Tungsten

Was the engine warmed up (above C mark) when you were backing out?

If the core support is not smashed, you can get that to brand new shape in no time at all.

Mine is not welded. It's bolted in all factory locations, which are four bolts to the bottom of the frame and two bolts to the bumper mounts. It's hard to see from the surface rust, I know. The only shiny bolt that sticks out in the photo is from when I changed the bumper, I put the new mounts on all new stainless steel 1/2 inch bolts. Just some hardware I had around. Remember that the hitch is welded to a bracket and the bracket is bolted to the bottom of the frame with two bolts on each side. The bottom bolt on both of the bumper mounts attaches to the hitch while the upper two attach to the frame. On trucks without a hitch, the bottom bolt of the bumper mounts attaches to a non-hitch bracket on both sides. I don't know what happened to your hitch or why you think mine is welded but it was not changed a bit from the original design. I could easily go and unbolt the hitch right now if I wanted to.

I think you might be able to use flat hardbody mounts if you want to relocate the stock bumper but the ARB one definitely has to be modified to be in the right spot after the body lift.

Why? I haven't changed the way it is attached from the factory.

Oh ok... So there is a plug between the intake manifold and EGR valve? Keep playing with the TPS sensor, you should have good results soon.

How did you block the exhaust manifold?

If you notice on the WD22 Xterra, they completely eliminated the tension rod. I don't have the slightest idea why Nissan even put these things there in the first place.

That should be a direct bolt up.

I had some spongy braking with an aftermarket master cylinder even with the air bled out of the system. Switching to a Nissan master cylinder fixed that problem. I got it back again recently and I saw the fluid actually go down but it turns out that it was only air trapped in the system again. After filling the reservoir back up, it no longer appears to be going down except maybe a tiny bit with casual pad wear. Basically it's either air or a leak. Don't pump the pedal too much if it's spongy or you can end up doing more damage to the seals. Never depress the pedal all the way down during a bleeding procedure for that same reason. On an unrelated note, R50 pedals are always soft for no reason so you never know if the brakes are bad or not.

That tension rod bracket looks super sketchy.

If Nissan has not changed the design, there is an adjustment point below the vehicle where you can twist the jamnuts around and tighten up the cable. If not, there are star nuts behind dust caps on the rear drums that you can turn.

You can at least buy a few sets for cheap. Never would I repair a damaged rim. The bead will not ever seal properly again.

You might be onto something here. Maybe something like a rubber plug sandwiched in there? Also would be nice for the assembly to not required having to be welded in.

The only thing that I am concerned about is how will these absorb full frontal impact on the frame. I guess I will see what happens in testing.

The problem with cheap steelies is just that... They are cheap for a reason. Alloys are always better than steelies unless they are really poorly made alloys.

It's possible the threads stripped out from the plastic being old. I would definitely keep an eye on the wing if I had one.

Tie Rod Ends all the way. Screw that Heim crap.

I think Nissan didn't have them like that on WD21s because the pickups may have shared the same front headliner. Where are you going to slide the cover into on a standard cab?

Most likely just a crack in the cap or a glazed rotor.

Design Theories 1. One piece component unit The mid-pipe, catalytic converter, and muffler section is a one piece welded unit attached to the collector with a heavy duty flange. This eliminates alignment issues between flanges and reduces the amount of possible leaks. Everything is centered together. It also makes the install easier as everything just slides into place. 2. Detachable tail-pipe The tail pipe is attached to the muffler with a lap joint band clamp and sealed with copper RTV. This allows the system to be easily taken apart and removed from under the vehicle. 3. Hitch protected exhaust The exhaust system is protected from collision damage by the rear hitch. The other alternative is to route the pipe directly through the rear bumper like a school bus. 4. Corrosion resistant stainless steel The system was built out of run of the mill 304 SS to minimize corrosion. So far it outlived a typical parts store system. There is almost no corrosion on any of the pipes. 5. Hanger locations My hanger setup utilizes the factory hanger locations to make things easier. 6. Hanger fail-safe design Should the hangers rust and fail, the catalytic converter heat shield will support the entire system on the cross-member when it drops down about 1/4 inch. 7. Placement of oxygen sensor The oxygen sensor is placed as close to the collector as possible for the best reading possible. Of course Nissan sensors are heated so this is negligible. 8. Straight(ish) pipe The goal was to create a system that was as straight as possible with the fewest amount of bends. The theory behind this is that bends slow down the exhaust gas and that reduces the heat scavenging effect.