RedPath88

Maybe the 4drs are different, but is it just the front dome light or is it the front dome AND the rear cargo light? On my 2DR the front doors trip ONLY the front light but the rear hatch turns both lights on. So... if both lights are turning on then I would agree with the above, check the rear hatch switch. But if it is only the front dome then you need to check the front switches. I do not know how the rear pass doors effect the lights in the 4drs... as I have a 2dr You might try pulling and pushing on the doors from the outside and see if you can make the light(s) flash. If you can, then you have found the problem switch

Thanks Phil Yeah and ad or two would not bother me one bit I might actually use this one once in a while... MSN group irritates the hell out of me now.. all the spam and junk

oops, I was thinking of the "front" sway bar when I said that

They are used to quickly disconnect the sway bars for offroad use (allows more flex) and easily reconnect them for on road driving (less body roll) But afaik, nobody makes quick disconnects for a Pathfinder. You may however be able to make your own, or as many have done just remove the sway bars altogether.

Glad you still have that tool set, many of us do not And I'll agree with the NGK's. I tried Autolites once and only once, my truck ran horribly. I took them out, put my old plugs (NGK) back in and back to the parts store of some new NGK's

I'll suggest it again... for simplicity's sake ImageShack.us Choosing the options circled above in RED will give the results below

Twin boy's (9yrs old). You did not know? It's not much of a secret

Dealer... www.partsamerica.com has them too

Same thing here

The Voltage Regulator is built into the alternator. In my experience, if it under charges then the Alt is bad, if it over charges the regulator is bad. If you want to upgrade to a 110, but need it now, you might consider a wrecking yard stock alternator to get you by until you can swap in a 110

Was this the Right Hand cam?

Mine broke in almost the exact same spot! (I was doing 60 down the road when it "just died") I pulled the head and called up Delta Cam in Tacoma, WA (best price I found at the time... around $75 w/o core iirc) took the head to an engine shop for ispection and it was fine. But I did end up replacing a few lifters, which may or may not have been caused by the cam breaking. Put it all back together and she fired right up as if nothing had hapened. *Also replaced the Timing belt

Although I dissagree that the 2Dr and 4Dr's are different generations, I will say, that at least with the WD21's you can visibly and easily tell which is which... even someone who knows nothing about them can tell they are different... even though they are the same damned thing Dan, what's with all the rocks and otherwise dry ground? No mud? Oh and I like who we are showing off the weak licence plate mounts on the R51's

it is after all Pathfinder(Terrano) site.. your just an exception (alone with SW) as you were already one of the family

I have heard of people getting faults reads on code 11.. have you tried clearing the codes and running it to see if acts the same and if the code returns? I have replaced the Dis. once.. not usually a cheap option

Well, then I guess I will refer you to a prior post

The simple fact that he is your borther is enough to give you grounds to "openly hate jeeps" -thnkboutit- giving each other crap is almost a rule among siblings

Unless you drive on a dirt/gravel road, don't use 4WD... not on pavement

It did for me too when I tried it again, but now it is playing again

I *just* watched it!

Here we go again

RainX in the fluid... less work, same effect

Yeah take note of what MWS said above... go with a high flow and don't just run without one

You do not "have to have" anything but replacement rear spings or spacers. BUT... it would be a good idea to get some new UCA's in addition to rear springs. And new longer rear shocks, although not "required" would be a good idea as well (longer rear shocks allow the axle more downward travel.) After market UCA's correct the ball joint angle that is messed up when the front is lifted using the stock UCA's. Without them, many (but not all) report early and more frequent failure of the upper ball joint. New Torsion Bars are not a requirement for lifting. You just crank and if need be, re-index your existing ones to get the lift. If after you do this they sag and will not maintain the lift you desire, then you look at getting new T-Bars How hard is it? Well that depends on how easily things come apart AND go back together on YOUR truck. Each is different... and many things have an effect on it.. two big factors here are, what climate(s) has your truck been in since it was built and how well taken care of was it by prior owners. Some are easier than others. Time? Again that depends partly on the condition of the truck, be prepared to dedicate a weekend to the project at least... this "should" give you extra time to deal with problems that arise. "Pissed off factor" well, that depends solely on you. People from "skilled" to those with "minimal" wrenching skills have done it. If you do, make sure you have all the parts and tools and a proper space to do the work... before you start. Also, week before you do it start hitting all the nuts and bolts that need to be removed with a good penetrating oil, like PB Blaster.

Lots of people here have.. look around and you will find information