unccpathfinder

Sorry if all the above is scafterbrained...I was in the middle of playing halo wii super Mario bros and drinking lol

Alright...I've got a min to respond to this now...what are the cab conditions if the 87 with the good frame has a better body then don't pull it...heres what i would do...did.... I pulled the good working truck into the garage and started pulling the truck apart...I started by pulling everything off the engine and then stripped hte interior and disconnected any of the connectors and pulled hte harness...I opted to swap rear ends and tranny's and tcase as a hwole unit...you don't need to swap the rear axle if you don't plan on swapping over the ABS brakes...you'll just need to pull the abs bulb in the cluster or pull the light... I'd swap the dashes out including HVAC b/c the 95 stuff was a lot better to deal with than the 87...remember the order of operations b'c it makes life a lot easier later... getting the clusters to innerchange is a PITA and hte ecu drives off of the speedo for hte 95's... so yea...strip the 87 first all the way down to bare cab..then strip the 95 and put the harness in and then work the componenets in unless certain components go in before portions of the harnesses... but start at the very end of htis albumn and it was my 95 pathy tear down: http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z48/unccpathfinder/95%20teardown/?start=120 and here is the 87 build (its out of order and kinda sucky b/c i didnt need as many pix to put it back otgether as ref to pull it apart if i needed them: http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z48/unccpathfinder/87%20buildup/#!cpZZ3QQtppZZ16

Ill get to cleaning that out...and try to respond tonight

yea read some bottles at the parts store tonight...some said for top off only in LSD and others said they were ok for LSD use

Check to see if its LSD BC that matters on oil additives IIRC

Yep...Thanks..first thing I did was cut the Toyota mounts off and doing all custom mounting

nice...wish i came across a reasonable DETT I look fwd to the pix

I will need to trim back the return's on each side..trim my fenders and radiator front wall for asthetics but i'm happy with where i'm at for now...hopefully get it done next weekend

about 50% done on it...it's attached to the truck and not going anywhere but I still have 4 brackets to make before I can install the winch and winch on it

if its a MT then yea the pilot bushing is a pain but here's what i did last time...i used a motorcycle jack and got it close to aligned and then i put the rear driveshaft in and pushed forward on the trans with both feet and put my pry bar in the U joint and rotated the driveshaft with it in gear the splines aligned on the output shaft of the motor and it popped right in... if the truck doesn't have a BL you'll need about 2' worth of extensions and a Ujoint to make life a lot easier on the top 3 bolts

agreed, leaky MC is like a leaky WP...it's telling you there's a problem I just looked at this...$40 for a rebuild kit and $80 for a reman or $90 for a new Good advice...I filled one up before and i've also seen one where the weep hole got clogged and it filled the booster and was sucking brake fluid into the intake...brake fluid burns white and stinks god awful bad...i randomly found it by disconnecting every vacuum line on his truck one at a time since it wasn't running bad

Sorry to hear this man...but you can do this repair and you could do it fairly cheap (under $400) here is what i would do (what i did) 1. get a new timing belt and install it 2. turn the engine over by hand to make sure there is no "hang ups" or hard spots 3. if that's good crank her up 4. if its missing check your timing from the timing belt install 5. if its still missing you can use isolated pliers to pull 1 spark plug wire off the dizzy at a time 6. if the engine idle hcanges or it dies when you pull that wire that cylinder is firing; if not then you more than likely hit a valve and the valves in that cylinder need to be replaced so if you do have bent valves you have 2 options, replace the heads with a different set or rebuild the ones you have...when i broke mine i didnt have a set of extra heads and the JY i was part time working in didnt have a trashed engine i could take heads off of so we rebuilt it...you could also do a compression test... I had no experience in this and the gf at that time's dad helped me out and the job wasn't bad. Tools needed: ------------- 1. torque wrench 2. alan socket for head bolts (IIRC it was 10mm) 3. valve spring compressor 4. valve lapper and compound (the one we got was like 5-10) 5. FSM Reference 6. Metric sockets (8, 10, 12, 14) Parts needed: ------------- 1. master gasket set (this has head gaskets, valve seals, cam seals, instake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, etc) 2. 6 intake valves (we replaced all to not take the chance that a valve in anohter cylinder may have been bent) 3. 6 exhaust valves (same as #2) My trophies (2nd one from the right is straight):

i have experienced hard thumps with auto hubs on ice/snow before when shifting in and out of 4wd but don't know much about r50s

i didnt even know those were available but didnt look that hard but agree with you completely...even 2PSI of oil pressure would suck if you got a leak...and we run at what 80?

i think bobbed iwth a working hatch would be sick but that doesnt leave you much bed space and leaves an interesting mess with the wheel wells

maybe not that straight forward but I'm sure you could rig one up if you're electrically inclined...i was thinking you have a board with LED's that make the P D N R 1 and 2 and you could pull off the auto trans maybe and maybe make the LED's light up that way? _ _ _ _ |_| |\ | | | |_| | _| | | \| |_| | \ | |_ it'd only be 8 LED bars if i counted right

reasonably large hassle is an understatement...i couldnt find one anywhere and is when i started researching the difference between the 2...makes me want to go google the exact difference again... it could very well be i was ignorant before and just crammed a NPT fitting in the BSP port and didnt see the difference...that engine was toast so it never really ran other than some test drives (maybe 100 miles) before it was pulled and scrapped b/c of cracked rings and i had the nylon tubing which crimped and broke leaking oil everywhere (suggestion for copper tubing)

are you sure its BSP and not NPT? I know for a short period of time I ran an aftermarket gage and I didnt have any problems with threading it on...IIRC the difference on the thread pitch between BSP and NPT is only like 1.5 b/c I couldn't find an adapter for my 1/4" BSP ARB fitting and just used a 1/4" NPT fitting with teflon tape and didn't overtorque it and it holds without leaks at 90 PSI

if the key isnt in the ignition it will lock the steering column... I just had a hellatious towing experience...roll back got a flat with no spare...we ended up taking the dually shreaded tire off and putting just 1 wheel on so we dropped the pathy off and towed it front wheels up...i pulled the Dshaft rear flange bolts and laid the Dshaft on top of the muffler and used a motorcycle tie down to secure it pulling it fwd...theres not a really good place to do it so i wrapped it around the mufflers inlet pipe and used the muffler as the front anchor point... what part of NC? I hope to get to gulches in laurnes SC for wheeling soon or to URE before they close for the season

Just swapped in LED's (actually WheelmanLS1 did) but i carried them over to my truck and left the LH gagues standard white bulbs to keep it unique

hmm I'd try to find pix of Frontier2k1's 4 door chop..i think it gave him about a 3' or 4' bed and chop it down a lil more and weld on a flatty didn't AK something or other do the same thing but chopped the rear doors as well?

I don't have sway bars and know they make a difference but i would suspect that a different component that was worn out wore out the sway bar bushings and it will soon come back...typically the sway bar only helps in roll where a bump or excitement in the suspension will give you bump steer being the sway bar has no impact on steering just body roll also with the compression rod bushings i had bad vibrations on the highway and a pot hole or crosswind would give me "bump steer" and the only way to correct was to reduce my speed and let it oscillate out then accelerate...driving cross country with a trailer was not fun like this...

i've had that with bent TRE's, compression rod (strut rod as advance calls it), and UBJ's...then again no the worst was with a busted compression rod bushing and busted UBJ she would dance every bump i hit and was unpredictable

i've done 2 top end rebuilds and reused bolts/washers and no problems... I"ve also never "primed the lifters and never had lifter tick (stick)...if they were new i'd say prime them if not i wouldnt worry too much about...i set them in the same orientation that htey are in the heads assuming that surface tension would keep them primed...i also left them in the lifter guide so its basically like the truck sitting in a parking lot overnight...

^ what he said...i'm probably just clipping and capping the wire on both of my pahty's and putting it in...use copper tube and not that plastic/nylon crap...