RedPath88

@hawairish I appreciate the nominations but ask that this not turn into a nom thread that may or may not be taken under consideration. I mean nothing negative by this, it is just that I have never been a fan of staff appointed by a method that so often turns out to be little more than a popularity contest. Again, considering the above, suggestions are appreciated, but volunteers are better, especially when they present a case for it themselves... just explain why they would like to be, how they can contribute etc.... and privately. This gives basic idea of they really understand what NPORA is, as a community. However, even then it's hot entirely reliable, to that I'll point to the most recent forum testing and upgrade as a prime example. Many volunteered, few responded and fewer still actually contributed.

Your headlight problem is likely covered in the following thread

I've never run drilled and/or slotted on any of my 4x4's, partly for the reasons mentioned regarding mud and grit, but mostly because standard rotors have always given me good across-the-board performance. However I always do look for quality thick rotors and not cheaper thin walled ones that are more prone to warping under hard braking. Now on my car I do run PowerStop drilled & slotted front and rear and they made a very noticeable improvement to braking performance. But then again I'm never planning on going through any mud holes in my LS.

I may very well be wrong as this is just speculation, but I have a feeling most people stay away from brake kits unless they are performance brake kits.

Never used that kit myself, looks like they include ceramic from pads and semi-metallic rears. Hopefully they are of decent quality, same goes for the rotors. If you do order them, or anything else from RockAuto make sure you check this thread out first.

hmm, almost wish I still lived up there Started it and let it warm up and moved it a few feet so jumper cables reach the trunk of the car. What a hell of a morning, my face hurt... now I know how all you guys feel ...went out to a dead battery in the car, pulled out the jumpack only to discover that it was dead as well. Got a factory battery few years ago which died just out of the full replacement period. Local dealer just swapped it for a new one that had been on the shelf too long to still be sold. Rather than charging me nearly full price under the pro-rate remaining Looks like I got almost a year out of that one, going to have to break down and buy one now though. But the Pathy started right up, as usual, and eagerly jump-started the car!

CB Skip

Just a quick reply here.... sorry about the delay @hawairish. I did see an invite in Hangouts, but did not recognize the name so I let it sit stalled. But @Pezzy did get a hold of me the other day asking about my inbox and sent a screenshot of your message along with. I didn't even realize it was full, however I found a few minutes to clear some PM Inbox room soon after reading her message... guess I was just trying to emulate B (@Precise1) with his perpetually full inbox ... and I did plan to get a hold of you. I usually do a pretty good job of keeping it just under full so that I'm available via PM. However it's also absolutely amazing how fast the staffs PM Inbox's can fill up at times. Just to be clear here, the following applies to @hawairish & @TowndawgR50 as it applies to this specific subject and is not a free pass for all to follow suit. I read your thread in the R50 section and recommend you continue with it to avoid any further delays in your guys' plans. Once we can discuss and perhaps work out an NPORA Vendor status, we'll look at moving it, if appropriate, into the Vendor Section.

Seems like as good a place as any to set this down...

Clean the hell out of it using spray, foaming, pressure cleaner, etc so you can see where the leaks are coming from. Don't for get to look from the top too. Had a company vehicle, a '12 1500 Silverado 4x4, in not so long ago for a rear main seal, so Valvoline thought, as did the real mechanic initially. Turned out the be the rear of the valve cover gaskets leaking and running downtown block making it appear to be the RMS.,,

Not today, but this past Monday, re-registered and filler her up ready for winter duties if called upon

Check other major outlets including uhaul, along with smaller local shops like RV part & service dealers, custom fab shops, etc. Many, including myself, bought ours from wrecking yards. I think I paid 40 or 50 bucks for mine. Also ask yourself what your expecting to get when you say "kit". You'll need a a ball mount and wiring kit as well for your Pathfinder unless it already has it installed. You'll also need the correct size ball if you intend to tow a trailer with it. Check the trailer to find out the exact size ball you need. If you need to wiring, there is a topic here covering that install.

BUMP for new members

This is a great place to start for a lot of common problems including this one.

Although never my Pathfinder, that I can remember at least.... but I have seen a trend over the last 10 or so years where all SUV's that look even a little bit intended for off road use, are "Jeeps". May be stupid but there it is, just something I've noticed lately.

Don't recall anyone ever calling it a Jeep, 4Runner yes, but not a Jeep.

Filled her up! And came to the semi-conclusion that my alarms External/PA speaker might have gone bad

They look very... mid-'80s design cue to me...

Pictures, or it didn't happen! Hmm, to dark IMHO would look better tinted, not blacked. But if you like it then

Have it. Done it. Worked great! Been two years+ since I have had to use it, but the Underground Exterminator worked great for me.

Forum was offline for a couple minutes for a minor software security update.

Well hopefully my efforts ended up on someone else's truck (trucks actually, as I collected several PA/IA/CL sets) in the form of a modified and stronger PA as part of a complete steering system upgrade kit.... but sadly, I really doubt it

Maybe I should have included a /sarcasm tag When I was collecting several sets of steering parts years ago, most of them were pretty stuck, but only one absolutely refused to come off after a little work and/or some heat. One would not budge no matter what. I personally broke two pullers on it. The wrecking yards most experience tech (retired lifelong mechanic, working part time in the yard for a little extra spending money and free project parts) worked on it for a couple hours before giving up himself and he used the same, or similar, puller to the one you linked. I ended up taking the entire steering box home with me. I cut the shaft off at the PA, then using many more heat cycles along with a steel rod and a 3lb sledge I was finally have to drive the cut off shaft out of the PA backwards. So yeah, this was an extreme case

Obviously you've never encountered a WD/D21 with the pitman arm stuck on the steering box!