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Everything posted by unccpathfinder
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How do you say them and where r u located/from
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The PS pump didn't move BC there is a bolt holding it to the engine that has to be loosened before you can make the PS move with the tensioner... I would speak to the whole tire thing but it'd take too much explaining....basically the error curve isn't linear so at 90 MPH gauge speed I would guess it was about 12 MPH slower but at 55 its probably only about 5 MPH off u can always run the #s...there's lots calculators out there that will do this for u
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87 twin turbo sas 1 inch lift...
unccpathfinder replied to AK9849cy's topic in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
This whole topic got me wanting the tts as well...but it also got me on my other track of finding a wrecked fronty with a SC and swapping in that dash/engine...but I think a play toy is in order before that -
87 twin turbo sas 1 inch lift...
unccpathfinder replied to AK9849cy's topic in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
I figured eat it up so when there is no power (truck or switch off) it sets and when on or switch not on the brake is disengaged...if it fails it'd be similar an 18 wheeler loosing air to his brakes resulting in the brakes applying which is better than no brakes at all -
87 twin turbo sas 1 inch lift...
unccpathfinder replied to AK9849cy's topic in Solid Axle Swaps, Hardcore Custom Fab
Ryan u could always do the jgc console swap if it gets too crowded under the dash...or line locks...or a solenoid actuated park brake cable -
BP blasted....used the pipe wrench to get the nut and lock washer off...ran the nut up without the lock washer to break the rust free...loosened the nut...broke the puller...took the center link loose rotated Pittman to where I could hit it with my 5lb hammer as close to.the splines as possible...after about 6-12 whacks they were both off...I compared the first one to the other to make sure i don't bend anything and i hadn't so I will be reaming one out to make a 1 ton front susp
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1 down and 1 to go....the exhaust is our cheater bar on the pipe wrench
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Yea i know its donkey...Worse comes to worse the whole box is coming with me...
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Just know where I've had better service...plus if u let him know ure from npora there r some small rewards...hell when I was going to moab I had parts that I bought off of ebay shipped to steve BC i they wouldn't get to me in time and he brought them to me..u post rror on ACs forum and ure in trouble...id def pay more for something thru steve than less thru AC BC i know if i have issues I have someone who genuinly cares about his customers and the products he sells. So if expecting good service and getting it is biased then yep I'm biased.
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Going to pull a part and need to know what size socket or wrench I need to pull the Pittman arm...also what other years r comparable to the 95 arm Thanks
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Ruggedrocksoffroad.com > 4x4parts.com
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4 on my h233...email steevo at ruggedrocksoffroad BC he bought a rear axle off of me and it was different BC of the year I think...but I doubt it was the spider gears
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AC 3" Body Lift Install on '91 Nissan Terrano
unccpathfinder replied to shasdakota's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Good stuff...I also did one that steevo should be able to share with folks but esentially the same...i thought about cutting my PS hose and pitting in a hard pipe about 2-3" long with clamps to extend the lines -
I would bet you could take that tank to 500 psi and it wouldnt rupture...I don't reccomend trying it but to each their own...I couldn't find a good place for mine under with the 3...also keep in mind a cylinder is a better pressure vessel than a box...pressurized airplanes, gas cylinders and automotive air tanks are all cylinders
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Yep...what b said...they prob lifted by the frame and let the axle sag until the driveshadt hits...id guess no sway bar...longer shocks and a panhard drop will allow this to happen...it will also rip the parking brake cables from their mounts
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The single wire up front? That gave me problems the most
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I had that issue with the connector on the distributor
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Yes
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research sacrificial anodes its used when dissimilar metals can't be avoided...I think the "safe" area is less than .25 differential on the galvanic scale but I could be wrong...not trying to be an ass just trying to educate BC i didn't know about it really until I worked in the aerospace industry and now have applied it in the trucking industry... Now b u can't go around telling folks to check if its magnetic....what if someone had a stainless plug made for that truck?
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Gotcha...yea mine will change eventually and get more volume
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Google search galvanic potential add some head and road grime and corrosion gets bad....mine is fskced up from using a 1/2" breaker bar but I made sure to keep upward force while turning after I ringed it out a time or 2...iirc they r pipe threads as well
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Weld it good...plug is steel....transmission is aluminum...let it cool and go for it
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I didn't find space under the body...this has to be redone...compressor is lower than the tank (bad) and tank too far forward (bad) other than that it works good for my locker and airing back up
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unccpathfinder for a filler 5/20