unccpathfinder

just out of curiosity...has anyone run their pads to the bone...the bakc plate hitting the rotors without shims to see if the piston comes out of the caliper...i donno...i think there's more than just a "noise barrier" but thats just me being the skeptical engineer

not that it matters a whole lot but a body lift keeps the CG lower since your keeping the heavy components lower

these are glued/riveted on...the ones that I like to use have 4 tabs bent over and do not let the shim slide off of the pad backing I think if you dont use the shims you can load up the pads unevenly and cause other problems but i never really tried it

well i know i've talked in quite a few posts about cheap brake pads and the shims coming loose and hitting the hubs...well as I start to strip parts off of my 87 to fit 95 parts on I noticed it had the "cheap pads" and hten we did the brakes on my housemates 01 Fronty and his "cheap" brakes were worse than mine by a long shot...so here are the pictures so folks know what i've been talking about...the only problem is I forgot to snap a picture of the "nice" pads they werent top line or anything but they had the clips around the sides Caliper removed slipped shims: Fronty slipped shim : where it was hitting the hub...this one is not bad but you can see where it started to turn away the hub (little black line): Fronty shims off pads (notice his drivers sides were eating more at the hubs than the pass side): We got into a discussion about this and inspecting his new pads and i forgot to take pix of his hubs and the new pads but this will give folks an idea of what i've mentioned in other posts and maybe allow folks to keep a heads up on the pads they buy... heres a crappy picture i stole from ebay you can kinda see the clips on this pic: If this should be in the garage section MOD will you please move

This is what I got in a response from him...I just X'd out his dads company

YEA...IF YOU HIT THE BUSHING ITSELF YOU CAN "MUSHROOM" IT AND THAT MAKES FOR A BAD DAY... SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS WAS CADDING AND DIDNT EVEN NOTICE IT TILL I WAS DONE...

belts as everyone has said...i replaced all 3 dirve belts b4 driving to CA and by the time I got out here they had stretched (loosens them) so I went back and tightened them all up so they had the right deflections (dont have the fancy guage) but yea more than likely its a belt slipping under the initial cranking of the engine and then it'll grab (stops squealing)

uhh you should be able to pull the alignment tool out and put it back in freely (make sure it has some grease on it but not too much)...loosen up the clutch pack from the flywhee. then install the alignment tool and tighten the clutch pack bolts and the tool should now slide in and out freely if not tighten up the bolts slower and work the alignment tool as you tighten the bolts until they are to their final torque... On every clutch that i have done i have had a hard time getting the splines to align and then get the transmission to push all the way up to bolt it up...the worst was a camaro b/c i forgot to bleed off the pressure from the slave cylinder...the pathfinders isnt so bad but its better if you ahve a tranny jack and some friends to help get it aligned but it can be done by 1 person and some ingenuity

I've got a friend from HS that he and his dad go every year...I was supposed to meet them there this past year but i let the date slip and forgot to call him until the event was over...I"ll see how they get tickets b/c they're "general public" in my book even though he owns his own wholesale car lot which is rather small...but he did have one of the few GT500's for a while and just sold it not too long ago but I can see if he knows a way in but I doubt they'd sale their tickets b/c they've gone for the past 3 or 4 years now

dont have pix of my intl on the 2 dr but i mounted it where the old spare tire carrier was (on the inside) One thing you can do is take off some panels in the rear and possibly install it between the rear fender and the structure depending on in the amp is big enough to fit through one of the cutouts (the rear tail light access door or the taillight hole itself is probably the largest ones available...the only problem with this area is if you do any water crossings or live in a really moist place you may fry the amp b/c its not water tight... or maybe even the rear hatch but that would be a bitch to route the wires... you could possibly do it behind or in the glovebox I've also mounted it to the side of the box that the amp was in and figured if they wanted to steal it i'd rather them take the whole deal in one clean motion rather than destroy my truck trying to get it out Heres what i was talking about access holes when you remove the interior panels...I think you could squeeze an amp through ones of these guys...

unless an auto hub is stuck locked or someone forgot to unlock manual hubs and then the CV will spin most of my cases of shimmy have come from out of balance tires

pretty simple...The way I did this on Friday was... remove bolts from front axle jack up (i put the whole front end off the ground since i was doing both sides) and remove tires pull hubs remove retaining spring removed shock unbolt the upper ball joint and slid the CV out...you may have to turn the wheels to allow for the CV to come all the way out I also put a jack under that LCA so its not free hanging on the tie rods/LBJ and other components

yep...87 is all you need to run...now on my last trip out here i saw 86 and 88 which threw me for a loop so i ran the 88 being 400 or so miles still away from CA

I sorta have this problem with my 95 and have had it for a few years now (well 2 years it sat mostly) on cold mornings it idles hgiht (this is to warm it up) but sometimes at stoplights after its warmed up it'll idle at 2K and when you first punch the gas the idle will drop 200-300 RPM them pick itself back up I have had an CES (SES) light on periodically and I have pulled codes for "EGR Function" I have yet to check anything out...sorry that doesnt really help but i think its pretty much the same thing you're describing

search my username (i just sent mine to someone) and ithink there were several images there heres my image: 87 with AIV removed and MPFI engine in place (sorry its on the wrong side but you can see somewhat of the drivers side)...

yea i saw that thread a while back when you posted... thats right it was kyosho had the terrano and the double dare not tamiya... I have tried several times to snag a terrano (the last one i saw was NIP for over $600) i've seen used for well over $400

I bet as soon as you replace it...it'll blow the fuse again...Ryans 94 and my 95 always blew fuses as soon as the switch was thrown...I rewired the relay and the problems went away on Ryans (after I did the swap) So if you replace that fuse and it blows again I could recommend rewiring to avoid all the demons that exist in bad wiring...

fix it...and while your in there you may as well do the clutch/flywheel/pilot bushing and probably the rear cam seals...hell for $700 if you have the tools and the parts you could fly me there for a weekend and we could get it done... 700 sounds about right though b/c you have to drop the tranny out to fix it so its a good 8 or so hours of work if not a little more

Nice...I don't remember my login there but I'd love to get my hands on the CAD to complete a 2 dr and possibly throw in the fender bulges and fix up that front bumper if they would share... This should bring down the god awful price of the Double Dare and whatever the name for the pathy is that Tamiya put out some time back

I was the opposite...love the 2 drs but the dash was awful (i think it was mostly option to put more than a stereo in the dash) and my 87's interior was a not so great blue...one in one to his own

Yep...thats what i found out when I got to doing it...and i found out that the ECU won't work correctly without speed sensors and a bunch of other crap...i tried hacking up the old gages to get them to work and it was really close but i needed to extend the speedo cable about 4"s and then found out the ECU problem... If you want just the dash we could probably work something out for it b/c its hacked up pretty good for the mechanical speedo if you can figure out how to get the speedo cable to work

uhmm its about 2 hours north of LA (up 5/14) and an hour north of lancaster/palmdale on 14 Here was the thread I started some time ago...I can grab some pictures of the dash and I should be pulling the engine this weekend in preparation for my 4th engine swap http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0#entry351191

ohh theres a good bit of work...i'm still in the process of completing it..2 years and some change later... I chose the simple most direct route and didnt have all the pieces to the puzzle...I have those pieces and will be completing this ASAP...search 4x4parts in the engine swap thread for my post and then you can check the for sale section here b/c once i do complete this swap with my 95 I will have 90-95 % of the parts for someone else to complete it although the dash is a little rough... THe dash alone may be easier but I wanted the MPFI and gauges and to be unique...and 87 with the 95 goodies...but ive just had some bad luck with it all but I will get there...the next thought for me was like a 2000's fronty with the SC and its dash b/c most of the measurements are close enough bot the 87-93 box dash is pretty much a direct swap to the 94-95 round dash Teaser:

tranny and engine will more than likely be gone although I could probably throw in a transfer case...PM me here in a few weeks and see where i'm at as far as my living arrangements and stripping my 95...i'll pretty much strip and sale what i can off of my 95 (with the exceptions of what I need none of which will be the drive train except for maybe the rear end but I have an LSD rear and front matching axle that I could throw in so you would have all the primary components with the exception of a tranny (think its the same as the 4wd but check around here) and the TC (which i'll probably let go) you would have driveshafts and all of the front suspension and cross members (i think the only additional one is for the front axle) you may need CVs but I think I shoudl have a set of those available too...I guess let me know what that would be worth to ya and we could work on a price b/c i'd like to get some $ out of it and would like to see it go to someone to use rather than a scrap yard like the last pathfinder I stripped but it did get me $400 in scrap steel You're not too far away and it looks like it'd be about a 450 mile round trip from the center of Lompoc to where I'm at so that seems like a reasonable distance to trailer a chassis sorry I was rude earlier sometimes i need a good

Nah you have to get at least 20 posts or so under your belt before that kicks in. Where are you located? I may have a 4wd rolling chassis in the near future that you could use as a donor and probably let it go pretty cheap