RedPath88

LMAO @(w/) B A Stranger... yup I know what that is. The unknown people my parents used to tell me to stay clear of. And in tradition, I tell my boy's the same

Yep, start from scratch and try it again. Pretend you have not read the instructions before...you might have missed or misunderstood something the first time

You should order standard front size Ranchos. The length of the shock needed in the front does not change on the front end. The rears can be longer however. Steering stabilizers help ease feedback from the steering, absorb impacts and assist in keeping the truck going in the direction you point it. Overall it should make some improvement to your steering. With or without a stabilizer the L&P Steering Systems will improve your trucks steering... especially when you consider the mileage you have on the stock stuff. And abut the RC UCA's have you read the tread regarding them? Make sure you mention the NPORA... it often gets people a good deal

I was not going to say a word

Only one, but many people add a second one to the other side

Only two years late.. but better late than never

^^ ^^ But if you do get it on your hootus, there is info on the net to help you get it off

omg, that REALLY sucks. I trust you and any passengers are OK? What did the "other guy" look like? And we will welcome you fully back into the fold

I have to agree with Martin (and '88) HF has a lot of "good" deals, but they also have a lot of items that you need to stay clear of -thnkboutit-

I don't think that would be the case as everytime I have ever had a VR go out on me it has over charged. It under charges when the Alt goes out.

I got those images from partsamerica.com (aka Schucks, Checker, Kragen)

Good to hear you got it sorted out

At the Transfer Case. If I remember correctly the R50's (yours) have drive flanges, so the wheels never disconnect from the axles. But with the transfer case in 2H the engine does not turn the front end.

Well the Mercury Villager is the same as the Nissan Quest. Other than that, not that I know of. I hear the Nissan Maxima's 90 AMP Alt is a direct bolt in

Better view of the front axle...

wow, I talked about it but failed to connect the fact that I removed the replaement that I have from the wrecking yard Pathy... It's simple, just get the replacement and swap it out. Nothing to it.

These are the two that I was refering too... Looking for the pcitures of those, I found these as well... I also found an "Oil Dipstick Heater" (No Picture)

I busted mine at the firewall during the engine swap and af far as I can tell it's should not be to hard of a swap. Manual and Auto should be the same. A retainer of some sort (clip I think) under the dash at the pedal and two bolts at the firewall (inside the engine compartment) and you should be able to pull it out from the engine bay. I was abel to "fix" mine, so even though I have the replacement for it, it remains one of the last things on my mind

That's what I said, you just were not paying attention! *Damned MODs make things look like you screwed them up

Those aren't sliders Simon, they are handholds (think monkeybars) to help you get in. -thnkboutit- And the snorkel is to keep the intake above the exhaust of semi's while on the road

Welcome to the forums, I am sure you will find much useful information here (as you already seem to know And congrats on being one of the few who not only use, but also figured out the search function According the a 1989 FSM and a 1994 FSM the standard compression value is 173psi, while the minimum is 128psi (largest difference between the lowest and highest cylinder is 14psi)... all numbers are rated at 300rpm So if you came up with typical pressure of 120psi @ 300rpm through all six cylinders, then your engine is showing it's age. I don't recall exactly what the numbers were with my old engine (around 280K when tested) but it was much higher than that. I want to say that it was in the 150-165 range, but I cannot be sure of that

There are two types of them, the replacement freeze plug models and an inline unit that goes in the lower radiator hose. I have considered the inline one for the same reason to mentioned. It would make it nicer when leaving for work at four or five in the morning during the winter

Installing and removing snap rings duh! Snap rings are shaped like a "C" (sometimes called "C" rings but that is not truely accurate as there are real "C" rings)and have tiny little holes at both ends. The pliers compress them for installtion and removal. As for using them again... Yes/No/Maybe... but depending on what you do, Probably not I do not own a set and have actually "needed" them many times. But I have become pretty good and removing and installing snap and C rings without the pliers. Snap Ring "C" Ring

Harbor Freight (if you have one nearby) has... A set for $15.99 11 PC SNAP RING PLIER SET and a single plier with three different heads for $4.99 SNAP RING PLIER WITH INTERCHANGEABLE HEADS

So are you happy with them? Was it worth it? (What was the total cost by the time you got it installed?) And would you do it again?