unccpathfinder

that tells me the alternator isnt putting out b/c you should be getting something like 14V with the truck running

just have nothing better to do and crawl through the forums way too often. Heh thats a lie but I'm on my way to bed so i wanted to pass through to check on new threads... I don't think it is unrealistic. I think the degree may be higher than what actually may take place but then again it may not. I know what I should have which pretty much follows in line with what you mentioned above but like I said I haven't followed up on it yet. I know a guy that has ammunition for guns that he doesnt own "b/c as they close in and the battle commences you will need to pick up other weapons" The guy is an awesome guy and I don't think he's crazy b/c if the crap hits the fan he will be ready. Me i'm behind and I have the minimal resources to get by and believe i have the ability to and contacts to get by...i'm a white collared-blue collared man so I've got some smarts and some common sense where most of my friends are all blue collared so they will support me if I can bring something to the table...and I can rig about damn near anything to make it work so thats a big of what I have to offer. but yea I don't think you're nuts but there are some folks out there that may think you are and some that think that you aren't extreme enough. I think its a matter of you know you're thoughts and what you would want to do in a situation to make it. For me my family is all 2500 miles away and they should be able to do fine on their own...me i'm here by myself with nothing to support but myself so I can afford to a certain limit to be behind where I think I should be but if its worse and I don't make it then its darwinisim at its finest and it was my time to depart. But that better not happen until I get my truck up and running and back on some trails

I've had me a list of things to do for about 6 months now as far as food and what not is concerned...I have 2 places on the west coast that I can go and survive...and leaving the homestead won't be an option at his place...he has an arsenal as well as food and is working to be completely self sufficient outside of the "rest of the world" If I were back east it would be the same thing...that being said right now i'd be stuck...i've got only 1 box of shells and enough canned food for maybe a month by myself. My plan has been to stock up on non perishables and MREs and fresh water, which i typically have 15 gallons for my saltwater fishtank on hand unless its getting towards the end of the 2nd week and i've been slacking in refilling the jugs...I really need to get on schedule with all of that stuff but i'm just a slacker as usual

now that's not the attitude to have...I probably won't ever own a newer american make vehicle unless its a diesel truck or a 71 chevelle...would like to buy my 64 scout back if the guy hasnt destroyed it yet but it didnt hurt my feelings to let the trailduster or cj7 go... when you torqued the bearings down did you rotate the wheels several times in both directions...loosen the torque then retorque it? .025 is not a lot...I've never had problems except for my bearing issue above and you obviously don't have that going on...did you replace the races and they're seated all the way in? you did compare the old parts with then new parts prior to installation? Just wait until you go to do a timing belt or starter. you'll love life even more I can definitely say that I've watned to kick several engineers in the kahona's but I've done the same on some american makes i've worked on...they just usually have a lot more room good luck

hmm....I cant remember the exact order for the auto hubs but I thought you put the slined washer on and then the spring retainer and then the rest of the hub slid on but I cant remember off the top of my head...hopefully someone will chime in... are the bearings seating all the way in the races? b/c I know i had some issues with bearings before but they wouldnt even go over the spindle old bearing: new bearing: I doubt this helps but here is my warn manuals:

i don't know your mechanical abilities but the 1st one I did I thought it was like a 8 or 9...now as time has progressed and I've done about 8 or so TB swaps its a 1-2 for me your in an 88 so that's TBI i believe which makes it a lot easier in my opinion b/c I always loosen up rocker arms to keep the cams from turning over...you will need a harmonic balancer puller and I think that is about it as far as specialty tools. you'll want to do cam seals, the water pump and probably the tensioner. This is what happens when the belt breaks (i was lucky and only ate 3 valves): (the valve 2nd from the right is the only straight valve) Then you rebuild the top end and the timing belt job that was and 8-9 seems like that 2...its not difficult after you do it the 1st time and I mean if you've done any sort of rebuilding engines or anything like that then this should be a cakewalk One thing I can suggest is marking the crank before you pull the belt b/c almost every engine I've seen doesnt have the marking on the case for the crank pulley and then count teeth. There are some posts with the FSMs for the 1995 truck...go find it DL it and read the section in EM on replacing the timing belt. The procedure is pretty much the same on all VG engines from the 80s through the 2000s

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry384684

is the hissing only when you remove the gas cap b/c if so that's normal...now if you smell gas back there crawl undre and look for wet spots on the tank if you see some and they track up to the top of the tank pull the rear carpet and theres an access panel htat has 4 10mm screws pull those out and remove the panel and see if it's leaking around the fuel pump if not then you probably have some pinholes in your tank

i have one off of my 95 that i want to sell if your interested in buying it PM me...it wasnt making any noise or anything like and blew cold air until i stripped my truck

not a problem...it took me a while to find it but i found it...

FSM...check the pinned things in this section...its not a full FSM but its pretty good FSM is factory service manual i lied...its not pinned up there...its somewhere else....looking for it 1994 is gonna be about the closest you're going to get but its pretty much the same as your truck... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9692 you can also try ebay

the charge on the system is low/weak or non existent...its a safety thing to keep from burning up the comp or at least thats what happened on my 87...after we charged it it worked fine...

i think i paid $80 for mine but it has some damage to it...hmm this gives me the idea still of pulling a female tool from mine and making them...but the cost of materials would probably be crazy....but then again if the interest was there

that and check the tank itsself for pinholes...I know when i stripped that 94 it had pinholes that you couldnt see but i could smell the gas when i walked by and on a hot day you could see the gas seepage out of the tank on the side

the MPFI engines are bad about leaking around the fuel rails...tighten up those clams and that should fix it...i had to do it almost every winter on my 95

nevermind....no i dont...but the "double dare" rc is a lot like them

i donno if you can make it work but heres the one that ARB offers: http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/arb-snorkel-...27l-p-3846.html

thanks slick...I needed those PNs I used napa studs on my 87 and had no issues with them but the napa in cal city doesnt have studs big enough... hmm i want to say we used a wrench to break them loose and then some extensions with a swivel through the fenderwell but that was over 5 or 6 years ago...the last time i pulled any headers or exhaust the engine was out of the truck

yep it works in any gear...it just overides the clutch interlock...be warned if your in gear and you hit that guy and turn the key to position 4 you will roll in whatever direction the tranny is put in...i accidentally found out what that button did...was quite funny the 1st time I was like WTF i didnt hit the clutch yet and then remembered i pushed that guy 1st hand and sure enough history repeated itself when i tried it again

i'll let ya know when i go to bolt up my 95 bumper to my 87....but I think they should be the same mounting locations but there are some other cosmetic differecnes in the valences and what not

if you're tearing the heads all the way down...make sure u do valve seals and both cam seals...probably would want to replace or at least reseat the valves (lap them in)...for the head bolts you'll need a 10mm hex head socket to put on a 3/8 or 1/2" drive especially for retorquing them...i suggest a scotchbrite on a drill to remove the head gasket residue (don't use any metalic abrasive pad...thats bad for aluminum heads b/c it will impregnate it with that material and could cause problems)...replace all seals...do a water pump while your there...I cant remember if the 91 is MPFI or TBI...if its TBI the job is much easier...MPFI is a lil more work b/c the intake is awkward...hmm do a tstat and all hoses especially that one hose that tends to bust and then its a PITA to replace later (i havent had this happen but i think slick has a write up on this)...aside from the head bolts there are 2 cross sloted 10mm bolts that help hold the heads on...when you have all the head bolts out and it breaks loose and you cant get it off these are still in place...take them out before forcing it or you could have a bad day if you look further down in the past 2 weeks i have a quick youtube video on removing studs which if you installed a body lift or just jacked the truck up and removed the tire and fender liner you could probably do without doing a full top end rebuild...i assume you will burn the gas in the tank out and after that i would suggest a fuel filter replacement...you'll also probably want to take that manifold nad have it machined back to true since it will be warped or buy a set of pacesetters (i think they have the CA smog stamp... Where in CA are you...if youre close to 93505 I could possibly give you a hand if you need it finally and others will chime in...also someone will chime in about search...its a brute to use but with practice it gets better...glad to have ya around and hope ya get it all worked out

holy chit man...i thought me swapping out harnesses themselves was a lot of work...pulling the harnesses apart would be a PITA...I hated doing it just to get the price of copper a little higher when i sold my 87 harness for scrap...looks like your coming along nice cupholders

the FSM for a 2001 2wd fronty was pretty much the exact same as my 87 and 95 FSMs for the timing belt change (b/c they're pretty much the same installation) I always just put a socket on the crank bolt and turn it to get everything lined up after i have the TB cover off...one thing is to make sure the case has the mark for the crank...almost every single nissan truck i've seen doent have it marked on the case so line up the cam gears and mark the crank for insurance....then you can count teeth on the belts i used to know it off the top of my head but dont now other than that i'll suggest cam seals and a waterpump...my buddy was glad he bought the cam seals b/c 1 was starting to leak and the other not so much but we changed both

I've driven a 95 exploder, 95 blazer (jimmy), 95 pathy, ridden in several 94 and 95 cherokee's but the one cherokee was running on 32's 33's Explorer: def has low ground clearance and its roll moment is scary to me...i had to drive my friends like 60 miles b/c he caught a ride to a different town with some chick so i had to drive his truck to pick him up on the way back to clt from greenville...i didnt like the way it turned and its roll moment just bothered me...we did some wheeling and we both got stuck in the same hole he bent up his rear bumper and i only bumped my hitch...he hasnt had a whole lot of repairs out of it and is still driving it and has had it about the same amount of time i've had my pathy...his was also the EB edition blazer: my brother had one and it had anything and everything wrong with it and I never wheeled it but drove it a couple times and its steering was a lil tigheter than the pathy but I wasn't that impressed with it...maybe a lil more power but ehh not that much more...had several friends that had them in HS and they all had the same problem with the injectors going bad and somehow spraying fuel into the oil and thrashing the engines cherokee: I've wheeled with 2 and both were running larger tires than me the one jeep got stuck 2 times and I trucked through the holes no problem he then sent me through some nasty stuff that i thought i ripped the undercarriage off on and he avoided the hole b/c he had been stuck there before...I don't like the cherokee's but they are capable...one thing I have seen with my buddies is the unibody poses some problems if you have to make repairs 4runner: never wheeled with one, rode in one or anything so i can really evaluate that but they are pretty similar to the pathy's and i've actually liked the 4 runner body more than the pathy for a while but the pathy look grew on me. pathy: my 87 turn radius was awesome but my 95's bumpstops were adjusted for 31s and it SUCKED so i had to crank those in so i could turn better...no1 is going to argue about the power on the pathy but with 4lo it is very capable...really surprised they didnt gig the complex 4wd shifting but that tells me they didnt put it in 4lo for the hill climb... anywho I think they're all decently capable vehicles but i feel it was biased towards the domestics...I would take a 4runner/pathy over any of the other 3 any day

have someone hit the brakes and look at the base of the MC where it hits the booster...if you see fluid come out then yea your MC is on its way out...there is enough room to disconnect the MC from the BB and take a look back...I just removed the BB on my 95 i stripped without disconnecting the brake lines from the MC