sw

yes there seems to be a bit of talk on aftermarket hubs letting go. a friend with a 60 series cruiser had an aftermarket set completely destroy themselves first time he used em. nissan genuine manual hubs are very strong, havent heard of them breaking

well small update with the october long weekend (australia) just passed i went with a 4wd club along the boarder track in s.a. now before i went i did all my pre trip checks etc. this included greasing the front drive shaft. now as ive only had the car 3 months or so this was the first time its has been done by me. soon as i got on to the freeway and got up to freeway speed i could hear my stupid auto hubs clunking in and out....... obviously the freshly greased shaft is now alot free'r and was free spinning up at high way speed, then the stupid auto hubs would see this and engauge. they continued to bang in & out until i stopped and tied up the front drive shaft. clearly the auto hubs have to go, no argument there. however the thicker gear oil maybe causing the front shaft to free spin up at highway speed. i think i will try the atf.

had a look in the book for the patrol and like pathys there is supposed to be atf in the t-case. does any know why this is so? i really dont get it. atf is a thin hydraulic type oil. yet a gear type oil (i.e. say 80-90 gear oil) is thicker. now our t-cases are just a big box with 3 or 4 gears and one very very thick chain, well d21 pathy & patrol anyway. so based on its simplicity i would tend to assume just a basic gear oil is the go. i always ran 80-90 in the pathy t-case & i know for a fact that the patrol has 80-90 in it now (easy to tell due to viscosity, color and smell). never had any trouble at all with the pathy t-case & the patrol t-case seems exactly the same - runs great smooth, no noises etc. do i leave it? :confused:

hehehehehe nah every now and then you get these crazy freak parts ladys who know everything.....

well if it were a petrol engine i would say its the crank angle sensor, however being diesel im not really to sure. is there a small senor with 3 or 4 small wires near the crank pulley? any engine lights come on at all? one idea: take the car for a drive, stop it and then have someone with a 'multimeter' put it across the rail that sits on top of the glow plugs then try and start the engine. i.e. see what voltage is across the glow plug rail when starting once warm. generally speaking if the engine is indirect injection it needs glow plugs to start. (not sure what diesel motor ever made it into a r50 but the only direct inject that i know of in nissans is the zd30, & i not exactly sure they would put that motor in a r50 pathy) if there is full voltage across the rail it maybe something wrong with what the computer is seeing & may require diagnostics by someone with the right software.

if not set up precisely the centre pin will destroy itself quickly know of one in a vehicle that was set up ok, even then it died a slow and painful death, one side of it letting go & giving no drive at all. i wouldnt recomend a lock rite lokka at all.

ouch! :o

except patrols are made for 4wding unlike 100 series land cruisers.

no worries man, dont sweet it yeh clevo 302 & 351's are sort of common down here. yeh also the point of heads & vavles, you are spot on however thats not the whole story... the heads with the massive exhaust vavles are know as 4v heads. there are also 2v heads which have a much smaller exhaust valve than the 4v. now i have been lead to believe that you can set a motor with 4v heads up and if you do it right it will run alright below high rpm. however as stated above i have 2v heads, so this isnt a problem for me.

thanks for the info thunderbox however theres a few very cluey ford nuts around the office and i have spoken to them about this. they have said that due to the fact im fully rebuilding the motor that there will be no problem using the 351 crank. have also found out that if i use the 302 rods with the 351 crank i can gain a whole bunch more torque for nothing. obviously i will need pistons with offset gudgeon holes. (cant remember the fancy term for this) also, i know this is pretty simplied....., but i have sat the 351 crank in the block already and spun it over by hand, seemed alright....

mws im not a ford person in any way shape or form. whats some of the differences bewteen windsor and clevland, im sure they can both be set up to run well in this situation. what are the good and bad points for each? bit of a ford noob here figured out what heads i have - 2v open chamber. i also managed to pick up a clevo 351 crank and rods real cheap on ebay. i would'nt of normally gone and got these but the price was right!

with a bit of effort and persistance youll be able to straightn her out you may find as you pull the front out the battery area may come back down, if not i would tend to think mr hammer might fix things. as stated above its a PATHfinder not a SHOWfinder thats not to say we all dont like nice cars, just at the end of the day its a 4wd made for 4wding.

well after a bit of hesitation i finally pulled the motor out of the boat. now the motor is well and truely stuffed but as i dont really have the spare $$$$ to throw at this one its a bit of a hard decision to make. i will be doing everything i can myself, to save $$$, pretty much machining is the only thing i cant do as i dont have my own mill. this is not gonna be something that happens quickly as i will only be doing stuff when there is spare cash, now when the missus is crack'n the wip to buy/build a house theres not much spare cash around. she's a clevland 302 V8. anyways a few pics as starters the last few nights work one very sad motor one very sad stripped block worn crank & 6 out of 8 pistons with cracked rings....... the cam is heavily pitted, so i guess it will make a good paper weight now.

clutch master cyl was next the brake booster before engine and trans swap

yes steering box, brake booster & clutch master cyl on the right hand side I take a few pics then..... i was being lazy

photos would help do you have a website to put the photos on or do as most others do, put them on photo bucket then link. as for fixing the car, get those photos up...

now thats a garage!!!!! :cool2:

i believe it was f off, not f word...... yeh maybe not this one

morning steveo i hope the new house is in as nice a area as the old one...... the whole creek area was reall pretty all the best mate!

quick update awhile has gone by now and weve even got in a 4wding trip. as far as ratios are concerned we cant notice any difference. so alround

ah hello Australia got plenty of em'

that turned out to be the exact problem. however its not the location of the ball the fork snaps on to, its the height of it and its also the length of the machined shaft on the plate, were the trans input shaft pops out of. swapped em over and she's sweet as now! still a little early to say about ratios, but we both drove it and it did really feel any different so all in all this is a do-able thing to save some big $$$$$

AHHHHHHHHH another night & no love something not right with the thrust bearing fork................ i accidently put the z24 front seal plate on the the td27 bell housing. i think the ball that the fork snaps on to is in a different position. = no drive clutch out and gear selected or crunching gears with clutch in trying to grab a gear. we unbolted the slave cyl & grabbed a gear with the motor off & started her, got drive. something dodgy with the fork/throw out bearing its all gotta come out AGAIN...... :confused:

well a good friend of mine with a diesel td27t terrano stuffed his manual trans about a week ago, so we dragged it to my garage last night and dropped the manny box. we had a plan, on my pathy i had done a engine and trans swap a long time ago and i had kept my manual gearbox, the box is in good condition so we thought how about putting my good box in his car. now my pathy used to have a Z24 4 cyl petrol engine so more than likely the box's are going to be different. we put them side by side, we looked at the numbers stamped on the boxs - td71c & z71c- DOH! all along we had hoped we would be able to just swap the bell housing on the boxes and wa-la. we noticed that the trannys outer cases are made up of only 2 pieces. so no EASY bell housing swap. so we looked further and found that the numbers stamped on the boxs we had seen earlier were on the front section - the bit that bolts to the motor. so we looked at the back section of the boxes for another number & we found one - X1A#1. we checked both boxs and they both had that same number. GREAT!!. so we pulled the boxs apart to swap the bell housing/outer casing piece. all we had to do was remove the bolts on the tranny, remove the front seal plate & remove one large c clip and then with much, much effort the boxs came apart. the housings were a direct swap. & once re-assembled the z24 gear box with td27t belhousing and t-case all went back in. i know there will be different ratio issues but according to a local very cluey nissan nut it wont be a big difference so there you go gear box mix n match. not bad considering local wreckers want $1200 australian for a second hand box. i assume this would be valid for the v6 manny boxs as well.

does a little green light come on in the cab when you put it in 4wd? do your reverse lights work?