RedPath88

Everything is made better with pictures... umm, well "almost" everything anyway

I am guessing that you talking about the Superlift arms? If soo.... Then the Rough Country arms that we have been talking about (less expensive but price going up, trying to get a deal, etc.) are actually rebranded Superlift arms. They are, other than in name and color, the same items Or were you referring to something else?

Post updated, see above.

For any one in the are looking for a set of coils... I was at AAA in Auburn today and they had 4-6 sets of them in the yard. Customer has to pull them but they are only asking $10 a coil. Just a heads up everyone. EDIT: These were mostly on 4.0L trucks. but recent talk has pointed to the 6cyl & V8 trucks as having the same springs up front. I just did a quick search on an online parts store (www.schucks.com part of www.partsamerica.com) and the same part numbers were listed for each engine option. Based on that it should not matter what engine is in the Cherokee that the springs are pulled from... but take it as you see fit

I'll agree to the Heli-Coil tip and to GrimGreg's suggestion, which might end up being the less expensive alternative Both wil work out just find

:::sigh::: it can be frustrating taking a vehicle in for something like that. A while after I bought my truck I took it in and they came back with, the distributor needs replaced. And until then we can tell you nothing... that will be $130 please. And for a mere 7-800 hundred more we can replace that distributor for you... that's an estimate and not a set price.. oh and it's going to be 2-4 weeks before it will be done! I replaced it myself, and it made zero difference to the way the truck ran I hate shops :furious:

I can second that... my yota has manual hubs and I can shift to 4HI at basically any speed IF AND WHEN the manual hubs are locked in. The Pathy with auto hubs however cannot be done at higher speeds

Yeah, I'm still

ummmm... ok Is it possible that you just dripped some motor oil down into the cylinders?

Well at least you don't have to pay full price for a retest And I agree on your point about failing the first one... as long as they follow the rules on the first one and don't change any on the second, you will know what needs to be fix and just what can "wait" till later.

Man that sucks... the guy probably hates 4x4's (bet he drives a minivan) If you can... have you checked into more friendly inspection yards? Perhaps there is info on the net as to places that are more forgiving to 4x4? As deej said, a lot of times it depends on the person and the day that person is having

The Haynes manual will serve you well for this... I don't recall any one thing standing out as something unusual when I have pulled the heads from my truck. It's fairly straight forward really, you should not have ay trouble... and if by chance you do, we are here.. just as MZ said

I'll second that motion

Geeze guy's, just beat the crud out of the new guy! yeah the pics are big and do need to be resized, I think he gets it now Can a mod please resize them... I would, but I can't

I've seen (had) a cam break too

Crap, that brings something to mind... for those who might recall I was having issue with the way my Path was running. then it just died. Turned out to be they crankshaft keys destroying the keyway's in the crank... check them key's! I know it's not likely your problem but hey, it happened to me and you "don't" want the result I ended up with

Man that sucks... I've broken many a tool as well

Did not notice, but it would seem to be gas powered. Don't know though, as I have never used one

Here you go MM, I was actually on HarborFreight.com when I read Mr. P's post lol PLASTIC WELDING KIT On sale now for $35.99 PLASTIC WELDING RODS, 50 PC. $4.99

Like the transfer case

RainX is great stuff, I have a bottle of some pink colored "RainX PLUS" washer fluid additive. I have not seen it in stores in ages but I hope to find more before I run out. It's mixed at 2oz to 1 gallon and every time you use your washers it reapplies RainX to the windshield. The stuff works great. Yeah there are several spots on I5 that can mess with bigger tires and narrower vehicles. Down south, between Longview and Centrailia, used to be REALLY bad... but they fixed that area. Now if they will just fix everywhere else

If you have a tach, take a look at how high it's running when you are doing 30mph in 4Lo Do you really want to push the engine to any higher RPM? That and the 4WD Low was meant to give low speed crawling power, it was never designed to be driven at high speed. That's what 4Hi is for (but not too high of speed) If you force it (4Lo) at higher speeds your going to break something

yep, eventually to learn to except them as battle scares... something to be proud of

You just have to disconnect a couple wire harnesses, remove a few hoses (vacuum, Fuel and coolant), the throttle cable (cable"s" if you have cruise control) and then it's just a matter of removing four nuts and lock washers. It's not really hard at all. Break the seal of the old gaskets, clean it up- and reinstall with the new gaskets and heater (unless you reuse the old "modified" one) If you get a new one, the gaskets will come with it. If you reuse the old one then you can get new gaskets from a parts store. No one seems to list them but if they are willing to make calls then they can be dug up... or if you have the part number, they can pull them right up on the computer Niehoff Flange Gasket #27729 Comes with both gaskets (intake manifold to heater and heater to throttle body) and costs only a few bucks.

Yeah silicone will work, but if you use to much it will make it a PITA getting it apart later... also a lot of clean up later on... but again, it will work