unccpathfinder

auto or manual...also you can search WheelmanLS1...there is also the jeep cherokee console swap...if you do manual put a big gulp where you want it and i bet it doesnt pass the clearance test...

i paid $80 for mine i do believe...shipped...got a good seal, has a small stress crack and the paint is good on it...

don't even need molds...If I had 15 people tell me they wanted one and they'd pay like $200-$250 for them I'd start making them and could probably make the price cheaper but I havent checked the price of tooling cloth, resin, peel ply, consumables and glass etc...if I could pull a tool and send it to someone that would spray shreaded glass (like they do for fiberglass boats) that would probably be cheaper but who knows

yea sounds like a throwout bearing moaning/growling...my 95 did that for almost 2 years but only in the winter time and rarely when it was in gear...if its not doing it constantly I would wait until it was time to do the clutch to change it but if it gets too bad then go ahead and change it and do the clutch, RMS,pilot bushing and flywheel

blocks have all of the same machine work done to them you can swap out all of your accessories and engine mounts etc...not familiar with the engine so if its out of a car you'd have to swap the oil pan and relocate the dip stick too

yea...now I just had a thought...I doubt its the water pump...it will turn pretty much no matter what but would be making a lot of noise and leaking through the weep hole unless the belt that drives the WP broke

well if the tstat isnt opening then it wont circulate...start there...esp if there is no "heat"

for starters...pull the cowl covers off and clean out any debris that is in there...I would assume it is full of leaves and can fill up with water when it rains...once it fills up and doesnt drain it then probably comes in through the outside air panel if your RH drive i'm almost 100% this is going to be your problem...LH drive makes it a little more complex b/c the water would have to travel down the duct work and what not...if not maybe its been wrecked and there is a leak along the firewall

hmm I think I know which site you refer to...I was severely disappointed when they figured out that people could access the information for free...I enjoyed looking at all the brand new vehicles and flipping through the FSMs

I'm still just confused...nothing looks out of hte ordinary on that engine...its got to be a direct replacement OEM...if not that sucks ass...I guess this will be the only time you have to go through this b/c next time you will know what works...

try the 86 or 87

definitely square tooth belt and i pulled out the TB cover from that maxima engine and its exactly like that one I just didnt remember it being like that... so I'm still going with a 2wd HB V6 WP unless that has been tried but I really think that's what its gonna be...

already addicted looks like... Black smoke is generally rich...I have 3yr old gas in my 87 and it burns a like black esp if i rev up the engine... good luck and

yea same here...I just got up and it lookse like the TB cover was made like that b/c the lower aluminum casting in this picture looks like the raised section would sit in the notch on the cover... I've been kind of tunnel visioned and restricting the possible engines to 86-95...is it possible that its a VG33 or another VG and they did change the block casting for the WP mounting? I still highly doubt they would have changed the casting tho b/c there don't seem to be any major design flaws in the WP...the only flaw i've seen is the exhaust studs...

yea i was thinking it may be lifer tick or exhaust leak...

well like i said WheelmanLS1 had them in his cluster so thats where i got htem...the cluster is....1.2.3.4.5.6.10 screws to get out and I think you have to drop the steering wheel to its lower position...remove the 2 screws in the lower half of the dash on the drivers side...pull gently and remove...remove the 4 in the shroud around the cluster and the 4 in the cluster and hten maybe the 4 harness clips in the back of the cluster to pull it out...

behind the crank gear (lower most gear about 2" diameter) there is an aluminum casting that contains the front main seal...you could pull the crank gear and remove that and replace it with the casting that accepts the "winged" pump if that bolt pattern matches up to what you have (but the 2wd WP should have the same bolt pattern) then after doing that swap all you need is the new timing belt cover... which to me makes sense someone cut it b/c they were lazy and didnt want to pull the TB to change the WP and cut the TB cover... that being said i've never seen a nissan TB cover that was not a full circle on the bottom so either someone cut it or this is some VG engine i havent seen before (most likely out of a car) if thats the case that is almost as much fun as someone would have with my truck trying to figure out what years to order parts off of... So have you tried the 2wd pump yet? just get it bring it to the house see if the pattern is the same if it is...snug up 2 or 3 bolts and set all the TB covers in place and see if everything will fit back in...if not take it back... God I hope you're wife is more patient than any woman i've ever met...if not you've had one hellofa week

not sure what the solenoid is but here is the EGR on the center of the photo...right below the throttle cables...

here I took a pic tonight when I got home from the moose lodge and another test drive...the left side is just regular bulbs since 2 of the LEDs wouldnt work and that is the cluster is split between those gauges and the seepdo/tach and it looked bad with them mixed together so i just split it where the lights would be even...doesnt look too bad but i will make it all the same eventually other priorities right now...

if ground clearance is what you are looking for a susp or body lift won't get you any additional clearance...the increase in tire radius is what gives you more clearance...just thought i'd throw that out there...granted a susp lift will get the frame rails a lil higher but your low points (rear differential) will have the same clearance... and the control arm won't give you any additional lift but correct the BJ angle just thought i'd throw that out there for food for thought

yep...in fact I found I have 2 bad LEDs last night when trying to swap them into my gages...search WheelmanLS1 (this is where I got my LEDs) he did his cluster and I think he had a write-up on it...I'm not sure about the cab lights but i'm sure you could figure that out even if you had to go get a small breadboard from radioshack and build the board yourself

yea...i had a bad belt in an AT and they tried to tell me it was my freakin wheels but he refused to spin up the wheel alone...i made him swap the wheel with my spare wheel and it was still 8oz out and he tried to tell me 3 out of my 5 wheels were bent...I had my mudrovers swapped over at a different shop and didnt have them balalnce them and they don't "shake" at all

it'll still shake bad and I doubt they will be able to balance the tire...

87MT has 250K+ on it...has some minor syncro propblems but no noises currently my spare (doesnt like 1st to 2nd in cold weather) 95MT has 150K miles on it and has a lot more syncro problems and has a whine in it (doesnt like 1st sometimes and 4th on a quick shift) All gears work fine and I can shift without grinding b/c i learned how they like to be driven but if someone new gets in the truck I can guarantee they will grind 1st almost every time they try to put it in 1st...I also know the syncro's arent complete toast b/c I can still RPM shift without issues

heh must be willburn's (not sure if i spelled that right) i can tell it was a full front face plant b/c the front plate is dinged up but that rubber just popped back out....maybe the AC cond got busted but who needs that...i would be shocked if the radiator go busted...maybe the oil cooler busted if its not incorporated in the radiator but still a couple $100s and it should be road worthy