RedPath88

Did it squeal before it broke? If so (even if it did not) check the pulleys to make sure they are not seized... the AC pulley On the right of picture) should spin freely when the AC is off and the idler pulley (on the lft - in front of the distributor) should spin freely any time the belt is not on it. If they do not then you found the reason the belt broke Otherwise it was probably just old and in need of replacement

That alone leads me to believe that you just have a bad connection on one of the battery cables... as Max said, check the connections starting at the battery. Can you twist the terminals on the battery's posts? If you can then tighten them up... but not before you remove both of them and clean the insides of the terminals and the battery's posts. (do this even if you cannot twist them) If that does not work follow the black one (Negative) back to were it connects to the body and/or engine block and make sure everything is clean were they make contact. Then move on to the Red (Positive) cable, that runs down he the starter.. make sure it has a good clean connection

wow, sounds like it was a good (meaning fun) trip... happen to have any photos?

After months with a dead or no battery at all (nine months since it last ran) I don't think there were any But yeah, I will check them now that it has run for a while I did find a fault with the FSM.. the vacuum line layout diagrams leave something to be desired. I think I have them right, but you never know. If someone with a 2DR (TBI VG30i) has the time, it would be great if they could write up the proper layout for them

Nice.. looking forward to the ends results

There are also Rough Country and Superlift Other than the finish both RC and SL UCA's are the same (Superlift makes them) Many people here have them. To order either call them directly. *You only need the UCA's from that picture (That is a Hardbody kit pictured) EDIT: Here is a picture of my Superlift Arms (again same as RC's just different finish EDIT: After I posted I noticed that Justin did include Rough Country's.. but now you have the Superlift info and pictures

I have never heard of the need to use a "special" filter for synthetic oil

Right on man.. told you, you could do it

So she took a breath of life and her heart started beating once again. It was a bit of a fight, she spit and sputtered and tried to kill me with the foul cloud of stench that she emitted from her back end.. but she's alive and kicking once again. After a few minutes of smoking it stopped... of course I had to run in and get box fan even after opening the garage doors (no wind for the first time in a week or so). Must remember to get a an exhaust vent hose for the garage.. by chance does anybody know if something from Home Depot will work for that? Idle is high and after warmed up is started surging from 1750 down to about 1200. I did discover one thing thou.. the RPMs would stabilize at 1500 if I had the AC on. Tomorrow I plan on picking up some vacuum line and replacing all of them. Looks like I am also going to have to buy a new battery for it too. I ended up using the Yota's because the Paths would not take a charge, I'll let it sit on the charger all night and part of tomorrow before I label it as dead. Oh and one more minor thing... the fan clutch engaged the first time what seemed to be a little late... but once it did it cycled on and off normally. Any suggestions on the above are welcome

Even if you can get it off with the timing belt on you risk getting coolant on the belt. Coolant can breakdown the belt which would later lead to the belt breaking.. and if you are not sure what that means.. well lets just say that you will likely be in for a whole new engine or serious rebuild

Yes, they are basically the same job... while in there you might as well put a new timing belt on... unless you just changed it.

I could be wrong but I am betting that if he invested in the disconnects then he probably wants to keep them on the truck for normal driving

Ouch... That sucks John Boy, be safe and change that belt

Trailmaster makes a 4in lift that drops the mounting points of the front diff and rear of the torsion bars. They also provide spacers to raise the backend of the truck to match. This one is up for debate.. some say it is bad because it increases body roll (however many who have installed 2-3in BL's say there is little or no difference in the amount of body roll) Others claim that it is better than a suspension lift because it keeps the center of gravity down (because you are only raising the body and not the entire frame) Yes it is as simple as that.. you get yourself a set of Jeep Grand Cherokee FRONT Coils, cut the top coil off (or heat and bend it) then install them in the back of your Pathy. That lifts the rear, you then crank the Torsion Bars to raise the front end. In this case it is usually best to also replace the UCA's (Upper Control Arms) to bring the geometry of the front suspension back within tolerances and help limit wear on the ball joints.JGC Coils can be found in wrecking yards for as little as $20 in some areas. Bought new I think they are running around $100, but I may be wrong on that price Refer to the Trailmaster lift option above.

You might also check local wrecking yards... sometimes to get lucky and find good or even nearly new parts like that for dirt cheap I found a Pathy once that had brand new rear brakes... everything was new even the drums. For less than $30 I had new rear brakes

Ahh I see, the 4.5 was an estimate of what you needed to fit the tires you want to run? Look around the site and you will find that many will tell you 3+3 (3in suspension & 3in body) for a 33in tire. Some have run 33's with less lift (only 3in) but of them I think most (if not all) will recommend against it. There are a number of way's to lift a Pathy... body, spring, diff drop or a combination of them any of them

Is this the one you are thinking about? It's not a Pathy but..., Mission to kill a truck

Quit Post Whoring Dan!

Yes the Terrano and the Pathfinder are the same rig. the red one above is the Terrano II (different vehicle all together). Its not unlike what other companies do.. they have a North American name then a name that holds true throughout most of the rest of the world. Like my 83 Toyota Truck is a HiLux to the rest of the world (the current Tacoma is also a HiLux). The HiLux name was dropped in the mid 70s here in the US. The SUV version of the same model line here is the 4Runner, elsewhere it is the HiLux Surf. Automakers just feel that a different name is often needed in the US and Canada for a model to be successful. Unless I am mistaken GM sells their products under a completely different brand name.. it is Holden in Australia unless I am missing something

Not sure how well it would work on these trucks, but how about disconnecting only one? Owners of other trucks take that approach

That is a custom setup for sure! I like the earth digger in the front As for LP or Cal, I will hold my opinions on that as I have not yet come to my own conclusion. There are some on this board that have one or the other... I am sure they will post up there experiences with each

Theres one ^^^ Calmini has one too... Duffman has that setup, ask him about it. Who was it? Its been awhile since I have been to ACs board

Yeah dude, it looks good

If your hard on the trail.. consider steering as an important upgrade... unless a SA is in the near future

Call around local wrecking yards for an idea of the cost for a good used one in your area. Rebuilding it will cost one of two things... either the money to have a shop do it or the time for you to do it yourself. Are you capable of undertaking such a project yourself? A good replacement from a wrecking yard may be your best bet, if you can afford to have someone do it or are able to swap them yourself. As for the radiator one from a wrecking yard should do just fine... as long as they guarantee that it is good (not clogged and does not leak) Yes AC can be retrofitted to R134a.. there is debate on what must be done however. Some say you can just get the retro kit from the parts store, some say the seals must also be changed and others will say hard parts have to be swapped out... I would recommend that you investigate that and come to your own conclusion before buying anything