RedPath88

cram some rags under it and on top of the starter

Please for the love of god... make sure it's your wife in any pictures you decide to share :o

A friend of mine had to remove his (on a yota) peice by piece ones.. he ripped it off in small sections by gripping and tearing with channel locks. Took some work and caution but he was able to get it off. It was that trucks first oil change after he bought it too I have had some tough ones but after much work have been lucky enough to get them off with a band wrench (name?) or using both hands and squeezing/twisting as had as I could.

Meaning the model number of the axle? It should be an H233B. For reference, the LockRight is not AC's Locker, they just sell it You can find that same locker on ebay for less from RockyRoadOutfitters. Calling Rocky Road directly will give you the same price too There are a couple people here with LockRights, "88pathoffroad" and "Mr. Pickles" come to mind

Is this what you are looking for? Up to something new....

My scanner does not work with my current OS or I would provide some pics from the manual... do you have a book to look through? *I had similar problems but hesitate to mention them because that problem (along with several others) was traced back to a bad ECM

Get under there with some cleaner/degreaser and remove all of the leaked oil. That way you will be able to tell where it is coming from when it starts leaking again

Where is the leak , front, back, bottom? Little more detail is needed

Get yourself a wrecked Xterra, that way you already have most of what you need

Start simple... check the condition and tension of your accessory drive belts (water pump, alternator, PS pump, AC)

Oh damn... yeah, that could be a problem!

That's pretty cool the X won, but that article was really limited in info.. was it mainly just an on-road review it seemed (Steering, comfort and highway acceleration

I feel for you, it is the same reason I never got rid of my truck... even when I wanted to blow it up lol I knew I would miss it That goes for both of the trucks pictured below

I would assume prepay means pay before you pump (then go back and get any remaining money you did not use) See that not excepting a card would screw me up, I pay almost exclusively with my debit/check card. But then there are next to no "Full Service" stations here anymore. Having lived in Oregon I know what you talking about, but in Washington they will look at you funny if you expect them to pump for you It is kind of funny watching someone from say... Oregon sit in their car waiting for an attendant to come and pump... I have even seen them get pissed and take off before.

Rockauto.com lists the Emergency flasher as Bussmann #232 (Also list Bussmann #758) Schucks.com (PartsAmerica.com) lists the same one you have Tridon EP34 and LF12 ("Loud Flasher", not sure what that means) AutoZone.com lists the same as Schucks along with a "Loud Kit" LF12-K Napaonline.com lists the EP and LF parts above along with 44750 Based on the fact that so many list the part you have, it is safe to assume that you have the right one. But it is possible that the one you have is defective. Otherwise I would assume a short as others have stated. If the original is bad that could explain why it does not blow all the fuses out.

Yeah that sounds good. I am definitely interested.

On the yota? Yeah it's possible, the truck as led a tough off road life, its been rolled over once or twice while wheeling (slow roll) pounded straight and sent out for more abuse. There is not one single straight spot on the entire body... combined with 260K+ on the odometer it is possible that it was wrong before I put the 33's on. But knowing that it would be, you have the reason I verified the "true" readings of the speedometer And what is that attachement.. no matter what I do the only thing I get is

I did the same (upgrade to 31's) The difference is speed seems to be a none issue on the Path. As I have had no issues with cops and no drastic difference between my speed and the rest of traffics The Yota's Speedometer is off by one at 25 (it reads 24) and 4 at 55 (it reads 51) this according the a police cars speedometer

It's a compromise when you use it for both Figure out the difference (%) to get an accurate MPG rating. Did your truck originally come with 235/75-15's? When I put the 33's on my yota I stopped a local cop and asked him to clock me Instead he had me follow and when he reach 25 he flashed his rear lights at me, then again at 35 and 55

Well I did it again... a little investigating, an email sent and an email received I got a hold of Jim Conner, the very same Jim Conner who originally designed and built those parts. But he told me that he sold the company "many years ago" He also told me that he forwarded my e-mail to the guy who bought the company and he thinks the guy still makes some of the parts from your pictures. BTW Pavelow Leaks, I sent your pictures with the email I'll update everyone when I get more information.

Mine has a four pin round plug built into the bumper... which the wires were cut to and any "factory" (or not) converter that may have been there is not there now. I bought and wired in my own using a four pin flat plug... I have considered wiring in the round plug "just in case" I ever need it

interesting... :idea:

yeah they do, I have one browning.. it's casued by old water sitting within it for probably years.

L & P Performance I think they are still working on it.

Well, given that they are $141.99ea from 4wheelparts.com I would say that is a deal I am guessing that these are used? If so how much tread is left on them? And if they are what you wanted and are really a deal.. then congrats!