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Ninetyfivehatch

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About Ninetyfivehatch

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1988 XE Mainly stock, But hopefully changing soon
  • Place of Residence
    Chandler
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1988

Profile Information

  • Location
    Phoenix, AZ

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  1. I have not tried running any fuel system cleaner through them. This problem has been getting progressivly worse. I really started noticing the hard restarting about a month ago. Then for about the last Three weeks sometimes it would start and idle terrirble for about the first few minutes until I drove a few miles. I have since run about 2 full tankfulls of gas through the car During all of this I checked the ECM for codes severl times, and always got code 55, no problems. I needed an emmisions test and decieded to give it a try last friday. Truck passed for everything but failed for high CO, which makes sense now with the leaking injector. Yesterday morning I got in the truck about 5 am, started it, and it ran worse than ever. It could barely even idle without input from the throttle. I let it run for about a minute, before i really noticed that it was just pouring black smoke out of the tailpipe. I turned around to notice that I had covered my entire street in what looked like fog from all the smoke under the morning streetlights. I turned the car off and this is when it finally had the Leaking fuel injector code. Is it even worth trying to run a fuel injector cleaner when the problem is already this bad? This is my driver and I really need to get it back on the road. Thank you, I will send Alkorahil my info and see what they can tell me.
  2. I have an 88 3.0 with a leaking injector. The truck has recently started running rough, and is very difficult to restart if i stop, such as a gas station. Yesterday it finally threw a code, 45, which got me investigating. If I turn the key to the ON postition without starting the car I can watch fuel drip from one of the injectors onto the butterfly. This causes the truck to run horrible at idle. My pathfinder is an 88 model but it was built in 9/87. All sites that I look up (O'reilly, Autozone, Python) list different injectors for 87 vs 88. Here lies the problem, I assume that mine is a 1988 model but I am really not sure. Most companies will not accept returns on these, so I need to know that I am ordering the correct injectors the first time. As all of you are probably aware these injectors seem to be made of Gold. I can't get over the prices on them. Some places sell them individual, while others sell them in pairs already connected to the harness. I believe that its better to replace in pairs but I wanted to know your opinions. here are my questions: Can someone tell me the difference between the 87 vs 88-89 injectors? or if it really makes a difference? Should I replace these in pairs? Thx
  3. I don't know that I would call it the easy way, maybe the easier way... When I first started this project I did a lot of internet searching. The only post I really found was from here on NPORA, and ADAMZAN had some pictures of his install. It showed him cutting the floor of his hatch to install the lower bracket. This scared me off, as I think it did some of the other posters. After two years I finally decided I didn't care if i had to cut my floor, I was getting this carrier out of my back yard and onto my Path. I was tired of it just rusting in the corner. I'm glad to hear some other people have ventured down this road too. Its well worth the effort, but there is lots of effort involved.
  4. You CAN install a factory carrier onto a non-equipped Path without cutting any sheet metal! This is on my 88 XE, though im sure others should be similar. Total work time was at least 8 hours, definitely not a quick easy job. Total investment $120, $30 for the carrier and $90 for the shipped brackets. And what a job it was… I would never do it again, but I sure am glad it’s done. I bought a used carrier from a pick a part about 2 years ago, and bought the kit from 4x4parts.com around the same time. When the brackets came in I saw the size of them, looked at the car, and I got discouraged and the parts sat ever since. Well this weekend I finally got tired of hauling that 32” tire onto the top of the truck every time I went out camping. The Kit NISSAN supplies is for body shops that have the quarter panel off, It is not an add on kit. This job is impossible without an angle grinder or some kind of metal cutting tool. For the rear latch and support bracket, Nissan was nice enough to hide captive nuts behind the body. All you have to do is drill the holes, they even dented the metal where you need to drill. Though mine were not centered and it took quite a bit of filing to make them fit, still much easier than the rest of the install. I don’t understand why Nissan didn’t do the same thing for the rest of the brackets. How much more money per vehicle would it have cost them to install all the brackets so all you had to do was drill holes. One carrier bracket bolts in just as is, the other two need to be modified, One slight, one heavily! I was able to bolt the two top brackets into the factory supplied locations with little modification. They place all their weight on the factory supports inside the body like they should. The lower bracket, underneath the tail lamp is another story… I had seen another post on NPORA back in the day about someone who did this job by cutting the floor of the hatch. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6680&st=20 I was willing to do that if I had to, but it was my last resort. I did manage to cut the S#!t out of the bracket and get it to fit. It was a trial and error thing but when I was done there wasn’t much left of it. The lower bracket no longer attaches to the inside of the body the way Nissan intended but at least it is a thick piece of metal that braces against the outer body so it doesn’t tear a hole in the body work. Besides, the latch and the rear mount seem to hold most of the vertical weight while the carrier is locked, which is 99% of my time. Below are some pictures of the before/after and the aforementioned bracket. I had to cut off even more than you see in the picture, I drew the red line to illustrate. Even with as much as I cut off I still had to pry it into place using a hammer and a small pry bar. Any questions just ask I’ll be happy to share my experience. I posted this over at 4x4parts as well to spread the info.

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