Tungsten

I had to make a wiring harness that took power from the dome light circuit. On the real deal, the power for the visors comes from the marker lamp circuit. You have to turn the parking lights on to use the light on the visors. I just wanted them to light up when open which made more sense to me.

I use it for passing on the highway. If I have to pass I just push the power switch and step on it. It's very effective although using the power mode vs turning off overdrive is really a moot point. The only difference is that the power mode lets me rev higher before up-shifting. In short it does work and it's especially fun if you have a custom exhaust set up. You will lose fuel faster than a top fuel dragster though.

Yep. Done with bulbs from superbrightleds.

Use the 2" band clamp. Just don't forget to add some sealant on the clamp before you put it on. The collector is made for a 2.5" exhaust pipe but the cross over is 2". I don't see anything wrong with that.

You bet. More cone surface area means more bass. They only come in ovals for space optimization and nothing else. Studio speakers are always round, never oval.

There are some units that have the big mirrors and lights in them. I picked up a set along with the map light at the junkyard and wired all that stuff in. Everything came out of a newer WD21.

lmao troll job indeed at least my mods are real and they actually work

Definitely a non-DOT light. Even has the headlight washers. If you want to do it that way then it's fine but will look really weird. You don't even really have to buy clear plastic headlights but just use the clear plastic lens. I think sourcing LHD E-code lights is going to be cheaper.

I don't question that a VG30E and even VG30i is an efficient motor. It's extremely efficient for the technology it was built on. It can make lots of power too. The only problem is that the physics don't add up here. You are hauling a 3800 lbs brick of a truck around on a small engine. You can't have 180 hp and get 30 mpg at the same time even on longer gears which would actually cause even more stress on the engine and have even longer acceleration times. Maybe longer gears allow for cruising at lower rpms when going faster but even the wind resistance is going to require more fuel. Also going with an X pipe is much better than true dual anyway as it will balance out the sides. Just talk to anyone who builds exhaust systems. Hey if you found a way to make a old WD21 get 30+ mpg don't hesitate to share as many details as you can.

Transmission fluid will generally last a while, especially the newer formulations. It might last even longer with a fluid cooler. I changed mine like 30,000 miles ago already and it's still like I just put it in. I have a cooler of course. I would give it another 20,000 miles before looking at it again. For automatic transmissions, generally the more power your engine makes, the sooner you have to change the fluid. A Nissan GT-R has an 18,000 mile transmission fluid interval that costs $2,000 just for the fluid.

The first link looks great. Extra bit of bass is just what it is needed in the doors. I also have one of those speaker brackets but could not do a retrofit because there is one thing missing. There is actually a cross member that mounts to the roof that holds one side of the bracket.

I actually wonder if it is possible to put round speakers in the door. More cone surface area is theoretically capable of producing more bass.

You lose high beam if you run 9007 in a 9004 housing. Even if you aim it down the beam pattern will be way off and improperly focused. Never run 9007 bulbs in a 9004 housing. Also, HID retrofit kits tend to be junk. They do not pass any kind of certification and don't have to. The best thing to do is to source a pair of E code genuine Nissan headlamps from a LHD country. I tried to but it ends up costing between $300 and $500 depending on where I buy from. On top of that I would worry about breaking them. The Hardbody conversion ended up costing under $200 for everything.

Are those balancing holes too? The OEM Nissan flywheel is better for sure.

The anti drain back valve design is different across filters. Some are better and some are worse. The BOSCH ones seems to be pretty good.

I ended up doing an IPF light conversion instead. It was cheaper and things are easier to replace if broken. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34786-running-ipf-820h-headlight-housings/

VDO gauges are awesome. FYI I know some stock WD21/D21 clusters are compatible with VDO inputs and outputs. Also, Summit Racing actually has a pretty good selection. I like this one:

I don't see anything wrong with that oil change interval. I would change it a little sooner but that should not cause any knocking. Maybe a power valve screw fell in?

How do you know you are pushing 190 hp?

I suspect that engine is running very lean. If it's not running lean then it's not getting enough intake or exhaust or both and in that case it runs on half the power. What kind of tires do you run?

That has to do more with the head design too. Stock VG30 heads are very restrictive for more low end power. Hence they produce optimal flow for low rpm operation. The only issue with the factory exhaust is that it is a little bit more restrictive than the heads. For low rpm operation this is not noticeable. You will however notice a small difference with an aftermarket exhaust during acceleration. In N/A form you do not make any power after about 5500 rpm and the torque peaks at about 3800 rpm. It's pointless to rev up to 8000 rpm. In fact at that engine speed, the lifters will float and the lubrication system no longer works properly. The red line is there for a reason. Also, I don't know how you are measuring but 32 mpg is impossible unless you are running dangerously lean.

No, back pressure is bad. All that OEM junk only reduces horsepower and exhaust flow. OEM is made for optimal flow at low rpms. You want optimal flow for your target RPM range and not back pressure.

I want to do this but keep forgetting about it because the problem goes away in the summer. Then once the cold hits again I get reminded of the problem when it's too cold to fix.

Clutter reduction. I have my electric fan relay set up there on the passenger side. I measured the voltage drop and resistance and it was about 0.2v drop so it does not make a difference. The wiring gauge was good enough for me to mount the relays next to the airbox.

That's an interesting way to look at it. Is it possible to compare the inertia of an aftermarket 20 lbs flywheel to a OEM 23 lbs flywheel? In theory if the inertia is the same there should be no problem running either one. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/flywheel-energy-d_945.html