RedPath88

Life of the tread of the tire... the BFG MT's on the Yota and two of the BFG AT's on the path are covered by lifetime (if we cant fix it, we'll replace iit) waranties from Discount Tire It's a link too ^ The "3 years" part seems new, I do not recall that when I bough the yota's tires.. will have to look at the original paperwork for them. If that is the case then they have been out of warranty for many years now

That's good to know... Have to put it all back together (the truck) and tested it out? And are the trannys the same model number... important to know because of material internal component quality and exact gear ratios

Once again a member of this board offers up more help that you would likely find elsewhere:Aok: JJ Excellent idea and I commend you greatly on your offer to help. stikky p, this may seem like a risk but JJ is a good man and a longtime member of the board... a little in shipping could end in a ton of money saved or at the least confirmation that your ECU is functioning properly

Drivers side door jam there should be a riveted on ID plate that also contains stock tire information. This plate will also list the month and year the truck was assembled... for example my 1988 Pathfinder was made 06/88

Trial and error.. or measure everything twice before buying. The hardest part will be to find something that will properly fit the rear.

Main Pulley? Meaning the Crankshaft pulley? (bottom of the engine where all the belts run) If that is the case then the leak could be the water pump or one of a couple hoses... there is a troublesome little one at the top of the engine right behind and below where the top of the timing belt crosses.. it is a bypass hose iirc at the T-Stat housing. If you are leaking there then search around a little, Slick did a write up of some sort on it. It's a common place for the VG engines to leak and is a PITA to get too (I did mine while the engine was out )

I have towed my Pathy twice and had it towed twice :o is that love or what! Once it was done by a towing company and he gave me two choices... 1 A Flatbed truck 2 I remove the rear driveline and he would use a standard tow truck... he would not tow it with two on the ground if I did not remove the driveline... for the same reasons pointed out above. The three other times it has been towed (why oh why do I put up with this thing ) it was done with a tow dolly and I had the rear tires on the ground. The first time I was dragging the rear tires when I first started moving but could not figure out why... In that instance and every other I unbolted the rear driveline and secured it up and forward (to prevent it from working out of the transfer case. So yeah given my experiences, the fact that the manual and the truck driver both say NO to towing on two wheels is enough for me. I will not do it if I do not have too and if I must I will disconnect the driveline again -thnkboutit-

I will go on the assumption that you are swapping the frame and possibly some runner gear components, but are leaving everything on the body of your original truck intact. If that is the case then you should use your disk brake setup (lets not forget that disks are preferred my most anyway ) The major difference, aside from the disk/drums, is the Master Cylinder. If you do decide to use the drum equipped axle then you will need to swap the master cylinders too. I feel like I am missing something here (maybe the proportioning valve - but I think the MC handles all of that in these trucks) Someone else will jump in if I am

Looks good, but I have to wonder about the same thing as above ^^^ Oh and something seems to be blocking the right half of your tach... I would like to see a close up of what ever that is sly

My 88 Manual does not recommend towing a 4WD model with ANY wheels touching the ground, they recommend tow dolly be used on the wheels touching the ground [one end up, the other on a dolly(wheel carts)] From the manual: And congrats opn the Titan, my brother has one... nice trucks

Lowrider, are you near enough to the border to make a trip down? And if so do you know anyone down here you could have the items shipped too? Now if you can do the above, would the cost savings be worth it or would they charge you at the border? As for gas... you pay about 3.53USD which is not far off the 3.10-3.30that we are paying down in my area. I have heard that some places around here are even above that angry:

Although that was a joke, it was based in reality as I have run several ways of doing it through my head.. not just leafs This is something that I have thought about for a long time... also a 4WIS setup (See your not the only one who thinks IFS has some worth)

Very good - I fixed your smiley. - D.

Thanks, I'll look into that aswell... if that is not what 88 used

Since I have a manual I cannot say for sure, but I would venture to say that the bolt pattern for the mating surface is the same (or close) between the two and in that case... yes, because the starter bolts (on a manual) go through the tranny case, the tranny bracket bolted to the side of the engine and thread into the starter case. According to PartsAmerica.com and RockAuto.com, about $100 +core and up

Here is a picture of them.... They are the same exact arms as Rough Country's (I can legitimately say this having owned both now ) However, I think the RC units are "nicer" than the SL ones. The SL arms are rougher, they have edges that could or should have been hit lightly with a grinder and some splatters from welding that could have been removed before the nickel plating was done. The RC arms may actually be the same way, but since they are coated they are "cleaner" looking and feeling (even though the coating is rough by design) But I also think that the SL ones will maintain their appearance longer because the nickel coating will not chip like the one RC uses will. Still, it is my honest opinion that you cannot go wrong with either set of arms, Both are the same where it counts And many people have these arms and as far as I know have had no trouble with them in the long run I may paint these ones... Aaron, what type of paint did you use and how well is it holding up?

From '89 FSM Rear of T-Bars: Remove Adjusting nut Move dust cover, then detach snap ring from anchor arm. Front of T-Bars Remove torque arm fixing nuts, then remove torsion bar spring forward with torque arm

***Update #2*** Recieved the arms from Superlift today, they are much better (meaning that they are welded properly, but I am sure they checked them before shipment) However, I returned everything and only got a set of arms back. But a simple call to SL corrected that, the parts bag is on it's way

Good point Dan... lowrider, I forgot that you were in Canada Post revised with the addition of Canadian values

Not all of them If you can find an ECU that you can try (hopefully free to try) I would REALLY recommened it, if for nothing else but to rule it out. -thnkboutit- I too changed the injectors and it resulted in nothing but wasted money (even after being cut a hell of a deal on them)

Nice job man

If that is the case this seller may be bidding his or her own autcion up.. or having friends do it for them.

Look on the bright side Slick... most people only consider themselves poor when they want something that they cannot afford. So, if you stop wanting things, you won't see yourself as being so poor

And by that, he means "upper" control arms

1997 : NISSAN : PATHFINDER SE : 3.3L 3275cc V6 MFI (A) [VG33E] : Exhaust : Exhaust Manifold