unccpathfinder

after my swap i realized my throttle cable assembly was hanging and sprayed it down with PB and worked it and now it idles back down...I kept trying to adjust the tension on the cable and it didnt matter and i realized the set screw wasnt returning to home so thats why i sprayed down the hinge and spring assembly....may want to check that while you're at it

woudlnt it be a 50.8mm lift? I didnt actually measure the blocks but I don't know how technical they would be...a forklift may work depending on how slow you can raise the forks some move too fast and are too jerky and I think could cause some damage quicker than using some form of lift

:cough: :cough: MT swap....

that bumper will be fun to relocate...probably going to need some custom made parts...I started putting my OEM bumper back on the other day and after about 2 mins of looking at it I decided right now its not really worth it...

yea...you need to pull the engine strip it down take it to a shop and probably get it taken to .030 over get new pistons/rings and replace all the bearings...pretty much rebuild the entire bottom end... Just out of curiosity is it burning oil (blowing blue smoke) or did it fail some other test like a compression or draw down test?

not so much the marks on the belt but more importantly the # of teeth between cam to cam and cam to crank glad to hear you didnt bend anything and only jumped a tooth or 2

If you need some help with the work. I have all of the tools to do the job and could assist you with it one weekend if you want to learn and we could discuss some compensation but I believe the entire job could be done in 1 day (esp if you just swapped heads) definitely in 2 and have a gasket set and all the correct parts. if this peaks your interest PM me. wish you could take that dizzy back and get your $500 back b/c that would be a big help

+1...if I were to ever sell my truck and they tried to line the belt and cam marks up it'd never happen b/c the white lines don't even go close to the cam/crank marks...I guess the only thing to verify is the arrow for fwds is facing fwd...

SUCKS about the Dizzy swap... I broke a TB in my 87...what you can do is pray you got lucky and change the timing belt and water pump and cam seals and crank it up and see if it runs on all 6...whatever damage has been done is done...this is what i did with mine after the tbelt break...i bent exhaust valves on #1 and #3 and the intake on #3 (or was it #1) But now just remembering you said you had low compression tells me you bent some valves...so pull the head and swap all of the valves and put a new Tbelt on her and you should be good to go...I have like 3 sets of heads that are good if you want to just swap out the heads so we could work out something there and i'm only like 3 hours or so north of you... me and one of my ex gf's dad did my truck in 3 days (1 day was b/c NAPA has the wrong valve in the right box) so we had to wait an additional day for the correct valve. One note is when you pull the head just inspect the piston for cracks if it doesnt have any then you should be good. I had 2 nice "dimples" where the valves kissed the piston but no cracks

if you do lift it and throw bigger tires and plan to do some offroading a locker or LSD may be very beneficial to assisting through some rough spots...

he SAS'd (solid axle swap) his rig...check the username...his truck is sick...he's running on 35's IIRC

if u break the plug (porcelain) before you remove the plug vacuum and blow out the area before completely removing it...and maybe even turn the engine over several times with the starter with no new plugs in to "clear" the cylinder...

yea i'm going black...i'll test just the balck on the plastic b/c the primer seems to stay nicely so maybe the paint alone will be more durable...if not then yea just keep spraying it when it bothers me...

well...im medorcerly impressed with this paint...hard impacts it chips to the primer but the primer doenst chip off (gonna do a test of paint to clean plastic...the scratch resistance sucks...same thing to primer so another test...but overalll if im careful its a great looking paint...and i know i cant expect it to be a mixed in epoxy type finish...more testing and updates to come

Measure the stock and add whatever height you're going to add...i also bet in the end its cheaper to buy the BL....go with ruggedrocksoffroad.com and the 3" lift and u'll be good...

I'm gonna check it when i get home from work...which i'm trying to duck out of here...like now but i have to tell my boss and he's gonna have some BS task for me to keep me here till 530

I cant remember if a 91 is a 2dr or a 4 dr...but everything from the front doors fwd will fit your truck the rear hatch will fit along with the rear glass. If they are both V6's the engines and tranny's will work in one another (the only thing is if the 92 is MPFI then you would have to swap intakes) Check out my 87 build its probably 50% 87 and 50% 95...everything green on it is 95 along with the interior. cant beat $100

I'm not familiar with the terrain south of me but I'd check the route you're going to drive...there;s a hellofa hill climb across the boarder in CA that may be a lil extra grunt on the ole truck. The rule of thumb that i've been brought up on was don't tow anything heavier than what you're driving unless the trailer has brakes. your call but I think you could tow a pathy with a pathy and a better solution may be a bolt on tow bar then you loose the weight of the trailer...just remove the driveshafts (i think putting the tcase in N would work too) and tow it with all 4 on the road...i'd just check what kind of elevations you've got to climb b/c I know on 40 its pretty intense but I'm sure it'd make it over... as far as the tranny go ahead and do the tranny cooler upgrade...

Well I went to Ace to get some of the krylon fusion but all they had was bright colors or white and I really wanted gray to try and color match the rear of the truck...well they didnt have any in black so i saw the rustoleum for the plastics and I read and they had the primer and the paint so I figured what the hell i'll spend $10...I used a piece of the gray interior off of the 95 that I cant use as a test subject and I sprayed the primer and let it cure for about an hour and a half (says 1 hr its good) so then i tried to scratch some off thinking it would flake off easily and it didnt so that was exciting. I then sprayed it with a semigloss black which is still tacky and I will have to wait until tomorrow to give it the impact test and the scratch test...I'll definitely report back but it looks damn good so far

Yep...Steve is on top of his game...I ordered my 3" BL and I knew in a few hours when it was shipping and as soon as he had the tracking # I knew about it. Can't wait to order my sliders

looks like your R light switch and Tcase light sensor

you may be able to separate it but I broke the glass on one trying to do that...

yep they're "glued" together...I think your best shot is to spray a cleaner in through the headlight hole let it soak and rinse it out...

yea thats how my 95 is...my 87 I think had a 10mm...so there you go...just pull it out