RedPath88

True most tires can be siped by any good shop

I think you will find either of thoise two tires to be good ones. I have the BFG AT's (two of which are the newer KO's) on my Pathy and have been happy with them. A good place to start would be here... Nissan Pathfinder Off-Road Association -> General Topics -> Product Reviews -> The Unofficial Tire Review Thread!

Nice trucks... but wow I really need to stop reading this thread... I see a Pathfinder mount... err on top of a girl, then soon after Aarons talking about sneaky dribbles :X

Make sure you note the shipping on those before you bid...

Yes and that was exactly what brought the idea to mind... I don't remember exactly but I "think" it was around three months prior.. which for me would have been in the vicinity of 6000-7000miles

Lifter replacement is a simple project... not hard at all. I replaced a couple of them on the right hand side while installing a new cam (in place of a broken one) and later on, all of them on the left hand side. Just make sure you loosen and tighten the bolts in the order they specify and to the torque they call for (I can look this up again if you need it)

*Raises Hand and Yells "ME, ME, ME" Yup I have also broke a camshaft, oddly it was also my Right hand cam. I was traveling at about 60mph and she just died, so sounds, no spit or sputter so nothing Coasted off the road and went to work, as soon as I cracked open the upper timing cover I knew something was wrong, the RH Cam gear was not sitting straight. I was obvious the CAM was broke and once I got the valve cover off I found that it was broke just inside the head. I got a replacement for something like 60-70bucks (less if you have a good core) at Delta Cam in Tacoma. So now I found you are the second one I that I know this has happened to and later in the thread Gene reports that it also happened to him... this brings me back to my debate of it being defective cam or given it being the right hand side... possibly to much tension on the timing belt

The theory behind sipping is afaik, increased traction and decreased wear. Increased traction I can personally vouch for. Just after the interchange from I5 on to SR599 in the So Seattle area, there is a semi blind left hand 60mph corner. I came flying around that one day in the rain (going just under 60) with an S10 blazer behind me and some other small pickup behind him (all 4x4's). On the exit from the corner we found that traffic had come to a dead stop just ahead... stood on the brakes trying to stop and felt all four shoes start to skid. Let up just enough to get them rolling again and then right back on them. Luckily we were all able to stop. Couples days later I was near Discount Tire (where I bought two of my tires) and figured I would have them rotate the tires this time. They looked at them and tossed out the option. I returned with some "I'm skeptical" questions and ended up with a "I'll do these for free" A couple weeks later I found myself on the same stretch of road, during heavier rain but with far less traffic on the road. So decided to test the tires, hit the corner a bit over 60 this time (with no one behind me) and stomped on the brakes just as before…. No skidding this time… at all. So yeah, I say it makes a difference! Before anyone asks or says anything, yes I can lock them up and have since (btw no ABS) but the point here was to test them in nearly identical conditions on the exact same portion of road, clear down to the same lane. Tire wear? I have not noticed any drastic tire wear after having them cut.

Original Engine (290K) Highest Recorded: 20.843MPG / 440MPT Lowest Recorded: 15.770MPG / 333MPT Current Engine (134K) Current High: 19.379MPG / 409MPT Current Low: 16.610MPG / 350MPT *All numbers running 87 Octane

Welcome back man

Damn, looks like you had a blast

Tranny costs less than a SAS'ed S- :oops:

I have one for my Yota, but I can't say that I have ever even heard of one for a Pathy... Sorry

Looks good! But like Dan said... 10 cans?

nope ours (mine at least) are electric This is not so... my truck has power locks and "did" not have an actuator in the drivers door. The way the Pathfinders power doors w/o keyless entry work (at least the 2Drs based on my truck) is with a lock actuator in the Passengers door and the rear hatch, but not in the drivers door. The locks are controlled by the drivers lock knob (not a separate switch the driver pushes, located elsewhere on the door panel) Push the knob down and the other two lock with it, pull it up and the other two doors unlock along with the drivers door. At any rate, I picked up a passenger side actuator yesterday from another 2 door... cost $5 Mounting it was a direct bolt in, it simply replaced the switched that was there. But I did have to run two new wires into the door from the wiring harness that runs from the floor into the dash to the left of the drivers feet. This is where I spliced the new wires into the control/trip wires for the passenger side lock actuator. I plan on either designing a way to remount the switch in the drivers door, checking a 4DR to see if the actuator has a switch built in or installing a separate switch in the door panel somewhere (maybe the arm rest) to reactivate the ability to lock/unlock all doors without the remote.

They do not cost that much... and are well worth the price

Thanks for the information... it was as I expected. If I can make it to the wrecking yard this weekend I plan on picking one up. Not sure how the aftermarket ones mount, but I would imagine the factory one may bolt right in. Based my experience Nissan planned ahead on a lot of things when they first designed the trucks. Eitherway (factory or after market) I'll get it done

Who out there has factory keyless entry on a WD21 (if it existed)? If you do, then what year is your rig and if any one knows what year range was it an option? And one more... does you drivers door lock control all the other doors like it does on the two doors (i.e. pull lock up and all three doors unlock, push it down all other doors lock) The reason I ask is because today I got an aftermarket keyless entry system and while installing it I realized that it was not going to work exactly right. Once the installation was completed, my belief was confirmed. The drivers door does not lock or unlock by the remote. This is because the drivers door does not have an actuator... only a switch to control the other doors. What I am thinking here is that any Pathfinder that came stock with a keyless entry system had an actuator and not just a switch in the drivers door. If this can be confirmed and a year range can be identified then I can start looking for a suitable replacement for my switch. Another idea here would be to get the actuator from the passenger side and fit it to the drivers side.

Congrats man..

Day late, but Happy Birthday man

Scott.. sorry to hear about the truck. And I hope the wife and kid are both OK. Today I almost got a white Chevy Astro van in my left front fender!... Stupid woman made a sharp right turn (@ 60MPH) from the far left to the far right lanes (exit lane to north I5) on Hwy512... I was in the center lane. It was close (within inches) but there was no impact.. this only because my brakes work. Sped up next to her and let her know what I thought of her as she exited to northbound I5... By the look on her face I don't even think she knew what "nearly" happened.

Long ago when I was having major problems... umm well the first time I had major problems I troubleshot the Fuel Pump. A call to a local dealers service center got me into contact with an old-time Nissan tech. He told me that "most" of the Pathfinders got the access door but not all of them. He knew of no real pattern to what did and what did not get the door. iirc I think I found a 4dr once that did not have the access door. Only way to tell for sure is to pull the carpet up in the cargo area As for the hiss.. as stated it is likely the fuel pump. Does that mean it will need replacement soon? I doubt it, the original did it and so did the replacement that I got from a wrecking yard, neither one showed any signs of failing. My original had 250,000+ miles on it and the replacement was around 150,000. (For the record, my replacement of the fuel pump did as I expected... nothing, so now I have a spare, my trucks original)

Is this what you are looking for?

The clinometer would be nice to have;

If ALL your power is cutting out then I would first suspect the battery terminals as needing cleaned and tightened. Then work from there our, starting with the Positive (+) cable down to the starter (also check the fusible link connectors at the battery) then move on to the Negative cable. Follow it to body ground then engine ground. Removed each contact and clean them (scrap/wire brush if need be) to make sure they have a good clean contact point. Also make sure they are good and tight when you put them back on. I just went through this at a local coffee shop a month (maybe 2) ago with the yota. It turned out to be the + battery terminal. It was dirty inside, but appeared to be fine on the outside.... I too suspected a connection at the starter, but later figured out that in messing with the connections down there I was simply moving the Positive terminal just enough to make contact again