RedPath88

Didn't you just take the old ones out and put in some new mice? Like in February or something??? 94PG: Good to hear that you figured the fan out

The more you describe the problems and the progression of them, the more it seems just like the ones I was experiencing not long after I bought my truck. I have not mentioned it because it was unlikely that your problem is the same, but again it is sounding more and more like it. I went through many of the same problems and over a period of time it steadily got worse. Starting as just a slight hesitation at 2500RPM and ending with it being undrivable because it would not stay running.. and like yours it would run fine for the first 10-maybe 30 seconds then the fight was on to keep it running. I trouble shot timing, fuel pump (even replaced one I was sure was good) took it to a shop for diagnosis and was told that the distributor was bad. Replaced it after a local parts girl I used to work with gave me a huge break on a reman unit, only to have NOTHING change in the way it ran. Even the fuel regulator and about everything mentioned in this thread. The whole time I had a thought.. a feeling that I knew what it was, but instead I went with what other said because they "doubted" that I was right. Finally a friend of mine was using the Ft. Lewis (Army Base) facility to swap a 454 into his Chevy (in place of a 350) and got to talking to a guy who was a diehard Nissan man. He had me write down everything it did from day one and everything I had done to it (in order) and took it to him. He commended my efforts and said that I did everything that under normal circumstances you "should" do, but he said that it did not seem to be "normal" and said that he completely agreed with my belief that it was the computer that was bad. That was really what I needed, someone to agree with me for once. With a little searching and a ton of luck, I found an identical ECU in a wrecking yard for under $100 (most places wanted at least $250). Took it home, plugged it in and turned the key, she started right up (first crank) and ran perfectly! As it turned out, I had wasted a ton of money because I did not go with my gut feeling right from the beginning pssd Now I cannot say for sure that this is the problem with your truck, just figured I would toss it out. The idea of buying a replacement is not typically a cheap one... maybe you know someone with an identical truck (2Door/VG30i same transmission) that would allow you to try it before to fork over the money on something you might not need, but with that there is always the risk of your truck damaging the good computer.

Thats good news... great dad Keep us posted

Dan... Ryan

No biggy.. honestly it is a long thread, you guys might consider joining to read it

A Teaser...

Yup, to much is a bad thing... drain the extra -thnkboutit-

Not Me! BTW, I am a member of that board

That's odd, because the oil pan has a little sleeve that the dip stick/cable slides down into. It prevents the cable from angling off and also prevents splashing of the oil, giving an inaccurate reading... though the engine should not be running so slashing should not be an issue anyway.

QX4

Based on t0ast's description you will have a grommet to go through, that is the same as the WD21's. the thing is that you will be trying to stuff a big connector through a little hole (I kept it as small as possible) and if the R50's are like the WD21's then working space will be an issue... but yeah you can do it

PartsAmerica.com lists 12 items ranging from $8 to $73 I don't recall the brand of the one I installed but they are not hard to put in... as t0ast said, it's the routing that is the most difficult part. But again, not to hard

The Chilton's is wrong. Take a look. http://nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refgh0v/...thfinder/EC.pdf The Exhaust Gas Sensor is the Heated Oxygen Sensor Chilton's (Chapter 4, page 14): Haynes (Chapter 1, Section 49): The Nissan Factory Service manuals refer to it as the "Exhaust Gas Sensor" in early manuals (based on my 1989 FSM) and as a "Heated Oxygen Sensor" in later manuals (Based on the 1995 FSM) Both Chilton's and Haynes strive to make the best combination of all systems throughout the year range, as a result there are some flaws in it. In this case they both say that it is located in the exhaust manifold and make no reference to the exhaust pipe location that we all know. Although not completely accurate they are not wrong either, they just supplied half of the info. It is true that our VG30 sensors are located in the pipe, but the Z24i's have them in the manifolds. They also use the codes from early FSM's while using the more commonly known name of "Oxygen Sensor" (or "Heated Oxygen Sensor") that Nissan switched to in later Factory Service Manuals. At least Haynes did link the two names together by making reference to the old name along side the new... even though it was easy to miss

You need to start by pulling or having the codes pulled from the computer... one of the R50 owners will chime in on this

Left hand brake caliper stuck open. Check the brakes all the way around

Nice! What size did you go with?

Damn dude, that sucks...Glad your ok, it could have been so much worse!

Yup, they are

Looks like you all had a good time

Buy a wrecked '79-85 Yota.. lots of parts (Axles, TCase, rear and/or front driveshaft if geometry works out. etc) and less money You can get a LockRight for under $250 (280CAD) ARB up front? Why not another mechanical locker? BTW ARB's can be found for WAY less than $1200, How does $734(822CAD) sound? Trail Gear Or does your price including the extras? $399 - $449 (467-503CAD)Marlin Crawler *Depends on the amount of custom work required* Many create their own steering setups... If a Toyota HiSteer/CrossOver setup can be used they range in price... here is one for $349 (391CAD) Front Range Off-Road At this point I have to ask... Why not just buy a solid axle Toyota ('79-'85 Truck or an '84-'85 4Runner) and toss a V6 in it? Or an '88+ Toyota V6 and throw a SA under the front? *If a V6 is what you want* You can get the kit needed to mount the axle to the frame for around $200 (224CAD) (not including springs, steering, axle, etc)

Build a new lower IFS frame and hang it from leaf springs, then you have IFS with some of the articulation of a solid design

Decisions, decisions :confused:

There are several way's to lift it (Trailmaster kit, replacement lift coils, JGC coils or Ford coils and UCA, etc), you need to research each and make your decision. A body lift is up to you on how much... Do you have a side shot of your truck? If so use an image editing program to "lift" it 2in then 3in and see what you like best

All you need and all you can use there are the UCA's.. well I guess the shocks too but get them from 4wheelparts

His truck is not either one of those