unccpathfinder

I think you should disassemble and measure out the Rancho ones and then detail a drawing so they can be produced again with some changes of course...

Good luck...I have a seal puller and it broke the glass in my 95...when i pulled glass out of a 94 i used a set of guitar strings and it didnt break until it sat in storage here in hell and I guess the 120 deg outside temp made the heat inside the shed get hot enough to crack it before I got to replacing it...so i'm now at about 3 years on a really busted up front glass in my 87 I know that one for sure not sure about the HBs

you don't have to get the kit from AC...you can sawsall and drill the spot welds on an OEM truck or make your own...OR you can modify the OEM carrier and rear bumper to carry the carrier without going through the hassle of trying to install the brkts in places that you cant get to once the body leaves the assembly line... I got the top brkts out of my 95 wihtout too much fuss...the lower ones are staying there until I sawsall the rest of the body and I will then decide if I do the stock carrier or make my own...probably make my own

probably the hood switch for the alarm

napa's oil is valvoline rebadged in a blue bottle...and no it shouldnt matter but I only run Casterol 10W-30 but have had to use some quickstop oil before b/c i was out in the truck and it was way low

Alright it will consist of a lot of custom parts or fabrication but if you look at the 2005-current Calmini 5" lift for the frontiers you could make coil overs work...I checked it out at the Calmini display yesterday at the Badlands Adventure run at Hungry Valley yesterday and looks like a solution but I don't know how practical it would be to try and make htat kit work on your WD

sounds like my 87 when the wire was loose on the dizzy...it's flop around like crazy then work fine nad it was always random and happened whenever it wanted to...i clipped it and crimped on a new spade and it worked fine ever since...see what the others suggest b/c sometimes im off...

run dual coilovers and get the springs outside of the center of control arms...dont even know if that is possible or how hideous it would look but just a thought

I recall my PS brkt not lining up worth a crap either with the stock holes and just put one bolt in instead of the 2 on the frame but its not really going to go anywhere... For the drop bracket pull the radiator and then play with the brkt until it goes in b/c i'm going to imagine there is only way it goes in but I didnt use the drop down brkt and trimmed my shroud...I've taken it wheeling with temps of 108 outside and didnt get close to overheating so I think there is still enough cross flow through the radiator to call it good...i wasnt running ac (the truck doesnt have it) and yea i saw the bumper relocation brkts and tried to install the bumper by myself and said screw that and i'm still running with no bumper...hope to fab up a custom one before too long

safety hoop extensions for driveshaft, maybe a radiator relocation in the back the 1 with the 3 holes i believe is the PS line relocation brkt for the pass side frame...no clue what those other 2 are for with the studs b/c they werent in my kit and that rounded with 2 holes I believe is an extra part (no i have no idea it was in my kit and in hte box still) that one nut and bolt is for the PS line relocation the rest I guess you figured out but a idler arm brace, fuel tank and vent extensions, bumper relocation brkts (the 4 black ones), blocks, bolts and the rad reloc... there are no instrucitons that show what bolts go where they just say this "so and so" with this "screw" but yea i have a box of screws and some extra parts from the PA kit that I got from steeevo...search the how to and it should help out some...

see my 1st post I thought this was already done previously by someone...or maybe they did coilovers on a SAS rig...I know i've seen pix of coilovers on a WD but just don't remember where... EDIT: Now I remember its SteeevO's SAS that has coilovers... http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/blog/2008/12...xle-conversion/

put it in 4wd and crawl forward slowly nad have someone look at the CVs...if they're turning then the hub is bad...another test is to get all 4 wheels off the ground and go.. to see which CV is turning and which wheel isnt...so if you see a CV spinning and no 4x4 then that is the bad hub...we had htis issue up at hollister with SC88 and did a quick trail swap and he was good to go

wow that does drop them down quite a ways...that may not be so bad if you could make a new torsion bar that is about 2' long instead of 4'-5' so it could be tucked up a little closer to the front wheels and reducing a high center issue but I think the diameter would be significantly larger

I've never heard of this as an issue before...but then again I would never know if a seatbelt in the backseat of a car didnt work properly b/c I rarely ride in the back and if I do then no belt is worn (grew up that way and the laws changed and I never did)

i've got some snapon ones that are awesome...they were given to me long ago and honestly had no idea what they would be used for until I got my 95 and it clicked as soon as i tried to start pulling plug wires... they are mostly like this but mine doesnt have insulators on the tongs and they seem to be about 3" longer than these

that may be possible with a BL and a lot of custom parts...I can't think really clearly right now but see there may be an issue with the load transfers and the UCA would need to become a lot more rock solid...it'd be interesting to see a side by side of the toyota setup vs the nissan setup...I think other options like coil overs or a SAS are just as sound... that being said...I know you loose "ground clearance" with the TM lift but I havent actually examined it on a truck to see if where it drops the Tbars if it's actually that big of a disadvantage or not and what impacts it could have on approach and departure angles

I always just unbolt the CV...pop the hubs off...pull the snap rings and pull the UBJ and shock then pull the CV then put it all back together in reverse order...

i built an 86 maxima engine up for a 94 pathy...both were VG's to make it work in your truck you have to swap the oil pans, relocate the dipstick tube, swap intakes, swap mounting brackets for accessories and engine mounts, pilot bushings may be different so they need to be swapped...one thing to verify is the snout length on the front of the crank shaft... On my engine I didnt want to pull the crank gear and swap out the aluminum timing belt case so to get the correct water pump I had to get a 2wd D21 water pump. For the timing belt you need to verify what type of gears you have on the cams/crank if you get square but have round on your current engine I would suggest swapping them out so you have a longer interval between changing the timing belt... Pretty much all VG engines have the same block castings and the different applications use different mounts, pans and intakes

take a steel wire brush to some aluminum and then let it sit in a nasty environment...granted the aluminum still isn't rusting but it makes "rusty aluminum"

My newly adopted pup...he hasn't been in the pathy yet but very soon...only about 8-10 weeks old...mostly lab but has some collie in him his name is Beaux...Mr. Beaux Jangles (Bo'jangles) but added Mr to make it more proper and threw a lil cajun twist with Beaux but not as in beautiful as the french translation...if it were a chick it'da been Dixie added some more pix...

find a wrecked, bad frame or bad tranny WD21 with the VG30I or VG30E for a few $100's and search up my writeup on my MPFI 86.5 truck...a good bit of work involved but it was the easiest way I saw without having to try and fool the ECU and rework a bunch of harnesses out of all honesty tho a nissan engine isn't going to pump out a whole lot of power unless you were able to squeeze a Titan V8 in or figure out the fitment of the VG30DETT

http://www.thenewx.org/ for 2nd gen X's

yea they'll work for 2drs or 4drs...he's got some sweet mockup pix on his rig...I'm hoping to get them in the next few months...or make my own but really the price he has is great

yep it's called a garden hose...or some sort of hose...stick it down in the tank and give it a good ole suck and siphon the gas off... or pull the fule line at the engine and run 12V to the pump and let the pump pump it out

cuts and welds sound a little too easy...I was thinking a little more into it...you can have the truck tailgate latch by stealing the HB stock mounts/latches on each side but then you have to chop the pathy hatch and then figure out how to secure it to the tailgate as you ride down the road which may be as easy as a key latch to a loop but I dont think I would want the loop sticking out of the top of the tailgate...then it comes down to relocating all the mechanisms for the glass and latch and don't forget the bitch of it all is getting it to seal so the rear doesnt fill up with water when it rains...I think it'd be a cool project but don't let people talk you into thinking it would be a cakewalk... I would start by measuring the width of the pathy opening and then the width of the tailgate...i'll guess its almost exact but dont know for sure...also if you want to pay for shipping of a hatch from CA to you I've got one we could make a deal on but think that is probably out of the question...