Tungsten

There may have been more than one supplier or at some point in the 90s they may have updated the formula in the mold.

Bright? I think they are too dim. I even re-wired the map light to go on with the dome light.

Well that's kind of useless then...

I have the factory one and I have played around with aftermarket ones before too. What I don't like about the factory one is that they are cross hatched instead of tinted. The seals on them fail much quicker than aftermarket ones too. The only reason why the factory one does not leak is there are drain channels on both sides. Even if the seals start coming apart, the water can still go down into the drains. If your seals are fresh on the aftermarket ones, they will never leak. The aftermarket ones have cool covers so they don't need that bolt on headliner stuff and they have nice dark tint instead of that goofy net.

The aftermarket sun roofs are hands down better than factory ones. That one is the nicer aftermarket one.

That's still fine. I'm pretty sure I can stick some lighting fixture in there as long as the wiring is there. BTW How do they work? When are they supposed to light up?

You might still be able to get rubber mats from Nissan or your local wrecker.

No. WD21 rear control arms are fixed caster. The front suspension is IFS so this is not even related. You adjust the caster by shimming the upper control arms up front.

I mean it's not hard to do as you can see.

I'm leaning toward the electrical fans not providing enough air flow. You can also try ditching some of the plastic cover junk inside the engine bay.

In that case, it's a really good swap. I like it. The DEs have some really nice looking heads. You would also get the advantage of playing with variable timing along with some other goodies like coil on plug ignition. The only part that's kind of a detriment to the VG30DE is they have 1 less bolt per cylinder for the head than the VG30E. The VG30DE has 4 where the VG30E has 5. Then you might run into trouble of getting it to clear the narrow engine bay properly but it has been done before. Good luck with the swap.

Sure. It will be even better with H4 bulbs. Just use a different plug on the end. I just wanted to keep the factory headlight style. You will have to swap to the hardbody grille for H4 lights.

Sorry to burst your bubble but unless that motor is seriously modded, you cannot get 300 hp from just the DE alone. The stock output for a N/A DE is 222 hp and 198 ft/lbs of torque.

Dealer option most likely. That explains the rare sighting of the OEM tinted rear glass too.

Sometimes the coolant will separate and jelly will clog your radiator. You can either clean the radiator out or get a new one.

That's correct. A shock is the most efficient when it is directly perpendicular to the road. All axle shocks are a little bit of a compromise though. It really does work better when the shocks are slightly diagonal with an axle for flex reasons.

There might be more to this than it looks like then. Were they SE or LE? All 1994 and 1995 models I saw in the past that had tint had the tint all the way around with the exception of the front windows. All the 1990-1992 models had the goofy rear quarter only thing. I wouldn't doubt it though they had so many trim options and they all overlapped.

The rear window was still original when I got the truck and it was clear but had nasty scratches on it. I changed it myself with one from a junkyard but it had to be another clear one. No clean tinted windows to be found at that time in fact none had it but I know 95s had tinted rear windows. 1990-1992 had the goofy tint option. Just do a search for any of those years and you will be surprised that only the rear quarters are tinted and nothing else. Why? Because Nissan. Or it may have just been a coincedence. Anyone from the parts department know about this?

might be the hub in need of some grease

The trick is to buy some decent tint film and the right tools to put it on. Cheap tint just like cheap everything else is going to be garbage. I was just wondering if anyone knew the color code of the OEM tint or whatever they go by. Going to get it done is always an option but I like to try and do it myself. I have a window to practice on.

They are worth every penny if you want to run smog legal headers. The ones about to come in look like they are all ceramic coated too. The only issue I ran into with them is that they do not include a clamp in their kit for the cross over pipe slip joint. You can either weld them there or use a 2 inch lap joint band clamp with some sealant. The other thing is you will have to build your own 2.5" exhaust system to run these short tubes properly.

You might be able to add a turbo to that TD27 but if you want horsepower then the VG30E is the way to go.

Nope, my SE has the original quarter panel windows. They used to only tint the quarters for some strange reason.

I just replied to your question in another thread but here it goes again: No but it is a 2 into 1 muffler. A straight pipe will not work but a Y pipe will. At that point you might as well just get another muffler. Y pipes can get a little expensive to fabricate. Also, if you just want to run 2 straight pipes, you will lose all your low end torque and it will sound like a weed whacker.

Not really it's just a basic vane pump. You could get a rebuild kit and change the seals.