sw

hay i didnt think of that.... not just a pretty face ay?

mws sums it up pretty well i just want to add that if the oil is in a fairly average state, that unless you get a 'pressurised' flush. you will only end up changing some of the fluid & not all of it best thing to do is pay for a 'pressurised' flush or drain and refill a few times, with drives in between - to cycle the fluid. Reason being: the torque converter holds a lot of fluid. so when the trany pan is drained and refilled there is still alot of old oil in the torque converter.

just like a rotary

know that feeling looking good dan

matic d is red.

/\ well put.

man theres some crap there.... :oops:

clear tail lights :oops: rice......

sounds like a regulator letting out its last breath of life. (regulator being in the alternator) do the yank spec pathys have hitachi or bosch alternators? bosch alternators are very easy to put a new regulator in.

Open loop defines the engine operation when the fuel ratio is calculated with consideration to only input signals from the main sensors in the program style (MAF / SD / VAF / AN). Programmable fuel management systems can be operated in 100% open loop very effectively. Closed loop defines the engine operation when the fuel ratio is calculated with consideration taken from the main sensors and feed back sensors like the exhaust oxygen sensor. Closed loop operation is devoted to emissions, economy, and a Stoichmetric fuel ratio of 14.7:1.

no not at all intake only

what a load of garbage! horses for corses i would like to see a bunch of 'fully sick' independant suspension truck with big lifts and 35" or bigger tyres do a few of the tracks down here in oz. then see the damage report at the end.

yep, whats your intended purposes? solid axle = good off road & strong - less breakages off road i.f.s. = good on road handling - much weaker off road another thing to take into account is i.f.s. has more moving parts. so GENERALLY speaking if you break stuff, theres gonna be more stuff to replace. GO THE SOLID AXLES!!

dont do it steveo!!! telstra is teh gay :furious: pack of moranic fools stupid greedy nobs couldnt even get me a solid copper connection, i was stooopid enough to wait almost a year. hence my home connection is still dial up thanks to my ubber great 'pair gain' connection. wish Solomon Trujillo (ceo of telstra) would go back to the states and get run over by a big truck :furious:

surprise surprise at the mo im getting the block & heads dipped & cleaned up. i ve had the 351 crank checked out & the outlook is not good all the conrod journals are 20 thou undersize, as was stated on the ebay ad - in all fairness HOWEVER one of the journals is flogged out below 40 thou..... sounds like a job for the hard chromers... o well least its gonna be pretty shmicky when im done! also found out i dont have open chamber heads i have closed chamber! - all that means is more compression

do the other windows work? ie has the fuse gone?

i second that!!!!! sly sly i also second Jims rig being in the banner, he is the founder & all. heres my entry!!!

sorry guys.... r50 ok! was thinking d21

as for pulling the drum/disc hub apart - yes it is possible BUT unless you have a large press which you can put the whole axle shaft and hub in you will NOT be able to get them apart. pathy rear axles are semi floating & do not come apart easily. yes they do come apart otherwise how would you change the rear bearings. you just need a press. from memory the bloke who pressed my rear axle shafts and hubs apart, when i did my rear bearings, stated that 2-3 tonnes in the press was about the limit otherwise you risk bending the axle shaft. if it wont come apart with 2 or 3 tonnes you will need to heat or cut. when i did my drum to disc swap i had to buy some 1.5mm (i think) shims to space the whole hub out as the ends of the shafts were binding on the diff centre. upon reverse and turning i would get a sort of 'binding' feel, the car was uneasy to move and a sort of unusual noise. put some more shims in and all fixed no probs. However at the time the vehicle was fitted with an arb airlocker and it still had the centre pin in place. this may not be an issuse with the stock diff take this advice from some whos been there done that.

$30 k US pfffttttt.... and the reserve is still not met....... :eek:

tell that to all the kiddies on here with lok rite lokka's.

is the hub (the bit that bolts to the axle tube) & axle shaft from the disc brake unit ok? if so then you can do it. being semi floating axle you cant easily just pull the disc brake unit/flange off and still use the other axle shafts.

it will only lift the front. probably worthwhile if the front has saged - to level the car up. it you wind the t-bars up the ride will be firmer, but nothing to worry about. otherwise if you wanna lift the front end up it will look silly without doing something to the rear end aswell. if you go too crazy with lift & the stock front end generally your steering will be come sloppy.

wow $26 k at the mo. you can pick up gq petrol shortys in oz for about $6 or 7 k. you would get something great for $10 k.

nice looking shorty GQ