unccpathfinder

Trail master lift will drop the front axle 3" as well as the torsion bars decreasing ure ground clearance...see slicks truck No bolt on tre upgrades and where you upgrade that its no longer the weakest link and u start bending idler arms, Pittman arms etc and so on

And some pics for ref for some of my bent/broken tres

The calmini steering kit is supposed to be alright but very expensive...like I mentioned up top if it were me personally id do stock susp height (maybe a alight tbars crank) with a 3"bl and 32" tires. The more u keep the stock geometry for ifs the least risk u have of tearing things up... do 32s get some armor (skids/sliders) and an arb rear and/or front locker and call it good...I would stay away from ifs lifts Yes the parts u listed would be good to invest in with an ifs lift...u may also want to beef up the Pittman arm..if u don't believe me on ifs parts PM Mr Reverse on 4x4parts.com BC he has an most bullet proof front end now for ifs but I think at moab he still bent a tre (tie rod end)

For a decenly capable off road pathy on a small budget... Long travel shocks (Rancho is what I have) 3"bl (150$us) 32x10.50r15 tires Disconnected/removed sway bar Maybe some light fender trimming And u will be able to do a lot with keeping the ifs together Bl keeps the CC lower BC your only lifting the body and passengers a sl lifts all of the major CC increasing components like engine transfer frame and body so the argument of Not doing a bl BC of Cg is bogus BC the 3" sl will always move the cg higher than a bl...disconnecting sway bars will change your handling but I've driven over 15k miles without any sway bars a 3"sl and 3" bl on 33s plus lots of wheeling miles and haven't put it onthe lid yet... With the 3" sl u will also need to think about a panhard drop brkt

I didn't talk him out of anything...just stating that in the last year I've been thru about $300 of TREs, 300$ of centerlinks, $200 compression rod bushings, $100 idler arm, 200$ of upper bjs on top of the $900 price for a calmini lift, granted u can crank and cut jgc coils but have plenty of trail spares...in moab i went thru 4 tres in less than 50'...so if u r trying to build a trail capable rig then ifs lifts r not the way to go...u can do a SAS and be highway/DD friendly...I've got a $1000 locker sitting in my rear end that I can't use to actually assist me with my ifs once I was regear or stack the case and SAS my truck will be damn near unstoppable...went to gone saw leafed and coiled trucks handle damn near everything that was thrown at them...saw and broke a lot of ifs parts...So with $2k in parts that i spent I could have SASd my truck did a 4 link and not even need the locker although its always a nice insurance policy...with a SAS and good links u can keep all 4 wheels on the ground and not even need the locker...and ive never killed a Cv But then again I've had my truck for 12 years and its been on the trail since I've owned it to certain extents...I followed with in my opinion and if u talk to anyone else who wants to build a capable Nissan they aren't ifs...I remember now y I never post here anymore Black 95 is 3" home build susp lift cut to clear...my 87 with 3+3 and trimming is flexed on it...this is right before we swapped the sl for the bl

General rule with these trucks is 3"so+3"bl= 33" tires...my 87 that gets wheeled hard has 3" calmini sl and a 3" pa lift...I cut fenders and still get rubbing...my gfs truck had 33s with cranked tbars when we bought it...the front fenders were basically cut off and they had put spring spaces in the rear(extremely dangerous...we have put the susp back to stock with a mild crank up front and I have cut the fenders for in town driving...off road driving would cause major issues with tires and body rub Where I was going with the arb is I installed mine thinking it would be an advantage...well it would be if my steering components weren't stock...so the locker is helpful for me when I'm in 2 lo and my manual hubs allow me to not put power to the wheels but rather the CVS spin but don't turn the wheels...I'm more capable in 2 lo locked right now than 4 lo locked but about the same either way in 4 lo unlocked due to my steering components...I wish I would have SASd from day 1 and would have saved a significant amount of $ in the end...yes its a lot of custom work but there's tons if info on here and steevo at ruggedrocksoffroad is putting together SAS parts to make it a little easier I also know my truck and got used to picking lines that didn't require a locker...hell at moab I overrode my spotter BC he almost made me roll my truck and then brought open/open trucks up an obstacle that everyone thought you needed lockers for...its just a matter of driver/spotter skills and knowing what your rig can and can't do and that all comes with experience I can't SAS right now but I'm looking at building a new center link,beefed up idler arm and Pittman arm then upgrading the TREs to 1 ton pickups to help stop breaking things I'm sentimental about my 87...drove my 95 2500 miles wheeled it 2 weekends in a row then pulled it into the garage and stripped it and up fitted my 87...just different strokes for different folks

Off the ground...prob a 40% grade...the first pic both TREs r bent...they were at goneMoabX last may

Search my posts regarding the vg30i swap...I swapped it with my vg30e...u gotta do a full swap with ecu wiring and get the speedometer gage swapped to the electronic version for the 94 engine to work correctly Next I wouldn't waste my time with ifs lifts if u r going to wheel it hard...SAS it...if u don't SAS then u better get every upgrade for steering that u can and carry lots of TREs as trail spares...next 33s will need at least a 3" BL or a lot of body trimming No new ring and pinion for the arb...just née carrier...IMO the arb is kinda pointless with ifs unless u just put it in 4lo and don't lock the front hubs...just speaking from experience...if u want to regearit should work with the arb but anything under 33s doesn't really need rerearing IMO...with the exception of building a doubler or getting Crawler gears

They make for good highlift jacking points...which is a must on the trail...I can lift from either side front or rear with my bumpers or sliders

Trail gear bumpers reworked Keep good ground clearance

Search my posts for.cruise...does the horn work? Or only work sometimes...u prob need a new contractor in the steering wheel

Sorry about the double post...steevo has an install write up and they were only Like $200 with gusset plates

Trail gear sliders from steevo at rugged rocks

Yep...I have one...

Good work...I was gonna do that...then ~4 hrs of work

specialty tools you may need would be a harmonic balancer puller which you can rent from most parts stores...you want the bolt type not a jaw puller type...and i think its a 10MM alan for hte head bolts...and a timing light to set the timing...i have the cheapest timing light you can get I'd say your first time with minimal experience it would take you about 30-40 hours...wehn i did mine i did it with an ex gf's dad and we did it in about 25 hrs total...i don't cruise the forums that much anymore but if you PM me I can give you my email and if you have some issues i can try to help that way to get the crank bolt loose i ususally use a 1/2" Drive breaker bar and hit it with a 3lb hammer (works like an impact gun)

Autoparts store or find the fsm on here or after the dealership...just curious how u know u blew the head gasket? Its not a difficult job to do but the intake is the biggest pita...while u r in there u may as well get a master engine gasket set and replace as many seals/gaskets as possible...replace timing belt, water pump, bypass hose, valve seals, tstat...etc u will spend close to $300 on parts and depending on what tools u have, u may need to spend 100-200 on tools...mainly a torque wrench...everyone will say to get new head bolts...I've never done it and rebuilt 2 top ends on these trucks and never had an issue...still not convinced they rone time use

missing my 64 scout....nice buy

too bad i didnt see this a while ago...i woulda just replaced both heads from the same enigne...i've used 86 maxima heads on my 87 and on a 94 engine with no issues i also reworked an 86 maxima engine to a 94 pathy engine...theres threads on here somehwere...

before you start tearing into it...run a compression check on all 6 cylinders...I got my tool from sears for like $80...its as easy as pulling all the plugs..screwing the right adapter in...turning the truck over a few times (make sure to pull the coil wire for safety...you may want to pull the fuel pump fuse too) you should have like 106psi i believe but if you have a dead cylinder it will show up like 60 or lower...if you find a dead cylinder don't panic yet if you have some mechanical aptitude and time if a dead cylinder is found it's quite possible the belt jumped and you ate a valve or more...the square tooth belts are good for 60k i think and round tooth belts to 105k...I learned the hard way when i was 16 when i changed a water pump and not a timing belt...about 3-6 months later the belt snapped and i ate intake and exhaust valves in cylinder #1 and exhaust in cyl #3... The extent of the work wasn't that much...pulling intake manifold,egr and then pulling the heads then disassembling the heads and replacing the valves after inspecting everything. The only specialty tools I needed was a valve spring compressor, torque wrench, 10mm alan socket and valve lapping kit...the entire job took about 2 days total...3 days b/c 1 of my valves was the wrong part in the right p/n box...with valves a complete engine gasket/seal kit and the tools and doing the work myself the engine work cost me ~$250-300 total If you pass a compression check then i'd go ahead and change the timing belt and make sure I get everything right on it...def would change cam seals, water pump, t-stat, valve cover gaskets, and i'm sure theres something else i'm missing EDIT: I saw you have a 94...taking the intake apart is a PITA...This is my gf's 95 tore down getting a timing belt and valve cover gaskets (i walked her through most of the work except when she got too cold and i did some work)

nice work again ryan...like the bitch grip...mine would need to say "OH @!*% HANDLE"...I can't wait to have a house and a shop...if things work out i'll have plenty of room (house I want has a 1200 sq ft shop) I'll let you take up part time residence in there if you want...it's a short drive halfway across the country Hmm...i've seen several roll overs in older nissans and the A pillar is plenty strong...the geometry is naturally strong...a lot stronger than anything i could think of "overhead"

Yea Jeff dropped springs all over the place...that truck had too much lift IMO but hey he didn't have tre problems

wish i was closer...broke the t-belt in my 87...$250 in parts later and 2 days i was back on the road

nice work again ryan... i have dumped my calmini springs before...if I did this link mod I'd def had to put spring retainers in...the upper links and frame rail are what limits me (tires hit frame) i've got the 3" panhard drop and no sway bar if you don't recall from the moab trip...i helped it with some wheel spacers out there but i don't like that as a long term solution

So what's a Turbo? That's what you have to get before a blow off valve will work BC I really want to sit at stoplights and be able to squeak at everyone...that's good for them too right? Just poking...good work ryan... Hows that finger?