unccpathfinder

I'm doing 2 BL installs next week...1 on a 95 nissan and 1 on a 03 rubicon...how mechanically inclined are you b/c the install isn't terribly difficult and I could do a pretty decent walk thru...there is already one in hte how to section and another one that precise and I contributed on that has some pix on it already...its not too bad if you have some basic tools and 2 jacks and a piece of 2x4 or 4x4

your gonna get a lot of but there are several options...you can get springs from calmini, JGC (jeep grand cherokee) and cut them down you could also give Steeevo from Rugged Rocks Offroad a call and i'm sure he might be able to source some rear springs and some sway away torsion bars

whats wrong with that...i wheeled my 95 the day before i stripped it for parts different strokes for different folks

I haven measured the u joint caps to see if they r interchangeable but yes this could be a custom option Or get true CVS made

not really...i'm starting to plan on cutting all the IFS stuff out

I just saw this thread...but yes you can hi-lift off of them...ONe issue that I have noticed is the body flex's on its isolators at a different rate than the suspension/frame so sometimes depending on where i jack from the body will get close to the sliders at first we thought it was the sliders deflecting but after taking some measurements off of the frame it was the body moving on the lift blocks/isolators independently of the frame I do have a little more angle on my out posts than steevo has but i don't have any pix of the underside of them for now

a hybrid conversion is gonna cost significantly more than continuing to pay for gas...to get a transmission with a motor/generator, batteries, driveshafts, electronice etc i'd suspect you would spend upwards of $60k...not to mention the problems with no brake booster, power steering or ac when the engine is off unless you had it all running off of an accessory motor which then typically menas you need an ac/dc converter and the know how how to get all of it to work together

If you havent ever played with fiberglass/bondo and you've watched video's on how to you're not gonna be great at it at first...I've done a decent amount of fiberglassing at my old job and it's one of those things you learn from experience. I like the rubber grommet idea...but i'd still want to see a pic of this

I believe you are right but I havent tried to swap out flanges on the differential but i still know the diameter of the cv's is different...i found this out when i tried to put the 95 cv on my 87 truck when my 87 truck still had the same spindles...i didnt want to fight with changing out wheelbearings and what not so i just swapped all the front steering componenets

its not as simple to change the CV as the OD is different where it goes thru the spindles...I found this out the hard way...I think i could change out the wheel bearings and retrofit back to a different CV but then again the older styles were 6 bolt where the new ones are 5 bolt...and yes that's y i grabbed them b/c they look like the most stout hubs that I have see yet

Saw these manual hubs in the JY and had to pull them just b/c i havent seen them before and thought they may be OEM manual hubs...I wish they would work on my 95 or i'd keep them as spares but I figued i'd pick them up and see if anyone was interested in them b/c i'm sure someone would love to give them a nice home...anyways heres the pix of them:

got one done Glad to see one of the local soldiers on the news is home recovering sadly his partner (a dog) was killed by the IED he had searched out...hope for a safe speedy return to all of our troops

i need to take some measurements to and do some driveline reviewing to see if it puts the driveshafts in a bad spot...if so I could get CV's made but like i said prob all in good time

Alright...long story short I got my buddy into wheeling pretty hard...he's got a rubicon and today got his "motor lift" and body lift...so I got to thinking about it on a nissan... I beat on my tcase pretty hard when on the trails and know i could go with a black panther skid but was thinking about a 1-1.5" lift on the motor and transmission...I haven't gone through a driveline calculator yet or measured my available slip and angles on the front shaft and rear shaft (more worried about the rear shaft)...the jeep one just lifts the motor and not the trans but I don't really want to change my power angle the positive side is a lil more GC at the center of the vehicle (gets the tranny above the bottom of the framerail) but the negative is that it raises your CG..maybe not enough to notice...basically the plan would be to have a spacer block at the transmission isolator and then I'd have to figure out how to make a spacer block at the engine which won't be too difficult with a 3" BL there is plenty of room for exhaust and engine rock If it requires new driveshafts that may be ok too since i'm starting to get together information to complete a SAS in the next year or so

Got 2 more brkts welded up last night and the tabs for the turn signals...it passed the high lift test and now it needs to get the full load pull test after i get the winch wired up and maybe get my chicken fasteners in better pix and my cobbled up pix to come... I also learned how to modify brackets for 3" BL to get rid of the BS performance accessories spacer plates...after I put the 3" BL on the gf's truck and verify they're work I may try to make a couple of sets to sell

I'd say its a good thing if you can center the part that you are drilling but I highly doubt you will be able to get it to line up...also the picture doesnt show any "accessory" parts but a blank head so on vehicle use may not be possible... I've used lots of different drill blocks and drill bushings and i've used one similar to this for rivet spacing while doing some aircraft work

my 87 lost its seal and i put some lucas in it and it worked fine for about a year and then it just leaked like a siv

I've done that too I got wheelmanLS1's engine and i twas in a wreck...motor ran great but with very little drive time on it she started to smoke pretty good...

my replacement bushings last about a month without any wheeling and 10 mins with wheeling...i put a spot weld on the inside of the cup and it causes the bushing to crack over time...i've gotta go back and grind it off and weld up new bearing races for cups but have too many other projects going on...I just deal with that for now Also I had one of the bolts on the compression rod start to back out...i'd double check that everything is good and tight

compression rod bushings as well...i'm having major issues with mine b/c of my welding job and keep on splitting them and they clank/bang/thud from time to time usually on acceleration after a hard stop and when i hit bumps or offroading....i can feel it right under my left foot

and for ref from ramon's thread

I'd rather rebuild a top end than an engine swap...I have done both a couple times each...but that's me

Rebuild ure current engine for like $400...top end that is

I'd guess power steering gear...

I did a vg30 but could be done if there is motion for a 4 cylinder off the assembly line or just upfit to the vg