RedPath88

John, there is no need to be sorry... I knew what you meant In addition to what Animal said, you need to get this fixed as soon as possible. By allowing it to run low enough to pull air into the system (it does not even need to by run "dry") it has negative effects on your clutch. Not only does it make it harder to shift, but it will also promote wear on your clutch disk, resulting in the need to replace the clutch much sooner that it should need to be. That wear is caused by the clutch not being fully disengaged when you depress the pedal, causing it to slip against the pressure plate at a point where it should not even be touching it. This also creates a large amount of heat, which can cause the pressure plate to fail early as well.

^^^ Gotrek, have you checked local wrecking yards. Items like that never get removed from them here, so you should be able to get one if there are any Pathy's in the yards

Here you go... Pathfinder Service Manuals

New or used ECU? And if you don't mind me asking, how much (ECU and total)?

Technical terms? Sorry to late for that. but each has it's use. At some point you may find the need for them, if you never do then that is OK too. If you are right at the shift point between gears and it constantly shifts up and down, then you set it for the one that you need... no more auto shift = better control of the vehicle at that moment in time. And say your driving through the mountains (up and down, curvy roads, constant increase/decrease of speed) and it keeps shifting in and out of Overdrive... well at that point you should turn OD off, because it is not good for it to constantly move in and out of OD. Besides if you are riding right at the transition point for OD, then you don't really need it Also turn OD off when you are towing/hauling a heavy load.

Rubber

Welcome to the forums

It might not be a bad idea to take the covers off, clean the head and cover mating surfaces along with the gaskets, then tighten them down more than they were.

I never said there was anything "wrong" with it, I just have a different take on what he said.... now quit making useless posts

I beg to differ -thnkboutit- To me, that all screams clutch

So you ARE Google

Umm.. MZ, I do believe he is referring to the clutch fluid ;) Yes it is possible for the fluid to leak out the back of the master cylinder and into the passenger compartment. From there it would likely run down/drip down onto the floor board. However, one would think that eventually you would be able to smell it inside.... if not see it. Is the carpet wet or damp under the pedals? Even if it is not, look up in there and pull the carpet back and have a look. Does your clutch work normally? I trust you have completely inspected the slave cylinder mounted to the side (just for MZ ... it's on the "bottom" offset to the right side) of the transmission.

Take some mesurements and see how it will fit

Open up the box where the fan and resistor is and clean it out (behind/under glove box). You probably have a collection of small leaves and/or pine needles... or maybe a mouse (nest)

If I remember his correctly, I have a set just like them in the garage. Waiting for install (need new tail light first)

It is in the radiator and you want to completely bypass/eliminate the stock one

Only into 4LO? Well that's a new one, most who have trouble can only hit 4HI Are you sure it's 4LO you found... there is a drastic difference between LO and HI range. All the way forward is 2HI, back one is 4HI. Push the lever DOWN and pull back one for N, back one more is 4LO The indicator light should come on as soon as you shift from 2HI to 4HI. the light simply tells you that you are in 4WD (Hi or LO) is does not indicate which one.

Sealed a very leaky head gasket with Liquid Glass/Water Glass once. but you won't find that in an auto parts store. I was driving down Hwy167 and suddenly noticed that NO ONE was around me anymore (busy part of the day too), take a look in my rearview and all I could see was a white cloud Pulled over and as the cloud dissipated I saw a mixture of emotions come through it... some drivers extremely pissed off at me while some thought it was funny as hell Sold that car four or five years later and in that time I never had another problem with a water leak.

I have Superwinch on my Yota and based on those, when I convert to manuals on the Nissan I plan on going with the "correct" Superwinch hubs. From personal experience I can say that Superwinch stands behind the hubs the make. Had one fail to engage once and they replaced both, no questions asked. They even called a local (semi local, in Edgewood) NAPA who had mine in stock and approved an exchange. Normally you would send them in.

Check fuses (not likely since everything else works) if good, then assume the bulb

Hubs come and hubs go.. you will probably hear both sides for factory and aftermarket. Any idea what brand it was? I know your not worried about it, but depending on the brand you may be able to get it replaced for free

It took a lot of patience, constant evaluation/re-evaluation of the situation and even a couple threats to the long term health of the truck.. but I got mine out AND back in (and the vast majority of the swap was done by myself)

Please see prior post

I swapped the engine in my truck without dropping/pulling all those parts. Was it more difficult? I honestly do not know, I have done engine swaps before, but this is the first and only time in a Nissan truck Would I do it again this way? You bet I would, saved me from having to do a LOT of disassembly only to have to put it all back together again! The ONLY thing on that list I removed, was the Torsion Bars and that was ONLY because it allowed a little more room to move the transmission during engine reinstallation (I also used the opportunity to re index the bars) I am fairly sure that you can get to the oil pan bolts with the right combination of tools (extensions/universals) but since I removed the engine with the oil pan attached, I can not be sure of that.