sw

thats a really good point mindlessly typing, thinking 4wd...... my bad.

???? cutting the floor??? if your reffering to the tcase shifter, it not required unless you do a 3" BODY lift, even then bending the selector is an option.

cool little motors, big torque figures on paper, full of electrics tho. look great as well. if they put solid axles with the ladder frame - that would be one crazy machine.

patrol diesels well you would have 3 choices 1. td42 2. rd28 3. zd30 1. fantastic motor & the only one to have! but youve got absolutely no hope as its a staight 6 & is very long. 2. not heaps of power with this one but not to bad, however again its a straight six. 3. 4 cyl diesel. well the zd30 is like p!ssing in the wind, its only a matter of time before you end up with p!ss all over yourself. its not worth the time of day & nissan should be ashamed of themselves for not sorting this motor out before they put it in a patrol..... so if your actually serious about a motor swap what about a td27. 4 cyl diesel, same family as a td42. they respond well to modification i.e turbo & intercooler, pump mod's, exhausts etc. they are tough and can go all day even when modified.

the troll is absolutely fantastic massively strong, tough & ready to go the td42 with turbo & intercooler goes great, more power than you can poke a stick at. i love it the airlocker up front just enhances the experience..... :):)

looking sharp steveo i think this calls for a trip over to you when your ready to test it.... :D the current car doesnt have tooth pick steering, so some of those harder tracks could be on the cards.

to know for sure do a compression check, you will probably have to go to a diesel mech as compression is much higher being a diesel btw nissan diesel td27 t - now im not 100% on this but i believe the t stands for timing gears - as in no timing belt or chain but metal gears. similarly rd28 (another nissan diesel) - the r stands for timing belt d - is diesel. 27 - is capacity td27t - the last t is for turbo td42ti - which is what i have :) the i is for intercooled

odd, never seen a turbo on one side only of a v motor... whatever obviously works

good work! air lockers rule!!!, i love my front air locker in the troll good pics there btw seems like your pretty handy when it comes to turning spanners, - the only way to be

that makes me laugh

that zuk is a classic that would be such a fun car

umm sd33's are very old (mq patrol vintage) & dont go anything special.... do it if you want, but i think wait for another motor btw i believe they are a straight six, so good luck getting it to actually fit

i was going to say was govols said

do you have an exhaust temp gauge (pryo)? this is most important, as when exhaust gas temp hits a certain level it becomes damaging to the motor, that level depends on weather the probe its pre or post turbo. the other important thing is if your planning on or have already up'd the boost you need to up the fuel. both the td27 & td42 are very strong diesel motors, despite both being indirect inject, & if setup properly can handel big mods all day every day. lets see some pics of the cooler setup. btw air to water coolers arnt a bad thing, there actually very expensive, but to be worth while the 'barrel' need to be BIG as possible like 8x6 as a minimum

when you move the wheel with the front jacked up it is quite possible that the centre link has/is rotating on it own axis allowing the wheel to move slightly. you've replaced a good chunk of stuff i would start with first, so with that in toe it sounds like this could be your casue. unfortunately this is a problem with the way the steering is designed. there are solutions available to you but i beleive all the options are not steet legal. approx a month ago i did a home grown solution to this and it worked very well, better than i had hoped actually - i was pounding it hard enough that both lower arm torsion bar collars stripped but the steering held up & in particular no bent tie rod ends. i will also add that the idler arm is a particular weak spot on the steering. the arm itself can bend & also the 2 plastic bushes internally can flog out along with the internal shaft wearing. theres many references on here to an idler brace, could be worth looking into.

didnt really take many photos but i did take a few, if someone one is able to host an .avi pm me & i will put that up & the few photos i took.

well that was the first 4wd competion i been to let alone paticpated in, & wow it was a blast.... well the good news was i absolutely hammered the stuff out of the pathy & with NO rotational movement in the centre link, not one tie rod end bent, not only that i had no trouble with the double nut set up. ie i did not make time to put a split/cotter pin through one of the nuts i was very pleased :eek: :eek: :eek: However i was going hard enough that in the first of 4 stages i did break other stuff. - the splined collar on the drivers side that bolts on to the lower control arm, where the torsion bar slots into - that stripped. so we ripped it out & found some random guy that had a mig welder & lived 30 seconds up the road, so we welded the torsion bar to the collar.... . put it all back in the car and got it right about 5 seconds before i was up for round two. i know the photo is washed out but you can sort of make out the weld nothing broke in stage 2 or 3 but in stage 4 the splined collar on the passenger side stripped & on the drivers side the welded end of the torsion bar held up BUT the other end got completely smashed up. the torsion bar arm & long bolt got hit on something and it got completely bent right round. the bolt was pushed out of the arm & was bent up as well. so i finshed stage 4 with both sides at the front on the bump stops. didnt get any photos of the bent up torsion bar arm & bolt tho. since stage 4 and day1 was finished i put the pathy back on the trailer and came home, there was day 2 where we were to do it all again, but there was no point in me being there... so all up had an absolute blast, wrecked the i.f.s. good and proper & at the end of day one i was in position 15 of 34 drivers, not bad ay sly . just for a bit of perspective i was 1 of 7 cars that did not have 35" tyres or bigger & i was 1 of 3 cars that had i.f.s. well all i can say is that the ifs is not get fixed, there is only ONE option left & when that happens you will all see it....

he he he he he he well said

being sooooo basic we did think of that, hence grease nipples on both idler & pitman arms. basically if its gonna get use the grease gun will be in the car & i imagine will be in use often. but im willing to find out for my self. jj thanks for the heads up. might have to look into it, dang its alot harder to drill now..... rember folks this is not a road vechile so use will be minimal

well i know this is delaying the only real solution, but hay this only cost me 2xM18 bolts, some 3/4 brash washers, some 3/4 metal washers & some steel. i guess you can call this a copy of the l&p/checo link, but I'm in australia & not marketing it what i did was grabbed my old centre link & cut the backs off of the 'tie rod' style ends & removed them and the internal plastic bushes. then welded high tensile M18 bolts in their place. i also had to rework the idler arm brace, just redrilling some holes then welded on a brace to the part of the idler arm that goes to the centre link, to stop that bending aswell. at this stage i dont think i need to brace the pitman arm but time will tell.... just to clarify this vehicle is no longer driven on the roads, as this mod is not legal. the pathy & i will be taking part in an organised 4wd event next weekend so will see how it goes. hopefully with no rotational movement in the centre link the tie rod ends will last longer than 5 minutes...... & i did say hopefully

welcome back Jim good to see you & good to see you are half the man you use to be. all round

fair enough so the bar doesnt match the winch

can i ask how is an ARB bumper damaging your winch cable generally speaking ARB bars are extreamly good quality, too the point of here in australia i believe that ARB make the bars that nissan fit to there vehicles from the factory. i believe the bar on my Patrol is an ARB unit with a nissan part number on it. every 'man & his dog' runs an ARB bar & winch out here & i have never come across this problem. surely is a fair lead problem not a bar problem. did you modify the way it mounts to the bar to fit it?

anything is possible how much cash are you gonna throw at it???? on a more useful note depending on what deisel motor, it may bolt up to the trans but you will need to consider ratios of both gearbox, diffs & tyre size. everything will be custom so if your not handy at welding i hope youve got a big wallet. if diesel vehicles are available in your part of the world it would be a lot easier to go and buy one.

not on a pathy but have a friend with one on a 60 he had to lower the ac compressor & the alternator to fit it above them both. all three required custom brackets. but geee it puts out alot of air