Tungsten

You are going to have to do some surgery if you want to install a tire carrier on a non-equipped model. There is a bracket that goes inside and that doesn't go until you cut away some metal. If your truck never came with a tire carrier, it's probably better to just not use one unless you are good with cutting sheet metal or know someone. That being said, the exterior one is much better because it allows you to use a full-size spare. It's a great idea if you have a Limited Slip Differential because you don't need to put a big tire from the front on the back first in case you ever get a flat on the back. Other than the fact that the interior carriers are a bit goofy and can take up valuable space. Though if you really wanted to, you can have 2 spare tires. One inside the gap by the window and one on the carrier.

First time I see that gif and that looks like a win to me. Saw the shed thread a couple of times this week already and I have to say I built better couch pillow forts than that.

I can install them dry by hand and they turn just fine. I just like to plug them into a socket and an extension and rotate them in before torquing down with a ratchet. I do have a torque wrench but haven't had to use it yet. That thread is really difficult to strip out if you know what you're doing. It's not like a fine thread like on those tiny bolts. The spark bolts just turn too easy if they are over lubricated. The engine is pretty crowded in a small space so feel is everything. Anyway the main reason why many people get seized plugs (and maybe even bad threads) is that they leave plugs in for 80,000 to 100,000 miles. I change plugs at 30,000 mile intervals and have had no issues with that. These plugs aren't expensive and they do make enough of a difference in efficiency to justify replacing.

I don't put it on the thread because doing that makes the thread feel too easy to put in. When I would put it on the washer it would also make its way on the very top thread to avoid freezing at the top where its open to the elements. I stopped doing that just to see if there would be a problem after a while but they came out fine. Change the plugs every 3 to 4 years and they will never seize. Did you guys even read any of the thread before posting more stuff? Simon posted the picture of the special type of anti-seize you can use but I still don't do it or recommend doing it. No contradictions here.

Subscribe, I got more videos on the way. I'm going to do a 0-60 run with all the bolt on mods to see how it compares to a stock truck and some other fun stuff soon. My truck definitely feels awesome on the road now even with all the weight it has to lug around. The VG33E is a great mod but I am sticking with my VG30E for now because of financial issues at the moment. A turbo VG33E is in the works right now but I haven't built anything yet. It's going to have 450hp when completed. Somehow I don't think having that much power in a Pathfinder is a good idea but why the hell not. Anyway, if you have the resources to put a VG33E in it with VG30E cams or aftermarket cams then definitely do it. The only thing I would look into is also using flat top pistons as opposed to dished.

There are special kinds of anti-seize made exactly for plugs (that don't actually change the heat range) and I like all the input and no this thread is not stupid. You can ask plenty of people that have experience building engines and all of their opinions on anti-seize will vary. Like I said before though, I never had a problem not using anti-seize with this motor, the VG30E and NGK spark plugs. Other motors might be different. This is a Nissan Pathfinder forum and not a Ford whatever. Would I use anti-seize on VG30E plugs? Nope. Would I use it on an old iron head with autolite/champion plugs? Probably.

Did you guys figure out the exhaust yet? You can use Thorley primary tubes, just fab new downpipes with a custom Y-pipe to accommodate the different front suspension. Georgia doesn't have crazy smog regulations like California so you don't have to mix and match smog specific catalytic converters. I had a system like Precise1 did before but 2 years ago upgraded it to have 2.5" components from Y-pipe back because I wanted all the stuff to match in size. I just run a 2.5" Magnaflow cat and a 2.5" Flowmaster 50 Delta Flow now which sounds great and doesn't have problems passing NJ smog rules.

When replacing the spark plugs, a common mistake people make is use anti-seize on them. Rightly so they want to prevent the plugs from seizing inside the head. Maybe it is a good idea with crappy plugs and an old iron head but you should never do this with a VG30E motor and NGK plugs. Using anti-seize on spark plugs will do the following: Alters the tightening torque by up to 20% which may cause over-tightening (or breaking the spark bolt) Reduces electrical ground contact if the anti-seize is non-conductive or semi-conductive (reduced spark possible) Isolates more heat into the spark plug therefore causing the plug to increase the heat range above specification (can cause detonation/pre-ignition) Creates a big goopy mess when tightening The thing with NGK plugs is that they are already self-lubricating and corrosion resistant. They have to be installed dry. Never put anti-seize on them. I used to only coat the washer but as of recently found no need to even do that. Change those plugs once in a while and they will never seize up and you get great gas mileage. Remember to check the gap! Additional reading: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_5Points.pdf

Anyone like chess?

Yes, my 91 is a 4 door and has the I-beam links too. They shouldn't be hard to find at a junkyard. Those round ones are really scrawny and bend way too easily. Damn bean counters at work again...

I run my B&M cooler inline with the factory cooler without any issues. It definitely helps in the cold weather to get the transmission up to operating temperature faster. Doesn't seem to have any negative effects during warm weather either.

In the USA, it is required in most states that you turn the fog lights on only with low beams. The fog lights are wired to only come on with low beams. So can you first make sure that both of the low beams are on before flipping the fog light switch to the ON position? With that being said, check the fuse at the battery. Then the switch itself could also be bad. Then make sure your bulbs have continuity through them. As in they are not popped or full of water. The relay is typically the last point of failure. I never had a relay go bad except for one time on a Toyota which was a solid state relay.

Looks like you are missing a fusible link there. Someone just rigged it up so the engine could start. The tach can fail at the cluster. You can try a different cluster or tightening up the screws in the back of yours.

If you can drive fast and the engine doesn't get hot until you stop then it usually means a bad fan clutch or e-fan not working. High temps even while driving usually mean a clogged radiator. For this reason you want to keep track of your coolant. I change mine every 2 years because it's cheaper than buying a new radiator. Coolant, over time, will break down from heat and form brown sludge and can even clog the radiator. Ever look at the bottom of an old overflow bottle? That crud could be sitting inside the tiny cores of the radiator. Water pump failures and thermostat failures can happen too. However, thermostats typically fail in the fully open position so you won't see any warm up. If one fails in the closed position you can overheat pretty quickly. Water pumps typically give a clear sign of failure as the bearing starts to make noise but its pumping function does not go away unless the impeller falls out. Air can also build up in the cooling system and make the cooling system less effective. You can try purging the system of air but typically they are self purging anyway after a few warm up cycles.

Thanks. It works great and best of all there are no extra sensors to install. I have been running around with this setup for a while now and had nothing but great results. The controller is extremely reliable and will never fail (just don't put it near water). Made in USA quality stuff. I am looking into adding a switch to the A/C wire so the high speed fan doesn't come on as often with the A/C on and adding a parallel charging harness to the alternator to avoid burning the stock wire out. I'm also looking for a better way to power the controller than just wiring the 12v and GND source to the stereo.

Nope some people think it's a 15 gal tank. Although 21 US gal is 17 UK gal. Something to make a note of.

21 gallons verified. I put 14 gallons of gas in last week and wasn't even near the E line on the gauge. It just had 1/4 tank left.

I don't know about the VQ powered trucks but the VG powered trucks can get up pretty high. Somewhere between 170 F and 205 F is perfectly normal. With my E-fan the temp stays at around 170 F even if it is 95 F out. Race motor VGs are run at 205 F and that makes a difference you can feel. I can swap the thermostat and program my fan controller to operate the motor at race temps but that's not very good for the hoses and in case of a fan failure there wouldn't be any cushion room for an emergency.

I recommend to avoid option 4 and keep the VG33E crankshaft because it's much stronger than a VG30E one and the VG33E oil pump flows better and you get a better filter placement.

Update: I slightly reinforced the fan shroud to the bottom lip here so it doesn't want to jump around or pop off. Also changed the location of the fuse for easier access and view.

Here you go: Now I took these with my phone so they are not exactly the best exposure and quality. The phone only picked up the most contrasted sections. It should give you a good indication over what area they light up the most though.

Hopefully it's the one with the manual transmission because the automatics on those things tend to be terrible from what I heard. I would get an automatic transmission cooler if it is an automatic and pipe it in with the factory cooler or maybe even bypass the factory cooler.

The VG seems to get better fuel economy numbers than the VQ in Pathfinders. The VG is also much simpler and easier to work on. On top of that the VG makes more low end power than a VQ. Probably from the head design differences. My WD21 feels a lot more responsive than a R50. It would lose to an R50 in a race but it feels easier to drive the WD21 around.

Disregard that above post. They got it wrong. I asked around and here is what I found out: It's actually better to run the drop bracket on the frame side for street use because a drop bracket lowers the roll center. A riser on the axle side will increase the roll center and make the truck more flexy but tipsy. So if you run a drop bracket you will actually improve handling when the truck is lifted too.

Oh yeah here's a new bit of information right from that link too: As you can see those guys are even saying that you should not drop the frame side but raise the axle side. Therefore the adjustable length panhard would be an easier method. Of course you can always cut the rod in half and weld some extra tubing over. Ghetto but should work too.