RedPath88

Welcome back Steve

Remove the glove box and open the fan/air box.. do it very soon. It sounds like you might have leaves, pine needles or other debris in there and as people have learned that can be deadly... There is a resister in that box (for the fan speed control) and it gets extremely hot and can ignite flammables) Clean it out at the very first chance you get... this is something that you need to make the time -thnkboutit-

You *sure* that will work sly

Once you do it the first time with '88s method above there is nothing to it. I use a ratchet, extension, u-joint and a socket as well (my trucks tool kit is missing)

hmm.. so that gets hot too? You need to figure out if the heat is being caused by the exhaust or the control unit... and as I am sure, k9sar will agree you need to figure out the heat issue very soon. He was on vacation and had his carpet catch on fire

With only 135K on them your stock T-Bars should be fine. (mine have over 300K on them and still hold the truck up just fine) You should be able to get an inch out of the stock ones with no trouble... unless for some reason they have been beat fairly hard by prior owners. Adjust them as usual until you have the height where you want it, then give it a week or so and see if they sag. If they do you can re-index them and if after that they still sag to much... then it might be time to look at new bars. No matter if the bars are stock or after market they can be set throughout the whole range of your suspension... from nothing to max. Aftermarket bars with a higher spring rate will give a stiffer ride than the stock ones.

There are two of them, one on the truck.. you should see a sheet of metal attached to the bottom of the body directly above the exhaust pipe/CAT. There is also one on the cat (not likely to be missing) it is just a metal sheild that surrounds the CAT. Both should be pretty obvious if they are or are not there

To calculate your estimated MPG 1. Fill up and record mileage 2. Drive, drive, drive 3. Fill up and record mileage 4. Subtract Mileage recorded in step 1 from that of step 3 5. Divide the result from step 4 by the number of gallons you put in during step 3 That is your Average MPG for that tank of gas.

Search... this subject has come up several times in the past few weeks... including yesterday.. or maybe it was the day before.

Go get yourself another (matching) fender, cut the whole in it and hide it. Then accidently damage your trucks fender and "go look for a replacement" of course the ONLY replacement you will be able to find, will be one that "had" a snorkel mounted to it onces already. And the only way to cover up that unsightly hole would be with another snorkel

They all have the same problem... main power to all lights runs through them. Over time it really wrecks havoc on them. the only real fix for this is to buy a new one and the only wat to prevent it from happening again is to rewire your lighting system (headlights being the most important part of it) Problem with wrecking yard switches is (unless they are newer than the truck they came from) is that most of them will be real close to the same problems you are having right now. iirc I paid around $80 for mine from a dealer (olympia) after calling local dealer for the best price. But since then I have found they are now availible in the aftermarket.. check rockauto.com

Have you even tried calling local part stores? (I got mine at Napa)

An alternative to buying new manuals' would be to head to the wrecking yard and pick up a replacement set of Auto's or find a Hardbody with manuals and snag them

Actually MZ, we get that often around here (when we get snowfall anyway) it ussually last through the early morning hours til the sun melts it. And no I would not, nor would I drive 55 in 4WD

Wow we have a had a lot of posts about the same basic problem lately... all the symptoms are related. Its the multi switch as you mentioned. It is not hard to remove, yes you must remove the column cover off, then it is just two screws and one connector (two if you have cruise control) You can take the switch apart and clean/tweak the contacts.... But as I have mentioned in other posts it is a temporary fix. I was able to extend the life of my switch for almost a year before tweaking just did not work anymore. In the end you will be buying a new multi-switch. When or before you do that rewire *at least* your headlights with relay's. Search the site for into on that. it will extend the life of the new switch greatly.

Just did my front brakes.. no need for a Torx

I have the same tires and my mileage did not really change.. what average MPG are you getting?

Hmm not the color need Some pics of the truck (inside and out) can't hurt, even before people ask

Yep same here (as said in prior post) you can adjust the steering stops to prevent that or just don't turn to lock like I do

However, the instrument clunster may also be able to ID if it is an SE or one of the others (STD, E and XE) My 1989 FSM shows the SE cluster on page EL-54 and on EL-55 is the STD/E/XE cluster.

The options on any given Pathfinder really can't be used to tell what it was... Nissans lines on options and trim levels were extremely blurred. My SE had to rack, no LSD, no Fender Flares (but does have fender trim), no rear spoiler.. while some XE's (and even some bottom of the barrel) had those options. If you really want to know what trim level the truck was sold as originally then call your local dealer or (800) NISSAN-1 (800-647-7261) and give them your VIN#, they can tell you. They can also tell you if there are any outstanding recalls on your truck. Like mine has never had the front seatbelts latches replaced.

No brownie points system.. increasing the size of the Pathy community is reward enough... in the long it makes life better for all of us

This should probably be moved to the "Parts for Sale" section by a mod What color is the interior.. the plastic panels specifically

and FYI for VG30i owners... VG30i (TBI) Oxygen Sensors: BORG-WARNER Part# OS1170 and Bosch Part# 15207 are the EXACT same thing.. and by exact I mean they are the same part in a different box! Every identifying code, shrink wrap, the color tone of the wires, even the protective sheathing is the same.