unccpathfinder

OMFG i'm going to pour gas on this car and &^%*ing burn it to the ground... 4 hours...well hour 2 i realized that the manufacturer had crossthreaded a bleeder screw so it was sucking air (thanks vacuum pump for working then) well they won't refund b/c i obviously sheared the threads off...wtf ever $10 more for a new 1...so at this point before getting the solenoid off the brakes were getting much better...well i get the new one and get it on...getting rained on off and on this whole time well the &^%*ing vacuum pump works when it wants to and i cannot figure out what i do to it to make it work from time to time...i'm 4 hours into it and i'm going to grab lunch. a beer and go back through the desert and hit the mud holes... they can worry with this @!*% later...i've about had it

yep thats how i used to have to open my 87 all the time...had to do the lock and the handle all like that

WWW.PULLAPART.COM if you are close to Charlotte they have 11 on the yard and 1 of which that was dropped 2 days ago if not where abouts in NC are you and i may be able to help you out

so back on the east coast "oval stickers" are a pretty big thing. I typically like to pick them up in places I've wheeled...my 95 currently has OBX and CRP (not a wheeling place but a park my cousin went to and i think is funny b/c its almost CRAP". I like the small 1's I think their like 1.5" x 3" I have a URE sticker somewhere and since I've been to Calcio and Hollister Hills i'd like to pick some up for those places but I havent seen them out here htat much..below is a sample of what i'm talking about: so just curious if those exist for OHV parks out here b/c i havent seen them but i didnt really look too hard

well they found a leaky solenoid (wheel cylinder) and replaced both...the shoes are adjusted properly but by the time i got home they had been on it for about 2 hours and were frustrated...getting a vaccum pump tomorrow from their friend so hopefully this is finished..they wouldnt even let me help...but from the feel of it i'm pretty convinced its air in the lines

I thought that was only if the diaphragm got ripped...I know when i rebuild the top end of my 87 the tube leading to the EGR in the intake casting was completely packed full of carbon and theres no way anything was getting through there also for grins...check the + cable running from the battery to the starter...i had one chafe through...but on the 3rd time mine died and wouldnt refire the battery melted b/c it had fully arced to the frame...i doubt this is the problem but wouldnt hurt to check

its rear drums...yea i've been using the clear tube...what I don't know is if maybe the threads on the bleeders are letting some air in there... I was thinking that too but they seem to be adjusted pretty good but it wouldnt hurt to double check it esp since tonight if they don't have it worked out i'll check the solenoids and everything to make sure theres no leaks to be 100% sure

yep thats where it was on that 94 i stripped...right on the motor

fluid is pretty clean on all 4 wheels as I've bled through about a half of a big bottle of brake fluid...I'm going to stop at Autozone on the way home and see if htey have a vacuum pump i can get as a loaner and see if that helps out I would have continued to bleed it last night but they both have to get up at like 4am and it was already about 8 30 so they were ready to go to bed... they're going to try to rebleed it this afternoon before i get home from work so i guess we'll see what happens...if they're still workign on it when i get home I guess i'll continue to bleed b/c I alike think there's still air somewhere trapped

I get fluid out of every bleeder so i ruled out a clog There are no leaks that I have been able to find throughout the system Yea that's what I thought but I guess there's an option for ABS in this year so i double checked it on napaonline:

So my neighbor has a problem with her brakes they go to the floor...the 1st thing I did was bled the entire system b/c she replaced her shoes and this did not correct the problem....so I wasnt able to build up pressure with the vehicle running but off as normal they will stiffen up...I checked the MC and didnt see any leaking but we replaced it anyways b/c that was the only thing I could see is it had gone bad but wasnt leaking out of the weep hole yet... So last night we replaced that and bled them (i need to go back today and bleed them again b/c i think there is still some air) but the brakes do the same thing still with the exception of if you pump the pedal about 5-10 times while the car is running you now get some pressure but it will slowly go to the floor she has about 50% pad left on the pads up front and the rotors were replaced when the pads were (not turned)...they said the rear solenoids werent leaking (i'm going to verify tonight b/c i thought of that in the middle of the night last night) The car doesnt have ABS b/c i thought it may be the abs valve trapping air but from what she said and the napa guy said it doesnt have ABS and i couldnt find a valve for it I bench bled the MC the best I could but those crappy nipples never seat right but I'm pretty confident all the air is out of the MC not so sure all the air is out of the lines but pretty sure its close the booster is getting plenty of vacuum and I don't think it is leaking but have no way to verify Any suggestions would help b/c i feel bad that she got the new MC and right now its not looking like that was the problem but I don't know what else it could be Thanks

thats what i thought last night when i first opened the forum last night when i got home

its a primitive ABS...the solenoid is on the right side about halfway back tucked up against the frame rail

so did you find the leak?

I wont ever forget the girl when I was in HS was pulling into her spot and stood on the gas instead of the brake and NAILED the car in front of her... I've only had my truck backed into once and that was when my parents were getting ready to separate for the last time and my dad forgot that i parked behind him and instead of turning to miss me he pushed the pahty back 5' luckly he didnt bust the radiator but the evap got bent pretty good and i had to replace the corners, 1 headlight, bumper, and grill...the radiator support is still bent (i straightened what i could) and the valence never bolted back up straight...his sorry ass didnt even come to tell me..mom came and got me up at 6 am and i went out unbolted everything that was busted and duct taped the turn signals on and drove her to school that morning...I then worked the next couple of weekends at the JY to buy all the parts...my dad still owes me about $150 from that deal but i wont ever see that (its been 9 years) lucky for me i had one of the "POS" cars in HS since I went to a rich/snobby school and everyone has new trucks/cars after 2 years they figured out i knew how to work on cars and half ass what i was talking about and started trying to get me to help them work on their crap to which i pleasantly declined and told htem to get daddy to pay for it since he's already paid for everything else sorry about the thread jack... Look forward to hearing whats causing the leak and hope its an easy fix

eh most security tapes run on like 12 hr loops...you should have went and got them then and filed a police report then for a hit and run...now that you have left the scene and its a day later I doubt they'll do anything for you...someone stole the vents off of my truck at my work parking lot and i didnt notice until i got home and they got some guys walking through the parking lot but i was out of reach to see if they were the ones that took the vents...but they snatched crap off of 2 other nissans as well...all in the back 40 where i parked Side humor:

well if he hit it hard enough to move the CV then i'd be willing to bet you hvae bent UCA's and LCA's b/c the CV is pretty much fixed/retained by the hub which is attached to the spindle (which attaches to the UCA's and LCA"s) so if he hit the tire I odn't think it would move the CV's unless it moved other suspension components...i hope you filed a police report and have uninsured motorist coverage... another quick solution is to rotate the tires and weigh down the back... if not just a seal I'll have 2 differentials available soon...shipping would be crazy but we could probably work out something... hmm just a random thought...the front diff has a pretty cheap vent cap...mine falls out from time to time...check the vent i think its on the front right side of the diff...make sure its tight in the housing and not leaking from there...if it is then i suggest put it in 4wd and have someone drive it forward slowly to see if the CVs are turning...if they are then the hub probably on the side that is turning is not engaging

I was going to go with power steering leaking...i highly doubt an impact to the tire would break the FA...the weakest link should be the CV and that should break before the differential housing and I think an UCA/LCA would bend before that or a BJ break... mannn you 2wd that thing up to like 3-4" of snow on the roads unless your in the mountains and then that may get a lil more interesting... what does the fluid smell like...is it gear oil?

http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/forum/index.php?topic=119.0 2nd post...

I think if you go to NOAS and search frontier2k1 you'll find what you're looking for sorta... http://www.noas4x4club.com/forum/viewtopic...&highlight= I was actually thinking about that today...with the 2 door cut the back off and bring it in so it comes right behind the back seat so you could still ride 4 if you wanted and this would give you about 4' to make a bed and you could store all of your "loose" items back there in storage boxes orwhatever and if you rolled on the trail you don't have to worry about crap nailing you in the head

yes depending on the incline as mentioned above...i just dropped the tranny out of my 87 yesterday and had the Tbars off so she didnt leak until i started dropping it out and then i lost maybe a half a cup

yea just be careful holding it...b/c you can probably get a nice shock from the exposed contacts if your touching them... my 87 had all kinds of ignition problems after I did my 1st swap and ended up just running postion 4 off of a momentary bump switch so it still required the key to start it to get fuel and what not

pull the steering column...drill a hole in each of the shear studs that hold it on...use an easy out to get htose out and then it will pull off of the steering column and you can install the new one with new shear fasteners or bolts (but with regular bolts it makes it easier to steal the car if they get to taking the column off but don't think that would be a big issue)

hmm...if i recall this correctly...you can uninstall that piece and stick a flat tip in there and jump start the truck...that may be a good way to make sure its still working... I guess it also depends on how hard you turned it and if hte click was a click or a "snap" other than that i can't really assist...