sw

take it your talking about your rear arms chassis on stands, axle on stands then unbolt & remove. there going to be tight as well, probably need a good breaker bar

3 + 3 for 33's if your gonna run 33's your stock steering will be toast in no time at all.

i think you would be on a winner with a zd30, minus the crap, in a d21. would like to see the end results if you ever get around to doing it

sounds good to me

ahhh just saw 'on a lighter note'....... thought it was too good to be true. an oz election and v6 not post about it....:)

speaking of bitching & moaning, steveo i havent seen any posts, not that ive had a good look tho, about the oz election we just had. no work choices....good, d%!# heads running the country.....bad.

yeh td27t. great little motor extreamely reliable & handle big modifications day in, day out. rev alright for a diesel aswell. and from 97ish onwards intercooler & electronic control of the mechanical diesel pump.

not a fan? do explain why the idea of popping a zd30 (minus the crap stuff that makes em go BOOM) in my pathy has ran thru my mind a few times, i would suspect it would fit however i think a body lift would be in order. if i was to do it i would just throw the patrol gearbox and transfer case at it as well. i suspect there would be no adaptors available. so then its much easier to put a patrol front axle in as well!! - dont have to cut & flip. alternatively you could cut and paste with zd30 navara parts. obviously you will need to make mounts acorddingly & wire electricals but hey thats with just about any engine swap i think a d21 with a zd30 would go like the clappers & have a bit of grunt to boot.

for those of us in the lucky country a 4.2 turbo intercooled patrol unimog or an r34 skyline

sorry, i didnt pick up on you wanting the newer cluster, my bad

you can buy a 't piece' style sender that will give you an electrical pulsed signal and then your cable for mechanical speedo 'screws' in the back of it. i had to do this for the 3.8L V6 motor.

not sure bout the states, but here in aus ironman suspension are generally cheapy, bottom end of the market stuff.

now thats cool! give you one guess, my initials

if the fork has come unclipped from the bearing, theres simply not enough room to get it all back to gether without, at a very least sliding the trans back. even then its not going to be the easiest. been there once or twice, finally got the tans and motor lined up & the trans input shaft to drop into the spigot bush then one of the clips slips off the fork.... grrrrr everything comes back out.....

in order to try and say you some cash - its rare for the windings in alternators to 'go'. normally the regulator has stopped working. if your not confident an auto sparky can put a new regulator in for much cheaper than whole another alternator. if its a bosch alternator, im not familiar with r50's, here in australia regulators are $50 and take about 5 minutes to change. another alternator from a wrecker would easily be over $100.

ummm going hd 'clutch' usually means a kit with new clutch plate, hd pressure plate & new throw out bearing. hd pressure plates always have more clamping force than stock. i wouldnt bother changing a clutch unless i was putting a hd unit in. if anything its more advantage in a 4wd as anyone who actually wheels would know the less the clutch is involved the better. ie hd pressure plate = less slip between motor & trans = driver 'feeling' in better control of car. i put hd unit in my patrol & would do it again in a second, fact i wouldnt even consider a stock unit.

sorry to not add to the original post. but i have to laugh.... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

firstly blocking off egr is a good idea on any diesel. now a few facts - blocking the egr on a td27/td27t is not going to give you anymore power or torque HOWEVER is going to keep ALOT of crap and crud out of your motor. what happens is when egr enters the inlet pipe work/manifold, it will mix with the oily vapour that is in there as well and will form a black gunky, slimey mess - that builds up & coats everything & eventually makes its way into the motor & tends to act like sand paper on you valves. for a very simple mod, blocking egr, its a very worthwhile thing to do in terms of making your engine last longer. unfortunately my td42 patrol (same family of motor, different vehicle) was the first year to cop egr...... a little while back i pulled my inlet pipes and manifold off to inspect it all and basically from the point where exhaust gases could re-enter the system a thick film of black slimey crap coated everything..... - not good, so i cleaned it all out & changed a few things. now as for what the mechanic has said about performance increase with blocking egr, there is some truth to it, but not for us with conventional waste gate'd turbo's. he is possibly referring to varrible nozzle turbos, which are a different story. there are a few things that our family of motors respond well too, especially if already turbo'd. 1. better exhaust - cut straight to the point..... and go 2.5-2.75" straight through pipe with custom dump (turbo end that is ) made from the same size pipe. 2.timing, timing, timing. our motors are known for being very conservatively set from factory, this needs to be done on a dyno tho as every one will be different. 3. good clean filters, as with any car. theres a few more things that can help but i would STRONGLY suggest egt & boost gauges from this point on & learning how to interpret what they are saying 4. manual boost controller. to up the point at where the waste gate cuts in. 5. up the fuel - again done on dyno by a diesel specialist 6.serge tank & electric pump before mechanically diesel pump. - 'diesel boy' has posted info about this mod, you would have to search for it..... & theres always intercooling it, that helps on any turbo engine. not sure on the dimmer, my pathy is 'pov pack' & doesnt have any electric features. economy - well a close friend got around 10l/100km's with his td27t manual. so i would expect around 12ish with an auto in good nic. btw: what part of the world are you in?

well i think so, just one of those easy maintance things that just makes everything last that bit longer. did it when i first got my patrol, now do it each time before a serious 4wd. with drive shafts i general keep pumping grease in till i can see whats coming out, when the stuff coming out looks all new and clean then i stop. then wipe all the excess away. bit messy but ohwell.

100% agree number 1 problem right there being in australia, with little snow & no salted roads frame rust really isnt a massive problem. but i can easily see how this could be different you guys who live in snowy areas.

found this on the net ENGINE YEAR OIL X/HREF AIR X/HREF FUEL X/HREF Terranno 2.7L 1989-95 FO1015 Z115 FA3629 A359 FC1803 Z332 Terranno 2.7L Turbo 1989-95 C1812-2 Z416 FA3611 A1203 FC1803 Z332 Terranno All 3.2L 1989-99 C1812-2 Z416 FC1803 Z332 this was taken from the 'filter sales australia' web site edit: list looks dumb, forum software wont let extra spaces in - td27 air filter:FA3629. td27t air filter:FA3611

wow they have changed the personal profile screen heaps.... devinwest pm sent. tho i cant see any record of it in my sent items box. let me know if it doesnt come thru

its such a dumb situation we have experienced it here massively in oz. they close fire trails, then when there are actually fires the tracks are so over-grown they are impassable and the firey's cant actually use them to fight fires like they are supposed to. more life, stock & property are lost because some stupid, know it all politician think they are doing the right thing by closing all the trails to big bad nasty 4wds....

he he he he, he said long travel and ifs in the same sentence. well now to contribute something useful. the biggest thing i think is, like gg said, getting torsion bars out of the equation. coil overs would be pretty sweet but there price tag isnt having just looked at that total chaos thing im assuming you will be removing the front driveshafts, so cv angle wont be an issue. now the other thing to think about here is the MAJOR problem with d21 steering is that the center link can rotate on a horizontal axis. letting forces act on the tierod ends & idler arm, that they were not designed to deal with. making them very suseptable to bending like a banana. if your letting the two control arms travel more than they previously could you will be increasing the angles at which the tierod ends will be operating at, on flex. with the center link rotated & the tierods at bigger angles, they are going to be even more prone to bend. if you could stop the center link rotating i think the tierods would much less of an issue.

auto's will use a bit more fuel so 10/100 may not be quite acheivable but 16 seems a bit high, especially with stock tyres. see how you go with the basket filter. it still may need a timing & injector check. 160k km's is nothing for td27 long as oil has been changed over its life, but that rule is for any motor. as for that box it maybe a stock 'amp' i recall reading about it on this forum numerous times. i never had one so i dont even know what it looks like, but its always a possibility