unccpathfinder

All...some things came up yesterday and I didn't make it over there...ill try to go this Sunday after getting back into town

i'll reply with what their cost should be and then what its worth to me to pull it and ship it got it there are only 2 91's on the lot and i'm not sure if they're electric or cable but i'll check...SPEEDOMETER CABLE $5.38; say $12 ea with shipping COMPUTER ELECTRONIC MODULE $14.07 so say 23 shipped I'll figure shipping out but it shouldnt be more than $12 if i can fit it all in a flat rate box: WINDSHIELD WASHER BOTTLE W/MOTOR $7.78 say $10.00 (its chepaer to get the whole bottle than to pay for each separately shown below) WINDSHIELD WASHER-BOTTLE MOTOR $4.79 say $6.00 ea. SWITCH POWER WINDOW (MULTIPLE) $6.54 say $7.00 ANTENNA ( POWER) $9.81+1.02 core charge say $25 all the trucks have batteries pulled so there is no way to verify if it works TRANSMISSION AUTO W/CONVERTER $54.32 + $12.42 i'd pull it for u for like $200 and then u can figure out shipping

alright I'm gonna leave in about an hour and i'll check my phone while i'm there if any other requests come in...i'll try to reply with straight part costs if someone doesnt want to pay what their prices are sometimes the cashier calls it something other than what it is so it can be cheaper or more expensive...

Wds only

I went to the local u pull it last weekend and there were 4 4 door pathys...I know 2 had rear wings and roof racks...1 k know had a 3rd taillight...I saw 2 lego centre caps 1 front and one rear...I have no idea what's still there but if ure interested in parts let me know...post what u want and what u want to pay for it and ill get with u on shipping I remeber 1 subroof with no cover... Mods I put this here Forr visibility

GO for it and good luck...anything is possible and it's nice to see people doing custom work to their rigs...a lot of folks told me i could never get the 95 in my 87...not many folks would have done the work but that's what makes part of my rig unique...I've probably got over 500 hours turning wrenches on my truck if not more

I'm in my phone so a npora search is difficult so I googled and found it in 4x4parts.com...http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=527839&page=4&fpart=all&vc=1...I think the npora topic will have more content

i wouldnt replace...i'd repair depending on the damage...I'd get new valve seals, cam seals, and new valves...lap in the new valves and rebuild the heads and install them...I did it on my 87 and bent up 3 vlaves...replaced all of them and rebuilt the heads as mentioned (i've also posted this recently)...total job I think was somewhere along the lines of $300 including buying a torque wrench and valve spring compressor valve lapping kit top end rebuild gasket/seal kit, timing belt 12 valves and water pump took 3 days but 1 day was b/c one valve was in the wrong box

I never replaced them and never had any issues...some believe they're torque to yield but I haven't read that anywhere...

Read through my 95-87 swap...it'll give u good insight

Sure anything is possible...u will need a 90 driLl for sure

I want to do what nunya posted but haven't...been running no front bumper for a while now...

htat was before the harness...i 3 holes... 2 for mounting and 1 for a grommet...routed it through the D post or maybe that's the C post in our truck... and then i pulled out the LH tail light and then i pulled the connector apart and recrimped the wire to the same connector for the brake light hot and then just ran a short ground wire to a stud on the tailgate...you could easily just splice right into the wiring harness without pulling the connector apart but i'm funny like that to find the right wires i probed with a multimeter...

its off...replace it...replace the cam seals and timing belt while your in there...it'd suck to put a new gasket on and then find out its actually a bad water pump...better to be safe than sorry

not yet...it's on my list of things to do...I don't really like the way they mount up...I wheeled with a guy once that had one and the U bolts slipeed around and we had to relocate it on the trail b.c he couldnt turn the wheel to the left b.c it was hitting the frame

good stuff...yea it helped mine too but i still think i need to pull the IACV off and like you I don't want to pull the upper intake off so i've been putting it off for as long as possible

the 01 should be a VG so yes...but you're going to have a lot of issues to work through...you'll need the speed sensor, o2 sensors, cluster, any other control modules that may be in the harness and if u have an auto i would convert it to MT but you'll have to work around the brake and shifter interlocks...there's a lot of other things i'm probably missing... search my 95 to 87 swap...

pull a part in the southeast is the same way

not necessarily true...if theres not valve tap it's already bent them and they will no longer hit...after breakikng a TB and bending 3 valves I drove my truck on 4 cylinders before rebuilding the heads... I would assume that you have a pretty decent mechanical aptitude since you did the waterpump...rebuilding heads isnt a big deal...I'd go get a 10MM alan socket, torque wrecnh, top end engine rebuild kit and 12 new valves... you gotta pull the intake, valve covers, rockerslifters, then pull the head bolts and bolt that holds the head on after of course removing the exhaust...once you have the heads off you can inspect the pistons for cracks...I had 2 dimples from 2 of the valves and the 3rd valve barley kissed the piston and didnt leave a mark. you will need a valve spring compressor and a magnet to pull compress the springs and pull the retainer collars...once you have the old valves out you can serach for bent ones but i'd just replace them all...you'll need to get a valve lapper and lap the valves in and then you can remove and install new valve seals, the springs and valve retainers...while hte valves are out and the heads completely torn down i'd clean them up good before lapping in the new valves and assembling them...to clean off the old head gaskets don't use any metallic pads use a 3M abrasive pad...I've carefully used a razor blade to scrape some of the gasket off but you want to be extremely careful with the aluminum heads theres an FSM on here available somewhere...it gives you torque procedrues as well as assembly and disassembly instructions...find it and read it and use it as a reference...to locate the crankshaft pulley at TDC put cylinder #1 flush with the block before installing the passenger side head (i know most of the VG30 blocks are missing the timing alignment mark on the block) i used a punch to mark my engines that i've had apart and werent marked for future references. cylinder #1 is the fwd most on the passenger side...I hope that helps out some Top end "rebuild kit": bent valves (2nd from the right is a straight valve):

my 95 have that...i did wheel bearings which helped some but I eventually found out it was the tires...when i swapped out my BFG's for my mudrovers the shaking went away...now with the 33's i have on it i sometimes get the shake back...you may also want to look into TRE's and any other steering component bushings/joints

cool...i've got some tools here but my main box is still in CA...if u have access to a tranny jack that may be helpful if we cant get the tranny back far enough to get the engine out...maybe you'll have the 1st truck i've worked on that didnt require the front axle to be dropped out to get the engine out... just gimmie a buzz when it gets closer to time

I've talked about it but haven't done it yet...maybe in the next 5 years

we use all spicer u joints and flange joints at work...specificially SPL55, SPL70 and SPL100s...one thing to look at is their XS (no lube joints) i know those series are probably more extreme than what you would need and I didnt take the time to look up the 4 bolt flange U joint to see which would mate to the nissan rear axle but they're good...hell you could probably have them make you a full front and rear driveshaft...no clue what it'd run you but would be expensive none the less...I don't think its worth the upgrade tho b/c I've never really heard of nissan OEM driveline problems

check the EGR valve's rubber tubes...one may be "cracked" in half its hte short J tube...my 95 had it and i didnt find it until i did my swap...i would get some bad idles and then sometimes it would idle up at 1400 or so RPMs but don't second guess the IAC b/c i have an issue with that too but it tries to make my truck stall on cold days until it gets warm

i should be here...call me up...have no more than 2 more people besides u and me and we can get the engine out in about 2-3 hours if you have enough extensions, PB blaster, U joints and air would help out a lot...are you MT or AT?