unccpathfinder

Screw it...a trail fix is using a zip lock bag to drain all of ure fluid in if u need to drain it for some reason to fix something....then throw the bag back in the differential and let it grind the bag away...never done it and I think it applies more on rear covered different where u don't have to pull the center Chunk but same philosophy

The thorleys give u some extra HP but u loose a lil bit of lower end torque

I've cracked my thorleys and they won't replace them....ill probably pull the off and reweld them

I also believe the Valvoline gear oil I use says safe for use in gl4 transmissions...its been a while since I looked at the bottle...I'm not gonna say to use gl4 or gl5 but I do know a lot of people have damaged their transmissions by them being serviced and under filled causing heat in the gears as well as insufficient lubrication causing premature syncro wear...from what I've read on the additives in the gl5 there r different levels of sulfers that can corrode yellow metals...I haven't seen our syncros first hand but id guess they r steel with either brass alloy coatings,bushings but it can't be solid brass or other yellow metals as they don't have any shear strength and I def live the philosphy of if u can't find it grind it and have yet to break anything inside... I'm very hard on everything I drive and lots of time I don't use the clutch just rpm match...so yea I think gl5 can cause issues but I don't think its in a matter of a year or 2 but 10-20 but with regular changes with the proper fluid capacity I don't believe there will be significant wear other than typical wear...that's from my experience and from what ive read about But like I said I'm not saying to use either or

Only time I've had a hard time keeling it running was when it was still tbi and my air filter got soaked...after about 5 mins of good on throttle driving it all smoothed out

Mine was getting it around the plugs or plug wires at the cap

I usually did mine with the engine running (making sure the exhaust didn't get too hot before spraying it down and not spraying the although directly)... I gave up on washing my truck and engine bay BC its a lost battle

The issue with having a starter tested is If u have a bad spot on the solenoid it will pass every time unless it randomly falls on that slot while being tested

My gfs truck had this same issue...upon further inspection the + cable running from the battery to the starter was basically broken in half with only a few strands actually holding it together would have to arc to start it...which is scary BC i almost burned my truck up when the cable chaffed and welded itself to the frame melting my battery...but hers was random as well... Hopefully its something simple like cable loose or damaged

Also worth mentioning to make sure u fill from the shifter BC the fill hole is in the wrong location

Valvoline (whatever weight the owners manual states) SAE 90?

Gl5 in my transmission...yes I've had syncro problems but they were there when i bought the truck 12 years ago...granted I swapped transmissions about 3 years ago for my engine swap my syncros had not gotten any worse...that transfer had about 275k miles on it...the one in here now has about 180 k and it has the same issue with grinding occasionally in 4th gear but hasn't gotten any worse over time and I have yet to rebuild a transmission.

I've purple powered My engine countless times with no issues...a few times I got the dizzy cap wet and just popped to off and dried it out...almost all the plugs r sealed but still don't want to drown them

I fabbed up an adapter to make it bolt to my front cross member and cut and rewelded the bumper brackets then shortened the wrap around corners by about 2" also note that I have a 3" bl...my positioning was based off of winch loads, ground clearance and headlight beam clearance

Protect the corners... $300 bumper from trail gear reworked

Borrow away

GoneMOAB last may Rocks and debris damage to a radiator suck so keep that in mind

Be careful with front diff....I almost lost my pinky over one....

Nunya calls this my specialty...most states its illegal to drive without a bumper...I drove mine near 2 years without one...

worst chance you have is knocking the oil plug off or falling directly on the pan...i havent seen any pans destroyed but that's not saying it can't happen

did what vagabond did on my truck...the gf's trucks OPS is just danglin...if it blows up it blows up...she wouldnt ever look at the dummy lights anyways...

A lot of mine came from shock loads when I came over a rock with a lil too much skinny pedal or a wheel off the ground and gaining traction then turning in...the angles with the cranked bars make the geometry amplify any load into the suspension basic rule of thumb is keep the uca as parallel to the ground as possible... The Uca doesn't really add any help other than upper ball joint angles so u could potentially get the spaces and make those work but I'm not 100% on that

Check valve cover gaskets first...then maybe rear main seal...oil pan gasket sucks to change and yes with the vg30 4x4 u have to basically drop everything out

Yea...I had a write up on 4x4parts.com...I jumped it in the cab for the park/neutral inhibit switch. But it looks like u got it