unccpathfinder

sure you could convert it to a bulb...get a dremil and cut out the back side and rip the board out and probably all the LEDs and rig up something...i'd just replace it b/c the LEDs will go "forever" and are probably still good the board or wiring is probably the issue

the reason I say its not the winged pump is b/c the aluminum casting that goes around the crank would go higher than the idler pulley this image from the link k9 linked shows that break I was speaking of the lighter aluminum is the WP and the darker is the lower aluminm casting on the block My engine: IBT: That being said you could pull the crank and get the lower casting and I have the timing covers that you would have to swap to I searched all over for that water pump last night and have no clue where it went to

i don't think they're LEDs but I think its a sealed light and you have to replace that...grr was gonna go to bed...gonna go pull the 94 one off of my 87 hatch thats sitting in the garage yea its a sealed light...the batteyr in my garage is dead so i cant tell if its LED for sure but i pulled the rubber grommet off and there is a circuit board in there so i'll assume it could be LED but never really thought about it

yea...ok that looks like the maxima engine I used...can you snap a pic of the timing belt covers b/c they're very different from what I have with the "winged" water pump I just thought of this...the TB looks like it has a round tooth belt on so if thats true its a newer engine...someone please chime in about the round teeth belts and what years had the square teeth and when they went to round I'm not much help right now... I just did some checking the 2wd D21 WP has hte same part number from 86-95...i'm still going to place my bet on that...even the winged water pump should mount to the same holes b/c the block castings are the same...try to get a nissan pickup (D21) V6 water pump and it should work b/c I can't think of anything else it would be...the maxima pump had the same mounts as the d21 but the snout length was significantly longer on the D21 and was what i needed for my accessories to work

hmmm...going to go check the block i have on the shelf...it looks like to me someone was lazy with the last timing belt/wp change and put the wrong one on there...be back in a few

out of curiosity does this truck have an efan mod? b/c with my VG I couldnt use the car pump b/c the pulley/fan would foul on the timing belt cover...I look fwd to the pix later on

awesome...thanks guys...after the drive last night with no PS I want to go ahead and get that bad boy ready to go before I test out the 4wd this weekend

Thanks...yea not a primary concern and yea mine has 8 predrilled mounts total...looks like yours may have at least 16 and probably 20 total...I was going to up it to somewhere about 10-14...Thanks for the pix...what kind of fasteners are those? just pan head screws with pretty snap-on cover? or are they some form of stainless rivets

Alright did some searching and found that the PS fluid is ATF which makes sense b/c my 95 had red fluid and smelled like tranny fluid so I assume that is correct...my 87 had run lucas since I had it so that was not a good reference. So if ATF is correct for a 95 I can should use dextron 3 correct? Thanks

yea thats what I was curious about 88...I havent been able to test it yet but hopefully this weekend i'll get to see what happens

I just did this and 1st noticed that it seemed like the cables were going to be short for the mounts on the underside but then was able to pull them into location and then use the adjuster to adjust the brake and had to do no custom work

I think SteevO may have some over at ruggedrocksoffroad.com...I know at Calico he was talking to me about some...Great guy and pretty reasonable on prices and really reasonable on shipping and good communication

awesome document...thanks...We ran the test (before reading this but had some other stuff i found earlier posted above) we got a 111 hard code (nothing wrong) and the 214 continuous code so this weekend we're going to check connectors and start trying to narrow down the problem...I was reading somewhere that the OBDII reader will read these codes sometimes but maybe that was just luck...even though the nissan code read is easy the exploders was really easy all you need is a piece of wire as a jumper

i found the codes thanks tho

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl804i.htm sweet my buddy is a ford family he just sent me this after i started talking to him about it

DOH ...I didnt even think of that guys...they gave me the reader and showed me where the ports were to hookup and I just followed the on screen steps...that would explain A LOT...and i used that line the last inspection I had in NC when the guy told me i was going to fail my OBDII on my 95...he was royally confused and i was like dude its a 95 not a 95... Yea that was the 1st thing I told him to do and it went off for a few miles and came right back on... So anyone know how to get codes off the old exploder? I assume there is an OBD1 reader but i'm just curious as to how much that $ and if autozone or anyone would have one on the loan a tool or they can even pull the codes for you...or a way like with the nissan to read flashes on the ECU or SES light to pull codes?

WHAT pullapart should have tons of those out there... x2 i'd pull that plastic bumper off or rig it up and change out whatever lights are busted and go for it who cares if its not purty

its posted around here somewhere..i think its in the garage or general forums pinned yes it can be done but you need to find the donor at a JY...I really don't know what the advantage to 4w disk is other than if someone has upgraded their tires and it increases maintenance costs I believe there are also a few topics around that explain the process to do that

from what I gather from my swap you need to get the "gears and sensor from the TC and then you would need to swap out the dash or mod the dash to get the new cluster in and then figure out what are the same from the old gauges to the new ones and maybe rework some of the harensses...this would have been the route I could have taken if I didnt want to upfit to MPFI from TBI...get the FSMs for each one and look at the schematics and see what it'll take on paper and then get into it

Went over to my buddies place last night and his wifes 94 4.0L exploder has to be smogged next month and it has the SES light come on 2 weeks ago and they took it to a shop and he replaced a lot of stuff that got rid of the codes and charged them right at $400...well the light went off for maybe 5 miles and now it comes on and stays on after startup...I read and cleared codes each time and the light comes back on and no codes are read...They read them prior to me and got a 214 which can be a lot of things but don't understand why its throwing a light but not giving any codes Anyone with any experience on exploders and advice I'd gladly like to hear Thanks

there you go B...if I was back in NC that would be perfect for bait...and an onboard cooler so you could drain off the water...I'm liking the cooler idea tho...

really??i bet they had a maxima or altima pump in the D21 box...i t was about 2" short huh? sorry to hear that...i'll try to do some research tomorrow at work b/c i know i wnet through 3 water pumps to figure out which ones would work on my swap when i had that car engine in my truck

heh well good luck...its probably a good thing tho b/c i have no idea where that WP is right now...I know i did an 86 maxima swap and had to buy a 2wd water pump...i bought the maxima pump but it wouldnt work with the truck pulley system...so you may want to try an 86 truck 2wd water pump

that looks like a 2wd water pump...I have one thats brand new if you're interested it could be possible that someone also swapped in a maxima or altima engine so you can use the 2wd HB water pump the maxima/altima pump has a shorter snout

thats a good thought or even other storage...not sure what you could fit in that space but i'm sure some one could figure something out...maybe cut the bed out of the pathy build a "storage" box that is accessable from the cargo area...that'd be cool