RedPath88

Yes they can fit with the proper wheel, but how well will depend on a combination of wheels, lift, trimming, amount of rub your comfortable with, etc. I prefer the 33x10.5's on 8's that I currently run But here is a pic of my truck with my Yota's 33x12.5's on 10's Rub aside, I noticed a big difference in power with the added weight of the 12.5's. And keep in mind that my truck is and was lifted 3+3 in both pics. The common rule that most, but not all, subscribe to is 3+3=33 (3in Suspension lift + 3in Body Lift = 33in tires)

I personally would not mount those tires on Lego's. For a 12.5 tires 10in wheels are the ideal, 8in for 10.5's so for me a 7in Lego is way to narrow. Now I am sure someone will jump in and say "Yes you can!" But even if you "can" I would not.

Please do your self a favor and stop right there because the end of that sentence should be... "Nissan has shown to rhyme or reason as to what a Pathfinder was, or was not equipped with, no matter what trim badging was stuck on the hatch door or printed on the window sticker."

The 5th gear in the manual is identified as "OD" in the ratio chart of the FSM's but I think most people associate OD with Auto's, that is the only reason I said that

Short answer: Your using the wrong vehicle as your daily driver. There is nothing backwards in the 15/17 that ratio is perfectly normal of full time dino burners, especially when considering the era. Todays reversal of those numbers, with the city milage being the higher one is mostly due to the wide adoption of hybrids, where the electric motors are used much more in the city. As for the drive, I did 500-700+ (500-550 base commute + on the clock travel) per week and not including after work trips or weekends for years. It's fuel consumption and costs are just something you except or find an alternative too. When I decided to lift it, I understood that those costs would rise, never did I try to fool myself into thinking that I could make it a fuel efficient daily driver. Ok I am confused here, first swapping internals is going to be much more work that simply swapping transmissions... and are you talking about swapping some of the internals from an Auto into a Manual? I want that video documented please! Even more so if you are talking about swapping the 5th gear from a Pathy's auto... they are 4spds, that's 3+OD. According to 1994 FSM PD-98 the ring and pinion ratio's were 4.375 and those trucks factory equipped with the optional 31x10.5R15LT's and P235/75's received 4.625 gears... which does not really clarify what got what, given that those are the two sizes available anyway... unless I am missing something here The 1989 FSM is even LESS clear, because according to it, my truck came with 4.6's, which it did not. No

Oh and just a note here, I would refrain from specifically calling the top gear (in this case 5th) in a manual transmission "OD" as it will likely just cause confusion to those reading. OD is a term regularly reserved for Automatic transmissions.

Different final drive ratio's As for your plan to swap gear boxes for what might or might not be an actual gearing change, Just my opinion, but I doubt that the rewards would be worth the cost and work involved How often do you really drive at 55+ ...an honest % here EPA ratings were the same for both 1991 http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calculatorCompareSideBySidePopUp.jsp?column=1&id=8479 and 1995 http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/calculatorCompareSideBySidePopUp.jsp?column=1&id=12452 The old are what appeared on the window stickers and the new reflect the adjustments to all pre-2007 models due to EPA changes

Carefull, if you stress it to much you could end up braking the tab on the oil pump! And even if you get that bolt out, you will still have to remove the pulley to get the timing cover off. I suggest you thoroughly read the HowTo that was written by 5523Pathfinder as part of his work on a 99 (pics from that job too) How to change your timing belt!

So it is 4.3 or ?

On NA models there is a plate on the RH inner fender well next to the firewall. Here is a pic of mine and my ratios is identified as HG43, so my trucks diff ration is 4.3 front and back. I don't know if it is the same for the Z24's or Diesels but the rules here for VG30's is factory equipped 5sp's have 4.3 and Auto's have 4.63 (I believe that is the correct ratio)

Step: Click the link in my above post Read thread Go back and click link in that thread Read second thread Gain desired info and a ton of knowledge that will help you to better and more easily install your body lift Install lift Be better able to help others Better the NPORA community as a whole!

So you searched and discovered that you needed different bolts, but did not find out the what and where? So I am guessing that your search never brought you to the HowTo? Start there and this will lead you to another thread (linked within the HowTo) with even more info. Sorry some of the pretty pictures are forever gone... unless you want to take some that will appropriately replace the missing ones

I am not even sure that I know exactly what that means? 717 posts and all of the sudden you just can't reply anymore? Reasons why you can't reply Your not logged in (likely) You do not have permission to reply to a given thread (possible, link to one you "can't" here) Thread is closed (possible, and kinda goes with the prior one) Your suspended (which your not, or you could not have created this one) Your doing it wrong! ??? Reasons I cannot thing of right now ???

Not the best thread to post in for help, so I am moving this into it's own thread.

Unless they changed the design, they do not "correct" angles, but do maintain approximate stock angles. People have been able to align them after installing the UCA's but they are actually the only currently produced UCA that is not designed and built to correct angles for lifting to the higher range. Superlift, Rough Country and Calmini are specifically designed to correct those angles. There were others, including Rancho and Jim Connor Racing but they no longer make them. JCR made at least three different arms and two of which were tubular construction. One of the tubular models I know did correct the angles, but they also required new shock towers because of other changes these arms incorporated. The other model of tubular arms from JCR, and I believe the more common, appear to be where the AC (4x4Parts.com) ones came from, either directly or cloned... but I cannot say for sure either way. But in JCR's old literature they said that they provide 2in of lift, as far as I know AC does not say one way or the other. If kept to 2in the likelihood of being able to align it is much higher than going up to 3in or anywhere in between. Personally I believe that if your planning 2 inches or less, then the AC ones should be fine but if you plan to go over 2in then go with one of the other three.

UCA over BJS every time. Your not going to get more travel out of your suspension by lowering it... unless your tires are hitting the fenders and preventing full compression ...what you will get is different proportions up and down than you have now. When you tight them (crank them "up"), you give up downward travel, while gaining upward travel for the sake of lift. Loosen them (crank them "down") and you give up upward travel and gain down travel while at the same time you are lowering the front of the truck. Either way, the full range of movement of the arms does not change. It is limited to what was designed into it and ultimately by the cv joint angles. And those CV angles are the final limiting factor on lifting, via TB Crank, the stock suspension. You say that are cranked them "3.25in" and either are now or you plan to crank them "fully" I find this hard to believe because if they were changed that much or fully, you would be riding on or at the least, very close to the bump stops and that would drastically affect the ride quality. Now that said you could feasibly attain that 3.25in if they were sagging before you started. To me it sound like you need to re-index your torsion bars (it's in the Garage > How To's section) so you know where your really at and get the most effect out of them, and by that I do not simply mean "lift" One more question, if your truly lifted to the max, have you used 4WD since lifting it? You may be seriously risking your CV's.

Are they even allowed anymore? Pretty sure that it was Discount Tire who told me patches were no longer legal, but maybe that was just in this state? This was quite a few years ago, around they same time the tightened down on the sidewall repairs. At any rate, I have not seen any reputable shops around here patch a tire in a long time and the last time I had one done with a patch was in 98-99, when I had a gutter spike in one of the yota's tires. Two or three repairs since have been plugs. I have also repaired one on my own using plugs and it worked perfectly for the 500-1000 miles I put on it before getting new tires all around. In fact I carry plug kits in my vehicles.

Did you do it EXACTLY by the Book/HowTo (specifically, the tension)

Thanks!! Now we finally have someone to blame!

$150? Know anyone in the states? Some members down around there have had items shipped to US members then shipped by that member to them. Not sure about Australia, but it was far cheaper for a New Zealand member to do that with some engine parts. I know because I was the middle man on that once or twice for another member. Double shipping yes, but in my experience USPS out of the States as BY FAR the cheapest option. And he apparently saved enough to deem it worth it. Another idea, have you considered contacting them to see if they can make an exception? Probably bound by exporting laws, but it might be worth a shot. Perhaps contacting SteeevO (his member name here) there at RR would get your answer.

Did you ever und up in the pit? Clean up everything, wire brush the surfaces clean of all corrosion/contaminates in and out of the connectors as well as the post, put it all back together and coat it with batter terminal spray. You might also consider replacing the cables or at least cutting it back and putting a new end on it, the corrosion has probably started working it's way of the cable an inch or two

Look at the info plate on the right hand inner fender well near the firewall, that will tell you what gears the truck came with.

Interesting But... ...if we are going to put this in a year specific section, it should be in the 86-89 category! However, since it broadly covers the GenI pathfinders (86.5-95), we'll move it on over into the General section

Seriously, you may find someone who knows how to do it, if you can do it to this particular deck, but that person may not be here. I think most people here are happy enough with what they have or in using a cassette or an RF adapter or going to an aftermarket deck, if what they have is not good enough. Perhaps more audio oriented sites may offer more results or better direction on where to find such info.