RedPath88

Well it might be, my old '88 Ford Taurus was selectable C/F RADCND, do you have the owners manaul? If not call or stop by a Nissan dealership. They should be able to tell you if someone here cannot.

Maybe your heater core was leaking at some point (before you got it). If that is the case, then hopefully the core was replaced and they did not just use a stop leak additive.

According to the Haynes Manual it is Under the Dash ok ok and "just above the steering column". Here are two examples (from www.partsamerica.com) A bare aluminum version like the yellow one is not unheard of either.

For the engine, if you have the time and space then do everything you are capable of doing yourself. And have a shop do that which you are not able to do.

First thing... Welcome to the boards (perhaps you could do an offical intro in the "New People Start here" section ) Ok a little advice about Pathfinders, trim levels and options... do not assume that it has or does not have anything, merely based on trim level or option present on it ...Nissan did not have any well defined lines for trim levels. There are XE's that have more options than some SE's. And not all SE's were created equally either Not sure if all trucks with rear disks had LSD's but there are many LSD equipped Pathys that do not have rear disks The questions of whether the rear carrier is worth it is a matter of opinion.. some like them some do not... what's your opinion? A solid mount roof rack could be added with a little work... I added one to my truck (it's not even a Nissan rack) Well depending one when you want the wheels, I could probably give up the set I currently have on my truck. (I live in Yelm, WA - Near Olympia) I just need to get the replacements prepped.

Is there a coolant line back or near there that could be leaking? I had a mystery leak on mine (TBI) and the coolant settled on top of the intake manifold. I cleaned up all the coolant, started and let it run for a while. Once it began leaking again I was able to trace it down to one of the lines that runs to/from the throttle body. (just a weak hose clamp)

Which is a shade of "Red" Or wait til later and vote Black *The "Red" on the Poll covers several different colors.

Solid mounted roof racks are easy to add (I added one to mine) And removable ones are even easier

Oh and if you disconnect hte rear drive shaft make sure that you have it secured up AND forward extremely well. If it drops then you are going to have some major problems. If you remove it your going to dump at least some TC fluid all over the ground.

With all four on the ground and the TC in neutral you should be fine as long as it is not a great distance or excessive speed. If you are towing with only two on the ground then disconnect the drive shaft for the end on the ground. If you have manual hubs and tow it with the front on the ground (rear on a tow dolly) then disengaging the hubs would serve just as well as removing the front drive shaft. I personally would not recommend it if you have auto hubs... because you cannot be certain that the hubs will remain disengaged.

Some of the "Direct Replacements" (cost about the same) are three wire... in that case you simply jumper/splice the single wire connector on the truck to the middle wire in the three pin connector. However, I did see one truck in a wrecking yard where the wire was not spliced. Not sure if it worked properly, but it may have. My first replacement was of the three wire sort. I had a shop do it becasue it cost only $5 or $10 more for them to get the part and install it than it would have cost me for the part (from the dealer). My second, I bought and replaced myself, it was a four wire unit.

I have not heard anything back yet... I'll send out another e-mail. Maybe I can get the contact info for the current owner.

Yeah every few months that link appears on this board... which is not a bad thing. New members get a chance to read it and long time members get a reminder

That would put you in Canada... Nevermind, just checked and found that you updated your profile.. so yeah, that places you in Canada

Was fooling around wiht the wifey, until the light came and and I saw her standing in the doorway .... then it all went black

So you were not really able to check the compression on that cylinder because the starter did not engage the flyweel?

No really, the timing was bad for that (not that something like that has a good time). So what will your story about it be, exactly?

They have them for your truck ('94) for $69.90 at oxygensensors.com. But yes you are right, it can't hurt to shop around

Multi Port Feul Injection... aka 4DR Pathy's

The MPFI O2's are cheaper

First thing that comes to mind is the O2... I have had two in my truck since I bought it, neither of them were universal. so I am not sure. A direct replacement from www.oxygensensors.com is $99.90USD (I got my second one there) *Not sure if they ship to Canada Also change that PCV valve, they cost under $10. When I bought my truck it's PCV valve was completely clogged

Turned 300,000 on the truck

Ok a bit late but as promised.... Here are some pics of the bracket as I cut and reshaped it This shows the brackets and rough cut spacers that I made for it And here is the Alt mounted with the spacers (just for pics/before I finished cleaning up the spacers and bracket) *I need a lathe and surface grinder

I agree MZ, works best for my too. And like you I was also told by some old guy... Tom Tully, my Auto Shop teacher... one of the best teachers ever

Four 12mm bolts and the seat is out... if you cannot see anything while it is still in the truck