Tungsten

No, back pressure is bad. All that OEM junk only reduces horsepower and exhaust flow. OEM is made for optimal flow at low rpms. You want optimal flow for your target RPM range and not back pressure.

I want to do this but keep forgetting about it because the problem goes away in the summer. Then once the cold hits again I get reminded of the problem when it's too cold to fix.

Clutter reduction. I have my electric fan relay set up there on the passenger side. I measured the voltage drop and resistance and it was about 0.2v drop so it does not make a difference. The wiring gauge was good enough for me to mount the relays next to the airbox.

That's an interesting way to look at it. Is it possible to compare the inertia of an aftermarket 20 lbs flywheel to a OEM 23 lbs flywheel? In theory if the inertia is the same there should be no problem running either one. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/flywheel-energy-d_945.html

Actually in an exhaust you want to have zero back pressure. The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6. The system relies on a cross over pipe for scavenging. The firing from the left bank will scavenge the exhaust from the right bank and vice versa.

Is the 2825 an equivalent of W5W? It's the 5 watt euro bulb compared to US 194 which is 3.8 watts. I have no idea what the 168 is but I'm guessing it's 4.8 watts or so.

Awesome thanks for the close up and link to the calculator. Do you have a link where you bought this? I was looking into doing this mod but can't find a gauge I like.

Alright well if you really want to make your own there are a few guides on how to select the correct size tube. I hope you have access to a CNC bender too. Also, true dual exhaust on a VG30 motor sucks. You want to at least go through an X pipe. If you really want a challenge try making equal length headers that dump into equal length downpipes then go through an X pipe.

They are the same shock just a different name.

Agreed on using Mr.510s headers. The only problem with those is they do not pass smog. I know that he does not stock or inventory them so they are made as soon as he gets an order. Maybe he can put a bung in them for the EGR valve and then they will be street legal? Mr.510s headers are absolutely the best headers you can buy for your Nissan. The second best I would say are Doug Thorley units. They are smog legal too.

Here we go... This is just the low beams. No auxiliary lights or fog lights were used in this photo. Mind the dirty window...

If you are going to file an insurance claim with the shop's insurance, there will most likely be an adjuster on the way to see how much you should be compensated for. After that you can pull the fender off to inspect for any other damage.

I got a question for Alkorahil since he's in the service business. How much does it take to service a GT-R and how often do you have to do service on one? For example I heard it requires a transmission fluid replacement every 18,000 miles and it costs $2,000 to replace. I bet that brake rotor doesn't last too long either.

Yeah I wonder too... None of the headers I know of will require cutting the frame. The exhaust system after the Y-pipe may sometimes require some trimming of the left transmission cross-member mount. No big deal there. The only time it is probably needed to have to trim the frame if you are doing something like a turbo installation.

Doesn't look too bad. Pull the fender off after you get an insurance adjuster come look at it.

This is exactly how I found that you do not need a "cold air intake" on a VG30E truck. The intake vacuum at WOT is already >1 Hg. The factory intake is ideal.

I know it's one of those stupid Amazon picture fails. Never go by the picture on Amazon. Maybe I should submit a user image?

I am currently averaging 18.5 mpg with my VG30E on regular gas with the ethanol crap in it but everyone I talk to who has an R50 with the VQ35DE only averages something like 14 mpg. That's about as typical as a V8 truck.

Why not? There is no wind resistance on the dyno.

Also the ones in the ARB and Quadratec catalogs look like they may have changed the pattern. I would call ARB and find out about the lights. http://www.arb.com.au/products/vehicle-lighting-accessories/ipf-range-accessories/headlight-insert.php Here is the Amazon link to the older ones (which I'm running): http://www.amazon.com/ARB-820H-Replacement-Headlamp-Bulb/dp/B004LQCIR2/

Well I figured since ARB was willing to distribute IPFs they had to at least be reasonable. ARB typically tends to not sell stuff that sucks. You can get them from the Quadratec catalog or from Amazon. http://www.quadratec.com/products/97017_1600.htm http://www.arb.com.au/products/vehicle-lighting-accessories/ipf-range-accessories/

VQ wins for overall power hands down but the VG is a more suitable engine for cruising because it makes good torque where the gearing is for cruising. The VQ starts to become efficient at 2500 rpm where the VG starts to become efficient at about 1500 rpm. Since both trucks share the same transmission and final drive, they have the same gearing. The permanently locked front axle on the R50s could also contribute to the drop in MPGs. More displacement could also be a factor but the VQ is DOHC so it's embarrassing.

Both 65/55 and 65/35 are standards. Usually says on the box what they are. I would look at the pattern against the wall of those Hellas before buying. Maybe read some reviews too. The reason why I went with IPFs is from all the praise they got with the Jeep crowd.

Sealed beams work fine if they are the 65/55 DOT sealed beams. They have ones that are 65/35 and they are probably worse than the USDM factory halogen housings.

The auto parts industry just tends to suck in general. I would not be surprised if all the aftermarket fly wheels were actually 20 lbs. With that being said, Summit Racing has never let me down yet. Hopefully they do have your 23 lbs. fly wheel. If not you may have to call up a wrecker. That's the best place for OEM parts other than the dealership.