RedPath88

750lbs Engine Stand - $39.99 1000lbs Engine Stand - $54.99 Harbor Freight - Texas Locations I have the 750lbs (and I think Slick has the same one) and it handled a VG30 with no problems. The main bonus, other than the extra 250lbs capacity to the second one is the twin wheels up front. That gives a little better stability when moving it around. But again, I had no trouble with the 750lbs model HF has sales all the time on the 750lbs model. Right now my local flyer lists the 2000lbs model on sale for $79.99 (normally $109.99) If you sign up for email specials they send out coupons all the time too. Typical ones are $5 off $35 or more 10% off entire purchase 20% off a single item (Sometimes 25% off) These are valid on current sale prices too. That is how I got my engine hoist for under $115 before state sales tax. (On sale for $150 plus a 25% off coupon)

So, did it work for you?

I think what most are getting at here is that you may need to evaluate your driving style, adjust where necessary and see if it gets any better. I see a lot of people try and drive SUV's like they are sports cars, usually just gets them in trouble and pisses off other drivers.

Yeah, that is just nuts!

Umm MZ, TBI is also EFI I think you mean from TBI to MPFI And that was in '90 2Doors (87-89) are TBI while the 4Doors (90-95) are MPFI *I do not know about the few 2Door 90's out there, but I would suspect that they are also TBI

One of the first things you should do if you have an Auto, is to install an after market transmission cooler. Completely eliminate the stock one because they clog up over time and take out the tranny. Many people have learned this the hard way, don't be one of them... put a new one in ASAP

Almost, if not all "Terrano's" are right hand drive afaik. "Pathfinders" were only sold in North America, and as far as I know, are all left hand drive *Whether the name starts with a T or a P they ar the same basic vehicle, all are WD21's

Welcome Deputy.... and I'll just agree with ^^^ rather than repeat

Yeah bad ground, or a loose/dirty connection, hopefully you will have thousands more miles before this comes up again

Ok I installed the Quest Alternator today. But first let me say, anyone considering this mod read 88's How-To Swapping the stock VG30 engined Pathfinder 60 amp alternator with a Quest/Villager 110 amp alternator. He gives all the info needed to do it there However I decided to go about it a little differently, because I wanted to keep my bracket in it's original condition so it could be kept in the truck as an emergency back up. I also did not want to modify the alternator unless I had too. While I was at the wrecking yard pulling an alternator an idea struck me about possibly using the Quest/Villager alternator support bracket. I hoped that it would end up just being a bolt on process, but there was one thing that I was fairly sure would prevent it from working that way... I was pretty sure that the bracket would interfere with the belt.. and it did :sniff: But I was able to get this installed with a little modification to the Quest bracket, a new bolt from the parts store and no mods to the alternator at all. I cut down the bracket reshaped the end and drilled a new hole. Then while mounting the bracket I stood it off of the engine block and alternator mounting hole using quite a few washers as spacers (temporary) and a new bolt at the block mounting location. Quest / Villager Bracket This pic shows the section that I cut off - sorry no images of the finished (cut and shaped) bracket - I will have it off again later, I'll snap some then if anyone wants them And here are some images of it installed You have to use two longer bolts for the bracket, the one that goes into the alternator is simple, just keel the bolts from the mini van when you pull the alternator. You will probably have to pick the other one up from the parts store, this is for mounting the bracket to the engine block. I got a 1.25 thread pitch, 8mm x 90mm, which was a little longer than needed. The bolt cost around $1.50 Solid Snake, although I used an angle grinder with a cut off and grinding disks, the modification to the bracket would be done with a hacksaw and a metal file... Oh and a drill for putting the new hole in. Although it is very sturdy and I think it's fine I would still like opinions on this in case I am missing something... anyone believe that in the long term that it could have problems? And please note that the washers/spacers are only temporary, I plan on making some solid one piece spacers. I will also likely have the one that mounts at the block welded to the bracket.

Very nice Pezzy is right about shifting the transfer case

I am actually going to be trying something a little different with the Quest alty that I picked up for $15 bucks (tested good) last weekend, and if it works as I hope, it will be bolt in *crosses fingers I am aiming for this weekend and if I am able to get it done I'll let you know

I have used the fiberglass repair kit (roving and high temp resin) it worked fine. Just make sure you clean and sand the pipe around the hole EXTREMELY well before you apply it. The better prepped the pipe, the better seal you will get and the longer it will last. Get it on nice and snug and do not drive through water for "at least" 24hrs (48+ is better) or it will compromise the patch. Resulting in a poorer seal and a patch that will degrade much much faster.

Hello and Welcome... perhaps this sould be in the "New People Start Here!" section Oh well.. They are cheap just change it, then you KNOW when it needs it again

We've covered this with you many times Jay -thnkboutit-

Good to hear that is is a cheap fix (save the towing) might be a good time to replace both cables from end to end as well

Yeah as they said above, that is some extreme rust you have going on there! Replace the parts and if it were me, I would not tocuh anything until I had all the parts and was ready to do the swap... or park it until it could be fully fixed. Is the rest of the trucks underside like that?

^^ Whatever! I have some 6ton Harbor Freight jacks(4) stands and a Craftsman 3ton floor jack. Overkill? yeah maybe, but at least I know that this beast will not come down on me due to underrated lift/support equipment Mr P, check Schucks, for something like that shown above. Advanced Auto is affiliated with Parts America, just not as closely as Schucks is

Interesting, please update us on how it runs, considering hte ratio differences. Hopefully it does stay within the engines power band

Yes, if you can get the bolts

Double posting Yeah the brake light could simply be the parking prake cable as SS noted above. My light comes on when the brake lever is lifted just a little bit... is the brake lever all the way down on your truck? It's a simple mistake

You know what Jay... go with what you are comfortable with. You seem to be set on getting new T-Bars even though you may not "need" them. Which is perfectly ok if that is what you really want to do. You also seem to be a bit uncomfortable buying the lift components separately, like many people do. If buying a prepackaged "Kit" (aka a collection of the same separate parts, sold together) makes you feel better, then go that route and be done with it

Jay you isolated that one line from the rest of the post, it was refering to what was directly above it... If any given suspension part does not need to be changed (other than your lift components) then save your money and don't change a good part

Jay, call rough country for the some arms (same as SuperLift) or *will insert a link here after I find it * Your link: UCA's ---*Someone changed the title and made it harder to find --- That links to a post of mine that I made in responce to one of yours -thnkboutit- Call local tire/suspension shops in your area and see if they offer free inspections. Less Schwab down here in the states (WA State here) will inspect brakes and suspension, tell you what is wrong or close to failure and write a quote for the repairs... all for free. Go from there, if it does not need to be changed now or in the near future, you should be ok.

I think 88 is giving these as reference, remember that some things will be different between 2 and 4 door models. Things just cannot be mounted the same way in the sidewalls