unccpathfinder

I usually rinse my frame after every wheeling trip and I use the side holes throughout the frame to rinse it out and there are holes in teh bottoms of my rails that I rinse until it runs clear and sometimes it takes a long time...Now I know that is different where they use lots of salts and other chemicals on the roads but would it not be possible to clean out the frame as good as you can then buy grommets to plug all the open holes and then at the back where the bumper mounts just weld a plate on the inside to close it off? and I'm sure nissan's aren't the only ones iwth rust issues, b/c I've seen some nasty cancer down at the beach Whats the difference in the HB frame and the pathy frame? my buddy has driven 3 different nissans on the beach over the past 40 years and usually the HB needed a new body before it needed a new frame...his older HB's would go tromping through salt water on a weekly basis and he never had frame issues...his "new" HB and frontier don't get wet but are down in the salt air all the time

ProComp Xtreme Rock Crawler Series 51 (heres a couple different tires on different trucks): I like these wheels...they're pretty easy to clean (when i clean them) and they've taken some abuse with the trails and would definitely go with a steel wheel over aluminum if you're going to be wheeling it...I think my cousins husband bought them at some point and time for like $55 a piece but they seem to be hard to find at that price...the cheapest i've found is $74 with shipping and taxes included.

Yep...that's a pretty good lick...so I'm guessing you were still running no doors? Honestly I don't think there is going to be much salvagable off of her...I would guarantee the engine is trash (if it still runs it will give up to the ghost very soon) the tranny may be ok but I would suspect some form of damage there too. Other than that I don't see that you will be able to sale much off of it unless you have a locker, crawler gears or some other upgrade. I have stripped 2 pathy's and I'm about to throw away the same parts that i threw away off of the 1st on on the 2nd one b/c no one really buys the stuff, unless you have another hookup to getting the stuff sold

Sorry to hear about the loss...glad you guys are mostly ok and hope you both get back to 100

that and check the + wire to the starter to make sure its not worn through and grounding out sucking all life out of the truck...I had that and it arced to the frame and melted my battery...that was some scary @!*%...esp since I ahd just driven 250 miles and still had 100 miles to go with snow/ice on the roads and it was getting dark...oh and a bitchy GF who was tired of being cold... Let me know what ECU it is...I have one out of my 87 I could sale for cheap but I don't really think its the ECU

interesting...I never bled a damper before...always just bled at the slave...never had problems...unless that's not on the 87 b/c i never bled the 95

Amen to that (and i am in the process of finding that steering wheel)

+1...well a couple spots on the body that some wax will get rid of but none on the frame my 95 had a solid frame but a lil rust under the rear seats but def not bad for as old as it was

Hmm...a front end collision where the floorboard comes caving in? that means she was doing some serious speed or she landed straight on top of something....I honestly don't see how any side collision would crush too far beyond the frame unless it was a vehicle that is higher than the pathy...I think they should do something like that with the pathy and whatever she drives now...Id bet she'd probably have been dead in whatever she drives now... I guess its a good thing that she had the 95 and not an 87 b/c when i stripped my 87 doors i realized there isnt any tubing for the "roll/impact cage" but in the 95 doors it's there when you do anything in life there is a risk that you must understand that is there and deal with it...and no matter how much it is tested/analyzed every load condition could never be examined...and theres also a big difference in a mini cooper running into you and concrete truck...some things just aren't going to save you in every incident but most are tailored to what's most common...I hate it when people make $ on stupid things

let me know if parts are needed as i mentioned previously...I know I have 2 headlights with the mounts

yep...you may have to change some brkts but I doubt it...I currently have a 95 dash in my 87 and the only thing I had to change was the halo's around the center console and the steering wheel support...but 86.5-93 should all be the same and as mentioned above make sure u change out vin tags... The gist of the work is: ~remove defog vents (don't forget the ones on the sides but no screws here) and screws ~remove A pillar trim ~remove all trim and screws ~remove lower sections of dash including glovebox area (more screws hiding behind here) ~remove the gauges and all of that stuff ~figure out a workaround for the ac stuff but I wouldnt try pulling the cables ~drop the steering wheel all the way down and remove the dash it's sad that i've done this so many times now that I can pretty much pull it out and put it back in, in probably an hour

I had one for sale a while back...it may have gotten chunked...I know i hacked one up to make a non power antenna work on my 95 fender if i come across it i'll let ya know

I wouldn't stress it...I used to be religious about my oil changes...god knows how much over the pathy is right now but I know my camry is about 1k over...again... it's not good practice and i usually try not to get it over 2k in either vehicle but I did do the pathy for a year every 6k miles b/c I was driving over 700 miles a week and it was all highway miles...at 3k the oil came out still pretty clear and at 6k it wasn't "burnt" but I don't recommend people to do it but there was no way i was changing my oil every 3 weeks

nice mod...I'd htought about trying to do one down the center but my head is way too close to the roof...this seems like it may be a valid solution

Hey...my 87 had the interlock and the descriptions above are correct...my 95 doesnt have it and that's the 1st "round dash" interlock I've seen...cool stuff...still debating on bypassing my clutch always or not...my truck stalled yest for the 1st time ever after i hit the clutch so the clutch was already in but i have a push button start so all i had to was quickly hit the start button and we were back underway...my passenger was LMAOing this happened right after talking about popping the clutch to start a vehicle...he was like why didnt you just let the clutch go and honestly i didnt think about it but we were in the middle of a turn and i had no power steering so getting it started the quickest way was my reaction Duck man its quite possible you don't have the "clutch interlock" as a safety feature over there...or it was bypassed at some point and time

body lift is a good choice for starters... 1 its cost effective 2 its better than a SL b/c you keep a lower CG since you are only lifting the weight of the body instead of all of the sprung weight (ie engine, tranny etc) the SL will work on the front end parts but I've been running mine for almost 6 months with a 3" SL and 3" BL and no issues...yet but I expect issues since everything is stock...this is why i carry trail spares Pay to play is probably the key statement i've read...if you're going to wheel it you're going to wear/break something...no matter what lift you have you will eventually do some damage as even with a BL and running bigger tires you're putting more stress on the driveline/powertrain than what was intended... So far I havent regretted anything and I probably wont ever SAS my rig but I do know that I will need to do upgrades/repairs so far from what i've experienced with my lift since i'm still running 31's that I could have done the BL and run 33's and gotten some longer travel shocks and possibly a lockrite and been able to navigate most things within reason hope that helps

hmm that's odd...the only almost fire i had was when my + cable rubbed through from the battery to the starter against the frame and did a lil arcing and melted the + post on the battery

I quickly skimmed the 1st post. was there visible damage to the pistons on 3 and 6? I broke a timing belt in my 87 a long time ago and bent valves in #1 and #3...We pulled the heads and replaced all the valves and did some clean up and new valve seals and it ran like a champ..the only damage to the pistons was a slight dimple in 2 places where the exhaust valves hit and it was unnoticeable where the intake valve. same with the front axle...try to not be under anything like that...I used pry bars all day to get the thing unjammed and the 1st time i grabbed it with my hand it came loose...I was lucky and it only landed on my pinky and at the knuckle joint...it was enough to break it and split it open to the bone and required an ER visit but it goes to show that even if you are careful you can never be careful enough

Kenwood is all I've ever owned which was passed down from my uncle (my 1st aftermarket radio he gave me) I have since only had to buy 1 more bc that one finally ate it after he used it about 4 years and i used it about 4 or so...my kenwood has been running now for like 5 or so and has been in both of my pathfinders. My cousin had an explode in the 95 running through the factory amps and the "beep" would damn near bust your ears b/c of the amps but my kenwood seems to do ok with it b/c i'm too lazy to bypass them but that will come in time

if a relay is bad it will either be on all the time or not at all so either the starter would go till the battery was dead or it wouldn't turn over at all...sounds like it could be an ignition problem like a wearing cap, rotor, plug, plugwire or coil and once it catches and the engine is (warm) the heat assists in easier combustion but that would just be a WAG (wild ass guess) and probably not the solution

nissan OEM clutch will take some abuse...even the OE replacement that the parts stores sale will...I'm rough on clutches/flywheels...the last one i changed I put 40k on and when i just parted that truck out it still looked almost new with the exception of a few hot spots on the flywheel. I think i've been the roughest on a clutch here as of lately b/c i've done a lot of 4-lo required offroading and now think I've stretched out the chain in the Tcase b/c something in the driveline slips bad on 4lo steep climbs but we'll keep at it till it breaks One thing i did notice in the 95 when i changed it from the original one (about 110k on it) was the replacement's spring wasnt as stiff so it was a "soft" pedal which was just like the one in my 87 but incredibly soft compared to what it was prior to the change, enough to make me worry about it until it drove fine

I can't remember how deep the threads are in the block but I would guess you could slap some sealant onto a 3 or 4 thread thick set screw (one of the alan head screws) then if the stud breaks again or vibrates out you won't spray all your coolant out...if it develops a leak then you can get it welded or try again but I'd bet the sealant will do the trick...i mean it keeps the thermostat housing from leaking and a bunch of other gaskets added comment to my youtube video just for you

I'll look at the members "experience/registration time" and that will determine if I do a search for them and post a link and my experiences...for me pulling the wire was the simplest solution What are you sorry for? if everyone knew everything about the problem at hand then there would be no need for a forum as you said Yep I give people suggestions all the time via PM nad when I PM them back to see if that fixed it I rarely get a response...its kinda like my job...if my design works perfectly I know b/c I never heard anything back...if it didn't work I hear all about it...

1. first check the hose between the 2 diaphrams on the EGR...it may be cracked and why its throwing the light...that was what my problem was but thought it was my exhaust leaks...i found it when i parted it out for my 87 and it hasnt thrown a light since 5. may be a sign of some of the above issues in the timing belt not on 100% correct...but these trucks will run forever...my 87 had something over 250k when I broke the engine (something fell in the cylinder when i changed the spark plugs)...and this is after breaking a timing belt and having to rebuild the top end after eating valves about 30K prior...after i didnt change the timing belt when i did the wp and the belt broke (i was like 18 and poor and didnt know any better)

Yes it would...that's why there would have to be improvements to the design...the whole "with changes of course"...China reverse engineers everything and gets away with it...hell they go as far as counterfeiting parts/products