Tungsten

Yes, my 91 is a 4 door and has the I-beam links too. They shouldn't be hard to find at a junkyard. Those round ones are really scrawny and bend way too easily. Damn bean counters at work again...

I run my B&M cooler inline with the factory cooler without any issues. It definitely helps in the cold weather to get the transmission up to operating temperature faster. Doesn't seem to have any negative effects during warm weather either.

In the USA, it is required in most states that you turn the fog lights on only with low beams. The fog lights are wired to only come on with low beams. So can you first make sure that both of the low beams are on before flipping the fog light switch to the ON position? With that being said, check the fuse at the battery. Then the switch itself could also be bad. Then make sure your bulbs have continuity through them. As in they are not popped or full of water. The relay is typically the last point of failure. I never had a relay go bad except for one time on a Toyota which was a solid state relay.

Looks like you are missing a fusible link there. Someone just rigged it up so the engine could start. The tach can fail at the cluster. You can try a different cluster or tightening up the screws in the back of yours.

If you can drive fast and the engine doesn't get hot until you stop then it usually means a bad fan clutch or e-fan not working. High temps even while driving usually mean a clogged radiator. For this reason you want to keep track of your coolant. I change mine every 2 years because it's cheaper than buying a new radiator. Coolant, over time, will break down from heat and form brown sludge and can even clog the radiator. Ever look at the bottom of an old overflow bottle? That crud could be sitting inside the tiny cores of the radiator. Water pump failures and thermostat failures can happen too. However, thermostats typically fail in the fully open position so you won't see any warm up. If one fails in the closed position you can overheat pretty quickly. Water pumps typically give a clear sign of failure as the bearing starts to make noise but its pumping function does not go away unless the impeller falls out. Air can also build up in the cooling system and make the cooling system less effective. You can try purging the system of air but typically they are self purging anyway after a few warm up cycles.

Thanks. It works great and best of all there are no extra sensors to install. I have been running around with this setup for a while now and had nothing but great results. The controller is extremely reliable and will never fail (just don't put it near water). Made in USA quality stuff. I am looking into adding a switch to the A/C wire so the high speed fan doesn't come on as often with the A/C on and adding a parallel charging harness to the alternator to avoid burning the stock wire out. I'm also looking for a better way to power the controller than just wiring the 12v and GND source to the stereo.

Nope some people think it's a 15 gal tank. Although 21 US gal is 17 UK gal. Something to make a note of.

21 gallons verified. I put 14 gallons of gas in last week and wasn't even near the E line on the gauge. It just had 1/4 tank left.

I don't know about the VQ powered trucks but the VG powered trucks can get up pretty high. Somewhere between 170 F and 205 F is perfectly normal. With my E-fan the temp stays at around 170 F even if it is 95 F out. Race motor VGs are run at 205 F and that makes a difference you can feel. I can swap the thermostat and program my fan controller to operate the motor at race temps but that's not very good for the hoses and in case of a fan failure there wouldn't be any cushion room for an emergency.

I recommend to avoid option 4 and keep the VG33E crankshaft because it's much stronger than a VG30E one and the VG33E oil pump flows better and you get a better filter placement.

Update: I slightly reinforced the fan shroud to the bottom lip here so it doesn't want to jump around or pop off. Also changed the location of the fuse for easier access and view.

Here you go: Now I took these with my phone so they are not exactly the best exposure and quality. The phone only picked up the most contrasted sections. It should give you a good indication over what area they light up the most though.

The VG seems to get better fuel economy numbers than the VQ in Pathfinders. The VG is also much simpler and easier to work on. On top of that the VG makes more low end power than a VQ. Probably from the head design differences. My WD21 feels a lot more responsive than a R50. It would lose to an R50 in a race but it feels easier to drive the WD21 around.

There really isn't much you can do with a VG motor because most of it already is as good as it can get. Here are some items I can suggest: Do a full exhaust system in 2.5" with headers to increase the flow at higher rpms. Install an electric fan to restore a little horsepower. Port the heads. (Nissan for some weird reason never finished the head castings so there are small steps left in the valve holes.) Swap to Euro or VG30E camshafts. Increase compression with flat top pistons or a turbocharger. (Some Xterras with a VG33E came supercharged.) Now I don't know of any flat top VG33E pistons being available but you can bore the 3.3 to a 3.4 and run VH45DE pistons but duplicate the VG30E valve reliefs in them. These mods should get you where you want to be.

It's wired to be switched at the hot side. The grounding is directly to the battery. I hooked them up exactly like 9004s just with different connectors. I know the H4 calls for a common +12v and 2 grounds but it will work as a 9004 too with a common ground and 2 +12v connections. The reason this works is that electricity will flow either way through a filament since there is no polarity.

True. Approvals are expensive. If you made a set like the Thorleys AND paid CARB a few thousand, they would be smog legal. I'm pretty sure they have their own rules on how they grant approvals. You can pay a bunch of money and have your approval denied too. Not disagreeing here just adding some info. No I see how that works now, MY1PATH already explained it in the other thread. I still think it makes no sense but I'm not going to argue with state law makers that think a gun made from lego bricks is an assault weapon. You can only buy the size that came originally equipped. So your only choices are 2" direct or 2" universal. The direct fit is made to fit directly into the OEM system. That's what it says on their website. I would go ahead and delete stuff now but the edit button doesn't work anymore. It's like one of those moments where everything makes sense but then there is one last piece that changes everything and makes me look like an idiot.

^ sorry for the thread jack but had to put this somewhere as there are people confused about muffler and catalytic converter size affecting emissions nevermind lets continue here I just came across the older thread http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32573-buying-a-new-magnaflow-cat/page-2

The only reason why Magnaflow sells bolt-on 2" flange cats is for the factory exhaust system. They are literally made to just drop right in and are not any different internally than their universal converters. You can get a CARB compliant universal cat in your size and weld on whatever flange size you need or just slip it over the pipe and weld it. That will pass inspection. If they were so anal about having a factory exhaust then they would not even let the headers through. The only reason the Thorleys have certification is that they have a EGR bung and they do not remove any catalytic converters out of the exhaust system since WD21s never came with manifold cats. I still have a hard time believing this CA compliance stuff. AFAIK the CARB certification is a must for a catalytic converter to be sold in CA but that's about it. There is still a possibility that I could be missing something. However I got the same numbers out of the machine running a 2.5" catalytic converter and a 2" catalytic converter.

H4 spec is 60/55 Newer bulb designs should be 65/55 9004s are 65/45 and halogen sealed beam is 65/35

Do you have a diagram of how you wired it up?

That's great. Higher wattage than 60 for high beam will be beneficial in some situations and you are still keeping the 55 low beam which is perfect.

You don't have to clean them because they are glass. They tend to stay looking fresh forever. There is no difference between premium grade light bulbs and regular light bulbs unless the new bulb has some different wattage rating. In fact I bet you will get more light if you stick a clear regular bulb in there. The dullness on one side is probably coming from one wire being longer to the battery than the other. What wiring gauge did you use for the relays?

The inlet and outlet size of the catalytic converter does not affect its emissions. I verified this myself. The cat has to be CARB certified for it to be legal in California. All a bolt in cat does is include the flanges. The primary collectors (after the smaller primary tubes) on the short tubes seem to be 2" and not 2.5" just like the down pipes and cross overs. The cross overs are also 2" so the lap joint band clamp should be 2" in diameter. The only size change I see is after the Y-pipe where it exits into a 2.5" pipe. FYI the short tubes were actually proven to perform better than the long tube variant on the VG30E. I have to dig that bit of information up again where I found it.

I love this mod but does it confuse the transmission computer?

Both down pipes are 2 inches so by them meeting at a Y-pipe and going into a 2.5 inch pipe actually does nothing. The 2 inch down pipes are still larger than what the factory cross over is. You can reduce the 2.5 outlet back down to 2.25 or even 2 with no problems if you use a special reducer. The reason why they went with a 2.5 outlet is that generally some of the best mufflers are actually 2.5 inches in and out. So you can run a 2.5 inch pipe from the collector back or smaller if you do a reducer so it doesn't just shoulder down.