Tungsten

Just that this question was asked many times on many car forums and the general consensus is that it's not an issue to have them sit in a box for a few years. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=140045 http://daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10454 http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=1&f=66&t=1089071&nmt= http://boardreader.com/thread/Dayco_Timing_Belt_Age_Is_It_an_Issue_s6cX6lvq.html

OEM is always the best when it comes to Nissan ignition systems. The plugs you could be picky with as long as they are NGKs. I ran NGK V-power plugs which were great and are OEM but decided to switch to G-power plugs because they last a little longer for how much I drive.

Speaking of that, the one thing I do recommend doing is replacing the ribbed hose with a straight anti-heat coated metal pipe in about 2.5" diameter. Eliminating as much turbulence in the intake as possible could potentially make an improvement. Any turbulence in the intake is bad.

Timing belts generally have a longer shelf life than regular belts because they have some really good materials and are cross stitched for extra durability but with what Alkorahil is saying, the odds of you even buying a 5 year old timing belt are very little let alone a 15 year old one. On that note I have seen really old VG engines with timing belts in them that looked new and probably were never changed out. With that being said, changing them for good measure is not hard on a VG and yes newer belts are always better than older ones.

Terrano is the RHD version of the Pathfinder which is LHD. Terranos had a diesel option but Pathfinders did not or at least not that I know of. They are the same body and frame wise. Now Terrano II on the other hand is a pile of crap.

Nissan can do funny things in the wiring department. Just check all of the fuses in the box. Sometimes more than one will blow depending on what you do.

I like manual swaps. The only place I would prefer to have an automatic is off-road or if you like to tow things.

Underhood? No, I meant they are fine in a warehouse as opposed to staying under the hood because they see extreme temperature changes under the hood unlike in a climate controlled warehouse. I would trust 15 year old timing belts that are still in the box. They should not cause any issues as far as I see it. There Alkorahil just said it, they are still being made.

I really just try to explain things from a scientific point of view. Nothing personal at all. One way you could test for an intake restriction is using a vacuum gauge. Why spend all that money if your intake is fine anyway? I have seen vehicles with really terrible intakes though. A first generation Ford Explorer would be one of those vehicles that could benefit from a better intake. Nissan's VG30 Pathfinders on the other hand have really well designed intake systems. Believe me I have looked into a bigger intake system on these trucks but found no need for one. The most obvious reason why the intake is not that large is that the heads have very tiny ports in them with tiny valves. The tiny head ports promote high low end power from a little 3 liter engine.

It doesn't break or stretch or just prematurely wear out in general. I just wanted to try something different but an OEM Nissan belt is made with exactly the same quality so you can't go wrong with either.

The ram air could be interesting. It could increase air density at speed and cause you to go faster with a wide open throttle with no impact on fuel economy. Do you go past 85 mph? If you do that could be a benefit to you.

I put them cone side out just to give more bushing area on the metal. It doesn't really matter because they compress anyway once you tighten the washers against them.

To answer your question, there is no difference. The factory air box is not restrictive, even with the silencers on it. The only possible restriction in the entire system could be the MAF venturi and I don't think it is. I can prove it with a vacuum gauge. The only time these cone filters and larger MAF sensors do make a real difference is in a turbo application. The actual cone shape of the filter might cause the air to get sucked in more efficiently but that's really negligible and probably won't do anything because the runners take care of this already. You could have just used a Hardbody intake pipe which is angled exactly how you need it or build a platform for the airbox. The airbox, if you don't have anything missing, should take the air from inside the fender. Since you already set this up, I say just make a small thermal isolator and be done with it so you minimize the heat soak on hot days.

They are fine because they are not exposed to the extreme temperature differences you would normally see in an engine bay. Then there is the fact that they are not stressed by the cogs sitting in a box. If you want a newer belt, go with a Gates one. I run a Gates timing belt at the moment and it has been doing extremely well so far. Also, timing belts are actually made of much stronger materials than regular v-belts are.

Make sure you put an isolator around that filter because otherwise you will just be sucking in more hot underhood air. Then again it might even not make a difference because the intake is intentionally heated on these engines anyway.

You really don't want to mix any additives with ATF. That lucas stuff is mostly just good marketing. The ATF has plenty of detergents in it already and when you put in lucas stuff you are only modifying the original viscosity of the fluid.

Yeah it should take a while. This was a question for the OP. That's pretty much how you are supposed to charge the battery from dead. If the trickle charger charges it too quickly then the battery has gone bad.

You need to get some Iceland super jeep style flares on that.

If I had to guess I would say the main reason the price for batteries went up is transportation cost since fuel became that much more expensive over the last few years. Another factor could be supply and demand for the materials to make the batteries or even for the batteries themselves. Maybe the demand for materials has increased because of the amount of hybrid cars now. I never actually used Optima Yellow and would be surprised if it wasn't that great since AGMs are usually pretty damn good. One thing I do know is all the DieHard AGMs at my local Sears stores were gone like hot cakes within a year even at their price.

Yes, the timing should be at 15 BTDC for best results. How much fluid did you spill? If the transmission was not working when you removed the radiator, most of the fluid should still be inside the transmission. There is almost nothing inside the radiator when the engine is off and not turning the transmission. As long as you connected the lines back, you should be fine. Check the dip stick while the engine is running to see how much you need to add.

How long does it usually take to charge the battery from 10 volts with a 2 amp trickle charger?

Whatever fits. The cap side usually goes on the top so it doesn't collect any water. Therefore the shock body should be on the bottom. Mounting shocks upside down should not affect their performance but if rusting goodies get inside the shock body, your shock will not have a long life like it should.

I run one. The best part about them is that they are AGM. I refuse to run any other type of battery in my vehicles. AGM car battery > any other car battery The best benefit of AGM is that you will never have corrosion around the terminals again for as long as you own the vehicle. These batteries will probably outlast your vehicle too! It's an expensive investment but very well worth it in the long run if you care about your vehicle.

Only in America! In other countries the displacement is taxed.

13 lbs is just fine