Tungsten

Now they have to be even less creative.

Yes, it will most definitely run improperly if there is a leak before the oxygen sensor. You are better off unplugging the sensor and running the default mapping. I suppose you have the stock exhaust right?

You select them by the wattage and not by the color. Clear is the best "color" to choose. Just pick ones that are higher watts but make sure the filament orientation is the same.

I'm surprised that nobody also suggested a KA24 motor. It was factory equipment for these truck platforms on certain models.

I would stay away from any tinted bulbs because they are junk. Tinting the bulb does nothing but limit its output.

I have this crazy idea of sticking zinc wire along the frame. The chemistry makes sense so in theory it should work.

Theoretically it should have slightly more compression after shaving the heads. I don't know how much was shaved but that can impact the timing too.

Gates all the way. They have superior v-belts to Nissan's own Bando stuff.

Did you scrape off the strips from the window?

Yep that's it! Had a brain fart... Those damn logos are so identical it must have got mixed up in my head.

The fuse for the dash is called METER. There is also another one labelled ROOM LAMP. You would be surprised just how much stuff is wired through those. Take a look at both of those.

I have done repairs with a kit like that before (made by Permatex) on other cars. My tip is don't bother checking for continuity because the circuit loops around the gap. Instead take a note which ones fail to work and then go across with a magnifying glass and you will pick up all the tiny breaks. Then just tape off, clean surface, and apply. It will be good as new.

Yes it will physically fit into the hole but you will need to do some slight re-wiring and I think the voltage regulator is inside the ECU on the newer one instead of the top of the cluster. Going from a newer to an older should be easier than going from an older to a newer.

Well since this has gone way off-topic... XP is old but it will run fine if you have anything old to run it on but keep in mind that it will no longer be supported by Microsoft very soon. Avoid Vista like the plague and its billions of updates. 7 is Vista done right and is a pretty good upgrade to XP and it was made to run on netbooks provided that you have enough RAM and hard disk space. 8 is for touch screen devices. If you don't like Windows phone then forget 8. I have Windows versions spanning from first release 95 all the way to 8 and everything in between like NT4 and 2000. I have to admit that 7 is the best right now. Don't get me started on Macs. Mac users need to STFU about how great it is. There is not as much you can do with a Mac OS as you can with Windows. Then there is Linux. It works everywhere.

That's partially not true actually. Not when it comes to certain engines. I know the VG requires a really detergent heavy oil to not build sludge. I think Mr.510 recommended the use of Valvoline Maxlife to avoid sludge buildup.

That's actually a really fun idea. I'm going to try it.

I'm with Precise1 on that, timing belts should be bought only from Nissan. I did however replace my last one with a Gates belt and it had the same amount of teeth as there was on the Nissan one. I counted all the teeth to make sure that the belt was the same.

I'm not a Jeep fan but I must say the above post is a bit ignorant. The Wrangler has really changed over the years. They now ride pretty soft because of coil springs and long arm suspension. It's amazing how smooth they made solid axles ride. The new Wranglers are not any louder than a typical car. Maybe they are cold in the winter with the soft top but that's not a big deal when you have a decent heater. My only concern about Jeeps is Chrysler's terrible reputation for reliability when it comes to drive-train parts.

That's good enough. As long as it has enough additives in it to keep the engine from sludging it's as good as any API rated oil.

You don't need submersion in water for it to work. Zinc is sacrificial even in the presence of oxygen. Theoretically even welding some zinc wire along the frame rails should prevent the frame from rusting. Salt is only a catalyst to rust. The frame will still rust even in non salt belt states only much slower. The reaction with oxygen or water is what makes rust hence the name oxidizing.

Yeah where have the pics gone? I was interested in doing this mod but can't find the blue wire.

A simple hacksaw should work just fine. Do you have any pics of the current hackjob?

Makes me glad I oiled mine with chain oil. What's weird is that my passenger side one is failing but the drivers side is still in decent shape. I don't enter the vehicle from the passenger side.

Well apparently running rich can also produce a black smoke... It's going to have to run way rich to spit black though or possibly not have a catalytic converter. Bubbling in the overflow is unfortunately a sign of a bad head gasket.

You may have to take the timing belt cover off for this one and re-do the timing belt. I think you can get away with just removing the upper timing belt cover though. Take the distributor cap off and make sure the rotor points to the number 1 plug. Count the teeth between the marks on the cam sprockets. If all is well then there should be 40 teeth between the two cam sprocket punchmarks. If you remove the entire cover, there should be 43 between the crank and cam sprocket on the driver side. The pulley is separate from the balancer so there is 6 different ways to put it on. At TDC it should point to the first mark if properly installed.