unccpathfinder

just search my username...you can find my channel and some other stuff people have posted

contact Steve at rugged rocks offroad if you're truely interested in a SAS kit...His is close to being completed and tested...I'm patiently waiting for them to become available to be one of the first to test it...I would love to be able to get the diamond axle too but we will see I checked out the rear 4 link in MOAB and it was bad ass

The gfs 95 has a solinoid going bad...if it acts up 2-7 cycles of the key and it'll start so I'm pretty sure the solinoid is going bad

First...if the system lost a charge u can't recharge it properly without pulling a vacuum The compressor won't engage if the system is low so u could get it to come on by adding a can...the problem there is u r overcharging the system and basically start damaging components...I just went through this on the gfs 95 and after the first recharge the highsidr was running over 400psi which is super high determined it was a clogged drier so I replaced that and recharged and everything's good now.. Recharge is a deep draw vacuum and then filled wth 1.75 lbs of r134a

Liking the competition cut on the rear

a small screw and a beer top is how i fixed mine

I don't get why people need more spacers up top...when you crank the T-bars you need less spacers on the UCA to adjust camber...that said Slick...if you dont have any upgraded steering and i'm not talking idler arm brace...i'm talking chevy 1 ton, calmini or something other than oem I wouldnt run over a 33...i went from 33 12.50 to 33 10.50s...dont like skinnies but they're working alright for me with 35's you're going to destroy the front end if you crank the tbars...lesson learned from MOAB...cranking increases angles on TRE"s and causes easier bends (when traction is gained b/c i dont have that issue as frequently in mud or the granite rock here)...running 33 1250 R15's with 4-4.5" BSing and a panhard drop i rub the body/frame on the inside with full flex...i have installed 1.5" wheel spacers with my 8.50's and i dont seem to be bragging any frame or body front or rear (up front i am now b/c my t bars are at stock height with 33's to gain clearance either SAS or get rid of that trail master lift...personally i'd get rid of the TM lift all together b/c the way I wheel they would have been ripped off a long time ago...the jim conner racing bars had a 2.5" tall attachment on the trans Xmember and i broke it off on some pipes at Gulches making me go to calmini tbars...couldnt imagine dropping my tbars 4"....they'd be Eff'd

Yep have an arb locker in the rear of my h233...

that's what I thought but just wanted to verify You could get chromolly shafts for the H233B and prob run 37's and almost never have to worry about breaking it...I've seen countless D44 shafts snapped on 33's and 35s hopefully all goes well with Steve at rugged rocks offroad and he gets his diamond front axle done with chromolly's and that'll probably be the route I go...if not i'll probably run a D44 in the front of mine but keep my H233B in the rear guess which one is the D44 and which is the H233B?

So I've got to ask....u using this for a front axle to complete a SAS? If not and just a rear axle swap BC I seriously doubt a d44 is stronger than the h233b differential

I was thinking forced induction from the bottom side and the vents would be the exhaust side

A closer pic of his vents

i started frame rails in CATIA...i'll give you a big help if you can get .pdf's of parts...aide pdf to dxf converter...

sick...congrats man...that was next on my list of mods....guess now i gotta try to do a titan V8...def would be interested in complete details via PM or email if you're down for it these hood vents may be perfect for you... (Penski61 or just Penski) on Rugged Rocks Offroad

yea thats what i did... but you just need to get the correct rear bolts from someone like mcmaster-carr and you don't have to do any cutting...Steeevo (or Steve) from Rugged Rocks Offroad is working on getting Performance Accessories to get a kit together that has the right bolts. Hit him up and see if he can help at all.

yea sounds like timing is off...or you did what i did nad swapped 2 plugs and are running off of 4 cylinders...

5 crager soft 8s shipped to my door for 250$ I donno about r50s but Chevy wheels wont fit a wd21 if its 4x4 BC of the centerbore

I've had problems with inner diameters on wheel bearings and I'd assume timken makes a good bit of rebadged bearings

Yea...I've driven to and from CA twice already so shouldn't be awful...my buddy hasn't ever driven that far so hopefully he can do at least 15hrs/day

That's a big 10-4...driving my pathy w a trailer and my buddy with His a rubicon is following...he's dragging the trailer back...a fun filled week in moab is in order

Yea he's a sponsor...looking forward to wheeling with him again....its been prob 2.5 years...seeing the new suspension and checking out all the other rigs

wanted to see who on the forums here is making it to GONE Moab X. I'll be there...who else?

....no high lift...no full size spare...coworkers saab jack and 4 way...did have 4 of my "drive to moab tires in the back" so both rears swapped in the starbucks parking lot in 30 mins...i was doing 75 and heard lugs flying off and next thing i know POOF smoke and a flat...limped 1/2 mile doing about 55 to get off the highway stopped and saw she had a big ole hole in it and drove about 1/8th a mile to the starbucks so we could be on solid ground to use the shaky saab jack... i believe this is from a broken belt received by the razor blade picked up in alabama on my X country drive about 10k miles ago

And hell b I don't even think they they need a patch...I could weld that up with no added material