unccpathfinder

I need to know if the axle shafts with disk brakes from an LSD will work for an open carrier...both r 31 spline...in the lot and about to pull it

I think I know what the wear is from on the clutch but i've been holding it in reserve...when i did the swap from the 95 to 87 i pulled the clutch to change the RMS and accidentally touched the disk with my fingers...i know you're not supposed to spray them with solvent and had a pretty good idea that it would fail prematurely...it lasted maybe 15K after that I agree...it's all about the grain structure the last flywheel i pulled i wouldnt have resurfaced b/c it was heat soaked and you could have probably turned the "brittle" sections off and may not have been warped but it wasnt worth the risk...the flywheel i just pulled i will probably sell or resurface to have for later i never got clutch chatter until i was driving it cross town adn i know that was the chunks coming off of the disk...going with an OEM flywheel...I don't see aluminum being required...maybe if i had a drag car that I wanted to lighten up but still what's 20 lbs? (obviously i'm not in it for the weight) and no ignorance isnt bliss...i had an issue this week where everyone thought my drivelines were bad but i knew the calcs were right and i had approvals in hand but knew there was an issue by a different vendor...once they provided new software all of the issues were resolved...but i did realize i have some design flaws that arent bad but i want them redone so today i spent 4 hrs at the office redesigning a bunch of stuff and I cant wait until we get the new parts in 2-4 weeks to install them and see what improvements or problems it causes but it should increase product longevity by 50-75% anywho...we goofed off today and drank beer, watched football and grilled out...got the transmission in...easiest install so far but i figured out a few tricks that were helpful...tomorrow we're going shopping at the JY 1.5 hrs away to hopefully get all the parts to fix my carnage then come back and get the tranny bolted in and the drivelines up and the tbars in replace the clutch master and slave and then go for a test drive...then i'm going to be driving about 100-150 miles a night after work to get the cltuch wore in to go wheeling next weekend

Ah well specify year in the post lol...I'm on my phone and don't have time to look up truck info sorry for providing bad info

Uppers wear. Out faster than lowers in my experience

$7 pitman arm puller is what autozone sells it as works great for pressing the bj out...

your kidding me right? not to seem arrogant or anything but this is far beyond my first rodeo...I did do all the mechanical design for an electric vehicle that was completed in less than a year...I never have the flywheel resurfaced...it gets a new one...

Clutch: flywheel: pressure plate: disk:

clutch is out right under 4 hrs of work...I was surprised to not see any hot spots on the flywheel...the last one i took off was nice and purple...there was a decent amount of clutch left on the flywheel side but the back side to the pressure plate was toast...several chunks missing and the pressure plate disk has some good hot spots on it...not really sure what's up with that also a HUGE concern is the pilot bushing fell out of the crank shaft when i pulled the trans...was tired i havent measured things but i'm curious as to what problems that can cause me in the future While under the truck I found lots more carnage from last weekend...so it looks like i'm working some tomorrow...then trying to finish up the clutch and then on sunday hopefully go to pull a part and buy some rear links as spares and replacements since I bent the drivers side

Bring'em on....got the truck across town...barely

doesnt look like it posted....i'm going with a CF II...will be posting pix through this venture again...can't wait to see what it feels like...hopefully UPS delivers tomorrow b/c i have everything else...i cant wait to hear B's comments on this flywheel b/c i know its a lot worse than the one i posted about 3 years ago...it had some nice deep purples....

alright here's my stab again as this was my cherry popper as far as doing "serious work" note 1: I have never purchased new bolts...someone feel free to do the calcs but from my experience the torque range is not torque to yield as a heat cycle would cause the bolts to eventually elongate enough through heat cycles to become brittle and break...but someone do the calcs off of the thread pitch and torque values to see the actual tensile load on the bolts and i'd assume something extreme like .1 elongation at max engine temp to see if the tensile strength exceeds the yield strength of the bolt material...i highly doubt it... the rest...is fairly simple... drain coolant disconnect and mark plug wires, vacuum lines and coolant lines unbolt intake manifold...PITA if your MPFI this was much easier on TBI engines...i think with the MPFI you have to do the upper intake then lower intake pull all drive belts pull timing belt covers and timing belt (need harmonic balancer pulley crows foot type with right bolts to thread into puller, crank bolt needs to be out first pull valve covers pull rockers pull lifters FSM nad haynes talk about methods to keep them primed refer to service manual and loosen head bolts in order... clean gasket surfaces..dont use metal abrasive disk but 3m disks and goo gone work great set #1 to TDC install heads do the rest of the @!*% in reverse order...i think the 1st one i did took a total of about 20 hrs but all pictures were lost...

I don't have much on pictures I don't believe but i've done this several times and can give you a quick run down...I don't think its possible to leave the tranny in but maybe if you disconnect the rear driveshaft and slide it back about 4"...if you have a body lift i think it may be possible but here is a basic run down text base: ~Disconnect positive battery cable ~Disconnect starter cables and remove starter ~drain coolant and remove radiator/fan shroud (there are 2 tabs on the lower shroud that will allow you to remove the lower section of the shroud so it will slide up and over the fan without removing the fan) ~unbolt torque converter through starter hole (4 bolts, rotate the engine using the crank bolt to gain access to each one) ~disconnect all wires, vacuum lines, throttle cables and coolant lines while marking mating components I typically went with a paint pen and marked 1-X on electrical and C1-Cx for coolant and V1-VX for vacuum lines ~Jack up vehicle and support on stands ~loosen jam nut on torsion bars and loosen bars, remove front mounting hardware and drop out torsion bars ~drop out torsion bar X member ~remove exhaust cross over pipe from cat and exhaust manifolds or header ~remove front drive shaft if 4x4 ~loosen rear drive shaft at rear axle, don't pull the slip end out of the trans until you want to drop it b/c fluid will leak out unless you drain the tranny before hand ~disconnect any wires, transmission cooler lines and shift linkage (i've only pulled 1 auto and don't remember how that linkage is set up but I think you can pull the cable from the trans and not mess with the shifter) ~loosen transmission bolts and leave 2 or 3 in...i typically take all the top ones out since they're a PITA to get to...you will need about 18" worth of extensions, a U joint and lots of patience ~I jack the truck back up and remove the jackstands and set her on the bump stops at low rider status to remove the transmission the rest of the way, i typically use a cherry picker through the cab on a MT so I can only suggest a tranny jack for this...and drop the tranny out ~remove the motor mount bolts from engine block ~attach to factory lift points if they are still available ~attempt to pull engine...if you clear the front axle you're a lot luckier than me..if not set the engine back down.... ~remove CV bolts from front axle flange ~remove front axle supporting bolts and vent tube ~drop out front axle ~now pull engine everything goes back together in revers order...i'll see what pictures i can find to try and post them

remember that a drill bit doesn't drill a circular hole...its triangular...you will need to either ream it or plunge with an end mill...you can pick up a dial indicator to indicate center as B said and use a drill press as long as you verify that the bit is true to the table/vice

got a centerforce II

Yea I want to be able to slip the clutch as needed...know the flywheel is gonna be purple and probably chunked up...my clutch master and slaves both need to be changed as I stand so will probably do that and see if there is a sst line available for the slave

So...I roasted the clutch this weekend and need to get a new one but I don't really know where to start...I don't want ot go with OEM replacement since this one only took something like 30k miles but it was beat on pretty hard offroad...basically my rig is designated offroad and the only time its really on road is to get from the house to where i'm wheeling and back with some occasional days that I drive to and from work since I enjoy driving it... So I was looking at RROR and had been talking to some suzuki guys about centerforces at the NOAS run and know a lot of them use them and they hold up to some abuse. I also know the LS1 guys hate them b/c they burn them up in no time if there are any HP gains over stock...that being said we're talking about 300+ HP vs 110HP if i'm lucky...I forgot how expensive clutches are and really don't want to do this job again for a long time an OEM replacement is about $200 Centerforce Dual-Friction Clutch - Nissan Pathfinder 1986.07 - 1996, 3.0 & 3.3L V6 is $640 Centerforce I Clutch - Nissan Pathfinder 1986.07 - 1996, 3.0 & 3.3 V6 is $545 Centerforce II Clutch - Nissan Pathfinider 1986.07 - 1996, 3.0 & 3.3 V6 is $625 that also brings me to the discussion of flywheels and whether or not an aftermarket one is better than an OEM replacement with an aftermarket clutch...

Nice...I like my 2007 taco that I got used...only thing is 1st gear is way short and in the rain she likes to slide around a good bit..I only got the SR5 package but it'll get up and go

Its where I want it vertically and the approach angle isn't altered too much...I plan on mentally checking that this weekend...plus I figured I could just slide on the stinger as long as the winch doesn't hit

dissimilar metals...expansion rates are different and the studs eventually break off dude to heat cycles...its a known problem from hte 80's to the 96 era?

I think warn sells a rebuild kit...Hit up Steeevo at Ruggedrocksoffroad.com

i skipped a lot of reading...basically all of it...check this....on the EGR you should have 2 valves...there is a small valve between the 2..i bet that rubber hose is broken in half...i chased it forever and actually found it when i did my engine pull out of my 95 and put it in my 87

cut off the 2 tabs last week and started getting some rough measurements...I've got a plan of attack for fixing this thing on here and it being good for a long long time...more to come in about 3 weeks... Prob gonna have to cut on the sides of the wrap around: Like how it lines up with the sliders: yes...i know its about .5-1" off center

you gotta badge it with P71 (a buddy of mine badged his volvo V71 in the chevy Z71 logo)

I just got a message about a thread the other week...no clue if it was in the how to or not but it was in regards to a repair i've done before i got a photobucket account and now car domain doesn't allow you to post pictures from their webpage or they changed the link formats so it comes back with bad links