Tungsten

I don't either but you know what's funny is the new U-joints and new brake lines completely eliminated it while driving. The noise isn't gone though. Looks like I got excited too early. It's still there but only when downshifting into 2nd and sending the engine to 4000 rpm when trying to engine brake. I could hear it come on and go away as the engine revs up to slow down. It's like shift to 2nd then rev then grind then it just goes away. It's crazy and now I'm afraid that it might be transmission related. Those clutch packs could be slipping and making that sound. Going to try and get a video tomorrow.

Ok I solved this problem. It was pretty interesting. I got it to a shop and they got it up on a lift and saw that some of the wheels were dragging more than others even after running the truck in 4WD for 5 minutes without applying the brakes. Surprisingly the driveshafts were perfectly in balance. So one of the mechanics asked me about the flex hoses and I just went out and got new ones made by Nichirin. Not everyone agreed with that theory in the shop but I asked them to do it anyway. Finally when I went there to get them replaced, after they changed them I went out to test it and what do you know the random occurring noise was no longer there. Basically I had slight brake drag on 2 of the 4 calipers from aging and possibly failing flex hoses. The other fun problem I noticed was that my tires started developing run out. The tires had a slight side to side shake on the lift when being run. From my online research it seems to be normal. It's not that bad where it's undriveable but it is just ever so slightly noticeable at some speeds.

4WD but I can completely disengage the front hubs and leave it in 2WD. The front driveshaft does not spin at all.

Busted rag joint most likely. Start inspecting the column where it connects at the firewall.

Yeah I'm just exploring all the possibilities now. I'm not ruling out input or output bearings either. The driveshaft doesn't have any lateral play in it but I'm going to give those bearings a second look again too. Another possible problem I saw on a Jeep forum was the rear control arm bushings having enough play in them to change the pinion angle. Also I'm going to try and make a video and look at the driveshaft in motion.

I can pop it into neutral when it's doing the noise and it instantly goes away. It doesn't change with RPMs either. I'm thinking it could be mount related too. Maybe the transmission or engine mount just slightly changes some angle enough under load for the shaft to vibrate.

How about the wiring going to the MAF sensor connector? In most cases the wiring is the issue and not the sensor itself. The rumor is that people don't remove the connector when they change the air filter so it ends up getting broken.

At times when driving at certain RPMs and speeds, I get some crazy sounds like tapping and wobbling heard from the drivetrain. Usually it happens when the engine is under heavy load like climbing a hill in overdrive or in third. The noise most often occurs around 40 mph at 2500 rpm and 60 mph at also the same rpm. If I throw it into neutral then the noise goes away. I have already replaced the U-joints and that has alleviated the problem but the sound is still there. With the new U-joints the noise no longer happens at certain speeds that it used to happen on but still happens on some like 40 mph. What could be the next step in diagnosing this? I am thinking about putting the truck on jack stands and just watching the driveshaft. Is it possible that a weight has fallen off the driveshaft and that is throwing it out of balance? I already checked for lateral play in the shaft and there wasn't any that I could notice. There is a little lash in the gears when in neutral but that's normal. Any input should help. Thanks.

No but you can also try unplugging the oxygen sensor and seeing if the problem goes away.

Fix the leak first and fill it up with coolant. Just remembered it could be that coolant temperature sensor causing the engine to run poorly.

I like it, that extra HP is just the right amount needed for a good time in a WD21. Are there any aftermarket flat 3.3 pistons available? If I'm not mistaken, you achieved higher compression by decking the block and shaving the heads right? Just by going to flat pistons on the 3.3 over the factory supplied dished ones, you could theoretically get to the same 10:1 CR. That is one reason people go to a VG34 style bores, the VH45 pistons are flat so no other geometrical modifications are needed aside from boring. Also I know you have a stick shifter but for automatic the lower RPM power band is nicer.

You can find one of those arm rest extensions if you look in a junkyard. I have added one and it's handy because you actually get a usable storage compartment. The only problem with that is it can kind of obstruct access to the hand brake.

At 250 miles, I still have 1/4 to go! That's with some pretty spirited driving too. Anyway... LCDs don't like cold weather and the solder can break but the mechanical odometers aren't problem proof either. My old one stopped working completely because a gear broke in half. I didn't know the electrical ones like to fail too. Go figure!

*POOF* I am now tempted to stuff a QX4 airbag inside an old non-functioning appliance and blow it up.

That's no BS, the cooling system works too good even with such a thin radiator. The only issue I ever had with it was a fan clutch that always got stuck at full speed. After changing to an e-fan with a digital controller, the problem went away.

How are your front suspension bushings holding up with front LSD? From what I've heard the bushings, especially the strut rod ones, will take a beating and need to be replaced a lot sooner.

Yes that seems about right on a OEM computer. N/A VG motors are really hard to juice power out of. The OEM 3.3 are dished to reduce the compression ratio after an increase in displacement from 3.0. If you don't want to do a turbo build, custom flat-top pistons will increase power through added compression. You can use VH45DE pistons, which is a Nissan V8 but that requires you to bore the 3.3 block to 3.4 effectively creating a VG34. Another thing you might want to look into is using forged rods.

You are going to have to do some surgery if you want to install a tire carrier on a non-equipped model. There is a bracket that goes inside and that doesn't go until you cut away some metal. If your truck never came with a tire carrier, it's probably better to just not use one unless you are good with cutting sheet metal or know someone. That being said, the exterior one is much better because it allows you to use a full-size spare. It's a great idea if you have a Limited Slip Differential because you don't need to put a big tire from the front on the back first in case you ever get a flat on the back. Other than the fact that the interior carriers are a bit goofy and can take up valuable space. Though if you really wanted to, you can have 2 spare tires. One inside the gap by the window and one on the carrier.

I can install them dry by hand and they turn just fine. I just like to plug them into a socket and an extension and rotate them in before torquing down with a ratchet. I do have a torque wrench but haven't had to use it yet. That thread is really difficult to strip out if you know what you're doing. It's not like a fine thread like on those tiny bolts. The spark bolts just turn too easy if they are over lubricated. The engine is pretty crowded in a small space so feel is everything. Anyway the main reason why many people get seized plugs (and maybe even bad threads) is that they leave plugs in for 80,000 to 100,000 miles. I change plugs at 30,000 mile intervals and have had no issues with that. These plugs aren't expensive and they do make enough of a difference in efficiency to justify replacing.

I don't put it on the thread because doing that makes the thread feel too easy to put in. When I would put it on the washer it would also make its way on the very top thread to avoid freezing at the top where its open to the elements. I stopped doing that just to see if there would be a problem after a while but they came out fine. Change the plugs every 3 to 4 years and they will never seize. Did you guys even read any of the thread before posting more stuff? Simon posted the picture of the special type of anti-seize you can use but I still don't do it or recommend doing it. No contradictions here.

Subscribe, I got more videos on the way. I'm going to do a 0-60 run with all the bolt on mods to see how it compares to a stock truck and some other fun stuff soon. My truck definitely feels awesome on the road now even with all the weight it has to lug around. The VG33E is a great mod but I am sticking with my VG30E for now because of financial issues at the moment. A turbo VG33E is in the works right now but I haven't built anything yet. It's going to have 450hp when completed. Somehow I don't think having that much power in a Pathfinder is a good idea but why the hell not. Anyway, if you have the resources to put a VG33E in it with VG30E cams or aftermarket cams then definitely do it. The only thing I would look into is also using flat top pistons as opposed to dished.

There are special kinds of anti-seize made exactly for plugs (that don't actually change the heat range) and I like all the input and no this thread is not stupid. You can ask plenty of people that have experience building engines and all of their opinions on anti-seize will vary. Like I said before though, I never had a problem not using anti-seize with this motor, the VG30E and NGK spark plugs. Other motors might be different. This is a Nissan Pathfinder forum and not a Ford whatever. Would I use anti-seize on VG30E plugs? Nope. Would I use it on an old iron head with autolite/champion plugs? Probably.

Did you guys figure out the exhaust yet? You can use Thorley primary tubes, just fab new downpipes with a custom Y-pipe to accommodate the different front suspension. Georgia doesn't have crazy smog regulations like California so you don't have to mix and match smog specific catalytic converters. I had a system like Precise1 did before but 2 years ago upgraded it to have 2.5" components from Y-pipe back because I wanted all the stuff to match in size. I just run a 2.5" Magnaflow cat and a 2.5" Flowmaster 50 Delta Flow now which sounds great and doesn't have problems passing NJ smog rules.

When replacing the spark plugs, a common mistake people make is use anti-seize on them. Rightly so they want to prevent the plugs from seizing inside the head. Maybe it is a good idea with crappy plugs and an old iron head but you should never do this with a VG30E motor and NGK plugs. Using anti-seize on spark plugs will do the following: Alters the tightening torque by up to 20% which may cause over-tightening (or breaking the spark bolt) Reduces electrical ground contact if the anti-seize is non-conductive or semi-conductive (reduced spark possible) Isolates more heat into the spark plug therefore causing the plug to increase the heat range above specification (can cause detonation/pre-ignition) Creates a big goopy mess when tightening The thing with NGK plugs is that they are already self-lubricating and corrosion resistant. They have to be installed dry. Never put anti-seize on them. I used to only coat the washer but as of recently found no need to even do that. Change those plugs once in a while and they will never seize up and you get great gas mileage. Remember to check the gap! Additional reading: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/DYK_5Points.pdf