RedPath88

Nice and clean... so when are you going to get it dirty again?

My original engine has a timing mark on the oil pump, but the new one does not.. well it does have a mark, but you cannot see it unless you get right down on top of it. Not something you could really do with the engine in the truck

I just pulled mine and was able to without dropping the diff... You need to get the tranny to move far enough back to allow you to get a wrench in there and unbolt the clutch pressure plate. After that it came out easy for me.

I bet Slick would beg to differ on that point

That's how I win most of the things I bid on

Yeah, I used to have a Kyosho "Double Dare" It was a 4WD/4WS twin motor Nissan Hardbody Monster Truck... loved that thing lol The one above would be cool to have too

Call around to all the local Nissan dealers if you are ordering the balancer (or any other Nissan part) yourself... in my experience, around here the price of any given item can very greatly from dealer to dealer.

:cool2: Congrats Slick!

Oh sorry, I was referring to the grade

These alway's appear when I don't have the extra cash for them

Check your shocks to see if any oil has leaded out of them... are they coated in old oil, or wet dirt and road grim? Mine did mush of the same thing and in my case it was the shocks that were bad and in need of replacement. If you happen to have the chance, have someone drive next to you on a higher speed limit road, like a hwy and have them watch your tires for excessive bounce. When mine first started doing that, it was noticeable from outside but did not "really" change the ride all that much. Another way to check would be to remove the shocks and compress/extend them by hand.. no or little resistance indicates that they need replaced

Get some brake cleaner and if needed degreaser, scrub up the area all around you brake caliper and lines. Then trace it back when there is fresh brake fluid there again.

I agree in that you should wait till the lift is done... not only for the strength factor but also why cause yourself rework? As for the grade, for something that will be submitted to so much stress I would go with 8+.. even if it's overkill in some peoples eyes, its piece of mind while you pull that stuck Chevy out :::Hears Slick creeping up behind... ducks for cover :::

Welcome back

The extraction as a success.. so much so that I was inspired to remove all of the remaining 10 studs. *A propane torch, hammer and patients are your friends Tomorrow I will see if I can track down replacements. Any advice? I have never had tyo replace exhaust studes before sooo.. should I wait till Monday and go directly to the dealer for Nissan parts, is what the parts stores have of equal quality?

I don't have any really good pics, but I will see what I can come up with. I am currently working on extracting the two exhaust studs that broke off in the LH head... the two of them were both on the front cylinder I'll take a look at the tranny again and see if I can come up with some sort of diagram for you that details the direction that I used to get to all the bolts. Just remember a long socket extension (I bought a 20in'er) and a u-join adapter will be your best friends during this process

Here you go B ________vroom... vroom...

I have had this picture of one of them for some time now

:cool2: Glad to hear it went easy for you.

Yeah I just did that on the replacement engine. I had two pullers, one was destroyed while pulling the HB off of the original engine some time ago, when I found the damage to the crank. The other? Well it will probably turn up anytime now... you know, because I don't need it anymore pssd

Yeah I agree with those above.. I like it. Good job

Agreed :::Speaks from experience:: that was how I did the first timing belt on my Pathy... outside, at night and in the cold Not something I want to do again

Lets see.. a bucket or pan to drain coolant, allen head wrench for adjusting the tensioner (don't recall the exact size)... by "standard" you do mean a typical set of "metric" wenches and sockets... right? But most importantly.. more time. If you need the truck to get to work tomorrow or anywhere else, then don't do it until you have at least the next day off. Based on how you asked I am assuming you have never done this before... I highly recommend allowing yourself more time to get the job done.. and done right It's typically only a 4-6hr job, depending on how familiar one is with the engine... but allowing a time "buffer" on your first time is not a bad idea. Things like stuck or broken bolts can occur, though not too likely. Allowing time to "walk away" if you get frustrated is always a good idea. If you don't give yourself that extra time and end up in a hurry to get it done, then mistakes are more likely to happen Can't seem to think of anything else right now, But I am sure something will come to mind... or others will chime in on this.

After some time delay's the engine is out.. now I need to swap a few parts from the old engine to the new one. Hoping for tomorrow or Saturday to begin the install of the replacement.