unccpathfinder

find my post on a jerry rig for that...its your contacts have worn down... my cruise went...then my horn went...i started inspecting it and realized that the power for cruise and the horn are all powered through the horn contact...i put some spacer washers in for my quick and easy fix...it hasn't stopped working and its been over 2 years

you'll have to change out speedo sensors i think...but let someone else chime in...

my 87 and 95 MTs are like that...try to have the clutch in before pulling out of the gear and going into the next...I found that going towards 4th and then into 2nd keeps 2nd from grinding...if I quick shift i grind if I shift like I should its fine...just try different shifting styles until you find one that you and the truck like but it sounds like syncro's and my 87 did it for 9 years (still does but that tranny is in the garage now) and I never did a rebuild

that kinda sounds like a throwout bearing to me . both my 87 tranny and 95 tranny do that so that seems to be normal to me until it starts to pop out of gear (which it can do if you match the RPMs with the syncros and put pressure back on it towards N which is normal) sounds like a syncro starting to go...change your driving style a little bit..for mine I used to have it out of 3rd and on my way to 4th as the clutch was in...I found out that if i gave the clutch more time to engage and not rely on my syncro's it didnt grind but if I drag race off the line i'm going to grind what i started doing is clutch to the floor before grabbing out of 3rd to go to 4th and make sure its in 4th before releasing the clutch I don't think you have a bent fork...think you may have a throwout bearing starting to groan and some syncro's staring to wear but I don't think they will give up the ghost on you anytime soon...my 87 tranny has 275k on it and when i got it it had 192k and both 2nd and 4th had issues with grinding but i figured out how it liked to be driven and no more grinding unless i was driving it harder than normal in whihc case syncro's or not it was going into gear no matter how much noise it made...i know my 2nd gear to fix that i would go from 1st towards 1st and down into 2nd and that seemed to cure it and 2nd only ground in the cold temps I donno if the 01 tranny is the same as the 87-95 but i know the 2001 auto that i removed looked very similar to the 95 auto i removed

pull one out and get the right length from the parts store...but I can't reember off the top of my head...i used the studs but i think bolts will be fine

you have to read his auctions very carefully tho...sometimes he includes wiring kits and sometimes he doesnt...and a lot of times theres not a difference in the price but i did notice that last time i was looking at them...hopefully in the next 2 months i'll have a set of them... I really don't see getting Hellas, KCs or PIAA's b/c i'm going to break them and i'd rather buy 2-4 for the price of 1 and really if I want i can upgrade the bulbs but i think they'll be plenty good

yea but it kicks ass...I thought we were screwed on this project until i was introduced to the "woodpecker" and there were screw heads that were non existent and it got them out I don't think there has been a bolt on a pathy I couldnt break with a 1/2" drive and/or a breaker bar...i've broken some bolts before but haven't run into any that didnt break loose

yes I was...It was very nice up there...I helped my former co-worker move up to Livermore and it was only about 30 mins from Lafayette so I was able to kill 2 birds with 1 stone

I was thinking IACV actually...esp b/c it idles rough sometimes.... Yea that was my thought too and if it was a vac leak i would probably hear it and it would be a constant problem...

Alright os last weekend JoeBob and I were removing his Tbars and the drivers side jam nut and the other nut had ate the threads off of the anchor bolt where they were jammed and I guess allowed to spin causing it to shear some of the threads off...this cause both nuts to pretty much be stuck in place. not wanting to cut the bolt and convert all the potential energy into kinetic energy which I felt would ultimately result in death some how or another... so the solution we came up with was to remove 3 of the 4 Xmember bolts leaving the one to the far outside driverside in place. we put the jack under the passenger side prior to removing the bolts (even though i knew this Xmember wouldn't move without persuasion). we lowered the jack while letting the Xmember twist downards. once most of the tension seems to be off (probably about 10-15 degrees) go ahead and loosen up the front anchor plate so you don't bend the bar or break the anchor plate (we learned about that as we were dropping the Xmember out)...then you should be able to pull the remaining bolt and let the X member and Tbar come down where you can remove the Tbar from teh Xmember. JoeBob is going to have to cut the anchorbolt off and install the one that I have shipped him but at least we were able to get the bars out. If he was not removing a lift and didnt need to do any adjusting to ride height I think it could be reinstalled in the reverse process Figured I'd share...sorry we didnt take any pix

hmm...but it doesnt happen every time...it did it today for the 1st time in probably 3 drives on the highway...one day it did it like 4 times...I was gettin pissy with her that day PS both of my glove boxes have small scratches

So I have no codes or CEL light on but when I come off the highway my truck sometimes will die when i hit the clutch...usually in town if I come to a stop it wont kill out and will just drop to idle like it should but I've had it happen several times when I come off a highway or hit the clutch while doing 55+ the RPMS just drop straight to 0, truck dies and I either hit the push start or drop the clutch so I can have my power steering back I was thinking at 1st that the throttle body may be springing "closed" when i let go of the gas or possibly a vacuum problem. This sucks b/c I'm fixin to try and get it registered in CA finally and it doesnt give me a good feeling knowing it acts up and what may happen during smog...that and when i take it to DMV with no bumper, broken front glass, tires sticking out of the fenders and a federal MPFI in a cali TBI truck engine is 95 3.0 MPFI

drivers side i always have to use screws to "press off"...passenger side usually comes off PB, oil, grease are bad things to spray on brake parts unless you want to clean for a long time...

I have noticed that a lot of package deals like that skip sockets that arent used frequently so you instead of the 16mm you got the 17mm b/c youll use the 17mm more frequently (at least on nissans). I guess it saves them $ by not including certain sockets but give you what you'll most likely use i purchased 2 mechanics tool sets about 2 years apart and 1 had a 17mm wrench and the other didnt but had an 18mm wrench

I donno how legit this place is so i'd run a virus scan before trying to open: http://pdftown.com/Nissan-Frontier-1998-Service-Manual.html http://pdftown.com/Nissan-Pathfinder-1994-2004-Manual.html

hmm my 87 never had the bleeder there that "elbow" was solid...in your pic the bleeder is still lower than that hose going into the Tstat so air could still trap up top and I don't think the VG30E even has that hose:

"bring it on in and we'll check it out for you" Good luck man

yea I haven't had any negative effects yea with it being 98 do what Grim suggests and check it out. on the valvoline the "accpetable in GL5 or GL4 isnt in the main writing it was small print right under the bar code IIRC

show me where (and i'm not talking about the one on the radiator cap) usually its on the t-stat housing but ours is not the "highest" point for air to get trapped...i've never seen it so i'd like to see a pic...

read the bottle...some will say its ok with GL5 and some will say its not...I use valvoline and it says on the bottle it's fine with GL5 and I havent had any problems (other than what was already there in my 87 and 95 trannys) and I have put at least 120k miles between the both of them and havent had the syncro's get any worse over that time frame so i petition that it didn't negatively affect either tranny

i skipped all the posts after reading the first few...no i don't think you blew a head gasket or anythign like that...your coolant system is simply vapor locked so the WP doesn't circulate... my procedures: remove radiator cap and run engine until the water circulates or gets hot. Let it cool with the cap off. put cap on and run it until truck is at normal operating temps and leave the cap on and let it cool then top off the system and take it for a test drive to see if it overheats. If it doesnt then i'm good if it does I go back and repeat I really wish nissan would have included some bleeder screws like a lot of other cars do

yea its really easy to come out...a lot of people will recommend redline? make sure you put the correct quantity in and fill from the shifter... I've used the valvoline that is supposed to be GL4/5 compliant and haven't had any transmissions let go on me yet although both have some syncro issues but were like that before I got them. 1 tranny has 150k+ miles on it and the other has 275k+ miles on it and as far as i know they're both OEM

well what about a 2 door MPFI

it'll leak a lil bit...if you park it with the nose down hill it shouldnt leak...or remove the Tbars it shouldnt leak

I'd rather know my bearings are seated properly and spend the $6 on a tool that will allow me to do that b/c I'd really ahte to have a bearing seize up doing 70 on the highway or have it beat out the races and have to go through replacing the races/bearings when I would have to buy a race puller and then spend the $6 for the correct tool (or be ignorant and do it the way that got me in the messed up situation to begin with) plus the cost of the bearings/races...but each to their own...i'll take shortcuts but somethings I just don't think it's worth it and wheel bearings are one of them