Tungsten

Use a hardbody intake pipe or lower the air box.

A few years ago just when I got my truck, it had really bad alignment issues. I tried to fix some of that by taking it to a shop and asking them to fix it. One of the things they did was repair and replace these strut rod (tension rod) bushings. I noticed that I still have some minor caster issues even now. Those tension rod bushing assemblies came from the dealership so they are factory parts. They don't look like they fit quite right though and one is even missing a cup. Do I need to have these cups removed and replaced with bearing races instead? Driver Side Passenger Side I can get more photos if anyone wants that.

Let's start with the easy part... Is the bulb burned out? Then you may have to check if everything is plugged in.

Try resetting the ECU by pulling the battery cable. I am pretty sure that your ignition system is fine. Did you get a knock sensor in there? Do the fuel injectors work properly? Any more vacuum leaks? If your timing is always fully advanced you are just still not getting enough fuel in there.

Bolt and Nut combo

Alright here are some of my thoughts so far... I took my truck down some dirt roads, broken roads, and over speed bumps. So far everything works better than expected. One time I had to avoid an accident and ended up skidding and smashing my right tire into a curb. I thought I just broke everything as it didn't sound or feel very nice but everything was good as usual and the tie rods are still perfect. There you have it. If I could skid into a curb and survive, the system should be pretty good for some fun over off-road obstacles. I am now confident this will work great off-road as well as on the road. Happy wheeling!

Another bad part is I can't take the spade connector out of the little plastic tube connector without mangling it. Once the wire comes out, you have to get another connector. I will just put a plain female spade on and plug it in to the back of the ground switch.

I think all R50 players should be interchangeable. I doubt you can put a navigation one in a non-navigation model though.

What's wrong with your existing deck? Just keep that and spend your hard earned money elsewhere.

Well that's really annoying then. All my other ground connectors can be taken out just fine. The passenger side door one has zero slack.

That's interesting... Maybe it's a 91 thing?

Or you have a much better selection... http://www.crutchfield.com/m_266150/Car-Stereos-Components.html

It depends on if the unibody structure is mangled. If it's just all minor things you should fix the truck because you could be buying an even worse one.

I hate those stereos. BOSE is the worst audio equipment manufacturer. You are better off just getting an adepter and getting a real deck instead of that garbage.

I was just unhappy with any aftermarket solution and junkyard lines didn't really do it for me either. I just got new ones from Nissan and added a Magnefine filter on the return section. It came out great!

Mass Air Flow sensor had a hiccup. They do that.

The Toyota FJ cruiser sucks. It's so cheap and flimsy.

Alright thanks for the input. Glad to know it was not Nissan that screwed it up.

I just ran into a stupid problem. I tried replacing the door ground switch on the passenger side because the rubber boot was destroyed and couldn't get the switch out. I pulled it out just enough but still could not see the connector enough to actually unplug it. I thought something must have been holding it so I pulled harder and managed to rip the wire out of the connector. Of course it's not a big deal as I can just solder a spade connector on and connect it with the switch. The bad part is I would have to take some trim off to get to the wire. What I want to know is did Nissan make the passenger side door ground connector wire too short or did someone else screw this up?

If you can get the right fittings you can probably get your own lines made. The cheap lines are really cheap. I would not run them even if they did come with a life time warranty.

You don't need to replace the fuel pump. That fuel pump is plenty capable of handling up to 300 hp. The other thing you want to watch for if you want a Historic plate is NO HOOD SCOOPS. If they see a hood that was not factory, you are also disqualified.

x2 stick to what you already know and don't waste your time with newer models because they are really not much of an improvement

It's either a clogged fuel pump or the fuel injectors not working properly. The fuel injectors can fail from ethanol.

Why would that be a problem?

It might, looks like the mounts are correct. RockAuto shows them as 90A though so beware. You may as well just go with a Maxima one.