unccpathfinder

good job and good luck...i will try to remember poking my head in to see if i can help...if you get really stuck and need help right then shoot me a PM and if i'm near the computer should get an email letting me know so i can get back to ay soon...after tues the internet time will probably be limited since i will be back home with family/friends and out and about most of the time

hmm yea you may have to pull the Tbars...I cant remember exactly... To get the TC off you need to pull the starter out and I think that plate that is between the engine/tranny and then use your socket wrench through the starter hole to unbolt the 4 bolts holding the TC to the engine

if its humid/rainy i noticed that the windows fogging up are just going to happen in pathy's. i kept a towel in my truck to wipe the front windshield and side windows as i was driving if it was raining out b/c they would fog up almost every 5 mins until i guess the temperature equalized between the glass and inside air temp. Do you have air coming out of the vents? change the selector around and if the air is only blowing from one location then the selector needs to be reattached if it changes to where you tell it to blow from..then uhh don't breathe so heavily . I know there are anti-fog wipes for scuba gear and don't know if they make a larger quantity type wipe but you may look into that and see if it helps

i havent played around too much with the headlights but i know for sure all of my lighting is/will be relayed and i will have plenty of light, legal or not when my truck is back running...i'll be able to light up the desert

you put your mtn dew between your legs...if you need 2 drinks you carry a passenger and they can handle up to 3....1 in each hand and 1 between their legs...just joking...but seriously the best cup holder i have had is my legs...if you spill it you know about it http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...older&st=40 wheelmanls1 had a good one for each side...or get the "cupholders" center console out of a 94 or 95 b/c it will bolt into an earlier wd21 but doesnt work so great for the big gulps

when i was upgrading to the 94 harness one of the headlight sockets was busted and the only thing the autoparts store had were some ricer sockets that were good up to "high temperatures" they were blue instead of black but still resembled some ASB plastics and i don't know if they were legit or not but i guess if you wanted to go to more "powerful" bulbs that may be a valid option...or just add some fogs or "driving" lights

yea...i've been getting rid of crap b.c. its getting close to moving time again and I always hold on to stuff b/c theres somone that will need it sometime and if i throw it away then they're going to need it or i'm going to need it and have to spend a lot more $ than what they should. ouch...yea i understand that completely...if I was closer I would offer some assistance but if it comes to that maybe there's someone in the area that could assist.

if it comes to that I have 2 complete sets of heads laying around (one being the rebuilt set and the other off of an 86 maxima) and well yep i have a set of pistons out as well

lucas worked for about a year or so in my 87 and then it started pissing fluid like crazy luckly i havent been driving it for 3 years and now the pump has ate it... never heard of motor oil

upper control arms

http://rapidshare.com/users/BZTM6R Password: pdftown.com itsallgood.gif Post this here and the Pinned one won't "blow" I have pulled the engine on a 94 and an 87 and have not been able to clear the oil pan over the front differential (i tried all different things and coudlnt get it) but I have heard of people being able to get it out without removing the diff...I was also not able to get it out without dropping the transmission all the way out but didn't try real hard b/c I needed to store all that in the garage anyways check that out...its the FSM and will give you the "nissan recommended procedure"

damn the compression check fire that bitch up...if you hit a valve you more than likely didnt hit 1 you hit at least 2 (being that 1 cylinder is exhausting when 1 is on the intake)...if it runs like ass and smells like raw fuel you some valves...no biggie go buy a gasket set and all new valves (dont want to take the risk of missing 1 bad one and having to buy a new gasket set and a valve spring compressor, lapping paste and valve lapping tool, torque wrench and a 10mm alan head socket I completely broke a timing belt doing like 50ish and bent 3 valves (1 of which was over looked initially and discovered to be bent later but luckly we replaced all of them)...rebuilding the top end was my 1st major experience with the supervision of one of my ex gf's fathers who told me yea i've done this lots of times before (no he had only done it once in kwajalene (sp) on a civic) and told me after the fact but now knowing what i know and only doing this job once I could do it again in my sleep and I would tell a buddy the same thing to make them less nervous...3 days total...1 tear down and wait for parts....2 pick up parts and had 1 wrong valve so rebuilt what we could and then the next day threw it all back together 2nd from the left is a straight valve the rest are bent #1 exhaust and intake and #3 exhaust (the one tagged in red is the #1 exhaust and was found after the fact to be bent ever so slightly) another good tell tell sign of which 1 hit is look at the piston...i bet theres a smiley there... But all that said hope its only 1 tooth and you're sailing good...if not don't let the job intimidate you especially if you or your friends are mechanically inclined and you can save a boatload of $ doing it yourself and start building your tool collection if that's what suits you. This job would have cost me probably close to 1k @ a shop and we got out right around $250-300 which I then got lectured b/c he wouldnt let me pay for anything and i made him take the $ from me but he was being a great person helping out a broke ass college kid like someone had done him back in the day

i have an OK older sony that I could probably ship to ya for like $25 for the time being the only thing is you probably want to bypass the factory amps (or at least in the 95 when i got it and the reason i yanked it b/c the beeps it makes through the amps damn near breaks the ear drums no matter how soft its turned) PM me if interested it was last tested/used about 2 months ago when diagnosing my neighbors silverado when it was found that his head unit has a ground loop so he upgraded to some crazy expensive radio after borrowing mine for a few weeks PM if interested and i can take pix or whatever

just for general information was my response to the PM. so i guess it helped some seeing that you got the panel off...

thats a good one...even with safety glasses things can still get into your eyes so the best procedure is prevention (using the safety glasses) and knowledge on how to treat something in your eye. One trick I learned from a sheetmetal guy while working on some airplanes on a project is how to get aluminum shavings out of your eye...the 1st no no is to to rub the eye (obviously but thats a lot of 1st reactions)...the next is to reduce blinking b/c blinking may cause it to scratch your eye the final was to hold the eye open and take a Q-tip and barely touch the chip...the burs will grab the cotton and pull it away from the eye (i once used a paper towel since we were out of Q-tips and the chip popped off the inside of my glasses and right in my eye another that I havent done and don't know if its actaully good practice but I've heard several people mention is if you get a ferrous chip in your eye to either take that method or use a magnet but i was always afraid of if it pulls it out at a different angle than it went in what would happen so I don't know if I would follow that one right off the bat...

left rear corner is where it should be (where all the control boxes are piled up opposite of the oil jugs). If you need one I will soon have 1 for sale being that I do not think I need 3 of these dudes in the garage...

i know i have heard of the drivers side switch panel going bad and its in series with the other windows so none will work without it...so it may be worth trying to replace that 1st...

thats true...nissan is pretty good about things only going back together one way which is a good thing as well that or if this is going to be a couple week (or in my case couple year) project so you don't forget what goes where or make a list of what youve dones so you don't go back through for the 4th or 5th time checking torque on bolts (although that may not be a bad thing in some places but in others its a waste of time)

i kept burning mine and then it became an ash deposit and i scrapped it out with a rag fairly easily

patience is key screw putting nuts and bolts in a baggie...as soon as the part is out put it back in the hole it came out of (wasn't trying to be rude just funny)...mark all of your connectors and fuel lines and coolant lines (i ususally use colored tape or a paint pen... PB blast all exhaust bolts over a day or so and I use an air impact wrench to keep from breaking them (contrary to belief this works better than torquing on it with a breaker bar I was skeptical at 1st but after not breaking any bolts i believed my mechanic buddy) if you're unlucky like me and do have to drop out the front diff get some assistance...its not good if it falls on you...especially if its just the pinky finger...that prompts a visit to the ER where you will receive the crappiest stitches you've ever seen but they will scrub it out with a fingernail brush and use GOJO after they numb it up and proceed to not give you a prescription for pain meds... BTW

haha no i don't make it a habit that was the day before getting my new tires so we did all 4 tires really good and there were some long standing ones and I dindt want to run the risk of screwing up a drum or shoes so we just dumped brake fluid in the driveway and topped it off as necessary throughout the day....now when I get my chevelle she will have line locks but i think i've got a good 10 years or so before that happens

hey even then the brakes we're disconnected leaking fluid on the driveway... b/c i didnt wanna wear on the shoes at all

ahh well didnt even think of that...good thing I dont have disks all the way around... but how do you wear that out...with the exception of driving with it on...

brake shoes are like $15-$20 at napa... so $40 in shoes (i think they come in 2's) if you need drums: they're like $75 a piece so if htey're doing shoes and drums and that includes labor then you're getting a pretty damn good deal...if not do the work yourself and if the drums are good then just do your shoes...its not too difficult if your mechanically inclined And a side note...the rear shoes arent just for the ebrake...so no i wouldnt recommend using trailer shoes...

I've got a complete intake off of an 87 if you interested I could sell it to ya at a pretty decent price and it should have everything on it...although I may not have the connector for the TPS if its on the main harness but if its on the engine harness i'll have it...you could shoot me a pic I can see if I have it. PM me if your interested in the full intake (i think the only thing missing may be a coolant temp sensor but i'm pretty sure its still there but not 100% sure)