RedPath88

*Were losing Venge to the dark side... Dan, go get in your PATHY and go wheeling now.... it will help

Well, technically its rubbing the lower washer and brace and not the actual arm itself... I know I can adjust the stops, but have not done so because it's not a big problem.. it barely touches and I don't typically turn to lock anyway. I will see how it is after I install the JGCC, RC UCA's and swap the wheels out with another set I have.. If it's still doing it then I probably will.

I am not aware of any difference between the suspensions with the SE's.. and not all SE's came with 31's Mine was wearing 235/75-15, from the factory. I put 31/10.5's on and did nothing to the suspension... they work fine. I get a "little" rub on my idler arm but I think that is simply because I am using the stock chrome wheels while I believe most, if not all the trucks that came with 31's stock used the optional wheels. The little bit of rub that I do get is at left hand steering lock, but is not enough to cause concern... You should be fine

Good that you found the problem... and now is the perfect time to upgrade all the way around sly Oh and to clean it up

I think the way Trainman meant you could make money with them, would be by selling ad space on them -thnkboutit-

iirc the very bottom of the shroud... along the rounded section is removable... I think this is what they are referring too. But I may be wrong as even though I have a body lift sitting in my closet (for the past several years ) I have never installed one

Cool, glad everything went well

Yes Vsicks is right... installing relays in the headlights system to move the main power out of the switch, is a far better way of powering them... It is something Nissan should have done in the first place... would have saved me a chunk of change!

*snicker* They did that the moment the sent the real second generation Pathfinder... umm, I mean... "Xterra" concept into production sly

That's right (at least in the WD21's anyway), it also makes for an expensive replacement... speaking from experience I "tweaked" it till it could not be tweaked anymore, then I had no other choice but to replace it

If the fan is turning on and off as it always has then the sensor should be fine, but it cannot hurt to look anyway... "Sensor Rod" is for the lack of the proper term (just cannot remember the right name for it now). It is the metal (brass?) rod with a couple of electrical contacts on it which is pushed through the radiator fins and secured in place. It detects the temperature and either supplies or cuts the power to the relay (which in turn provides power to the fan motor) Another thought... Is your cooling system becoming over pressurized? Does the water/coolant in the overflow reservoir ever overflow or boil? If so you may have a blown head gasket.

I remember this now... Pezzy, care to elaborate (maybe with pics?)

These questions may have been asked before, but... Is your fan working correctly? Any wires disconnected or loose... have you checked and rechecked all the connections to make sure (if disconnected) that they were hooked back up the proper way after the T-Belt replacement? Is the relay working correctly? Anything damaged (wires/relay/sensor rod/etc)?... was the fan physically reinstalled properly? Could it be binding? Can you hear it turn on and off... is it doing this correctly?

I am thinking that the mud may have saved him from extensive damage to the side of the Fronty... Am I right, how much was there?

Yeah you definatly would not want to do that before installing manual locking hubs

AS I have said before, you have a sweet Pathy... keep them pics coming, every chance you get

Dear Slick... it was there when I posted. That would have been three posts before yours

Not the greatest description, but might be worth a call Body Lift Block 2''x3'' (1/pkg) $4.69 Body Lift Block 3''x3'' (1/pkg) $6.99

To Boot or Not To Boot, that is.... a question that is often up for debate On one side, you have the argument that the boots protect the shaft from scratches and keep dirt and grim away from the seals. On the other, is the belief that the boot actually increases the damage done to seals once something does enter boot... by not letting it out. As you said the boots are not sealed... so stuff can get in. One reason they are not sealed is to allow drainage of any water that gets in. Also, if they were sealed then they would not be so willing to compress with the shock/strut. I think it boils down to what type of off-roading you do and how hardcore you are. The more you jump into mud holes the more crap will get into and stay inside the boot. But in the case of desert running/beach driving, they may actually help more by having them on by letting less sand get to the seals. My Yota has Trailmaster SSV's and I installed them with the boots, 9 or 10yrs ago (soon after the SSV's hit the market) and they still work perfectly. With the Nissan I chose to not install the boots on its ProComp ES3000's... Why? because I really do not think it will hurt... I know several people who, like 88, have been running bare shocks for years and they have had no issues because of it. Bottom line.. " Leave Them" as you should be alright, in my opinion

SLOPOKE, So what are you going to do with the old engine? Specifically the crankshaft?

Looks much like another one that was on ebay a while back... and kinda like mine "someday"

Fair enough

Pictures!

That great, that it's running good again Not sure about the forum problem, it has it's spells but nothing that lasts that long

hahaha Water fights.. with an edge