sw

few questions first 1. has the wiring at the radio been touched? i.e. has someone put in an aftermarket stereo? 2. are there any accesories fitted? like a uhf radio or moblie phone car kit? 3. do you know where those two added wires actually go? 4. have you noticed anything else electrically stop working since the smoke? normally when an automotive fuse blosws you would not get that sort of damage for there to be that much damage, there would have had to been a lot of heat, which would have been caused by a lot of current. it seems to me that the was a substantial short/fault somewhere and the fuse in the fuse box blew, to try and clear the fualt, but current has come from somewhere else and has continued to feed the fault and completely melted the aready blown fuse to the point as shown in the photo. that being said it doesnt explain how the fault would have stopped. either theres going to be another blown fuse somewhere or theres a wire thats completely burnt thru, possibly still live. if it where me i would be ripping the radio out to see if there has been any 'addtions/joins' to the loom and i would also be ripping those two dodgy wires, added to the fuse box, out & working out weather they actually need to be there. if they do i would be rewiring them properly.

1. maf sensor. when it gets dirty it tells the computer the wrong info, which tends to lead to over fueling, which can lead to excessive combustion temps & eventually damaged pistons. 2. variable vane turbo charger. the computer control of the vanes does not respond quick enough to changes in engine load, which can lead to spikes of 25psi. there is a simple way of removing computer control of the vanes and basically setting it up with a linear boost curve, which is well documented on patrol4x4.com these two problems hand in hand are very, very dangerous. boost & exhaust temp gauges are a simple way of monitoring the situation. my understanding is the zd30 navara's dont have either objects

harvey dont rule out the zd30 yes early patrol zd30's can suffer catastrophic failure BUT there is 2 critical reasons for it, which are very easily rectified. having had my td42 GU patrol for a while now i have spent lots of time reading about zd30's and since learning substantial info about them, my honest opinion is they really arnt that bad, not as good as a td42, but not bad . are you awhere that the zd30 in the navara does NOT suffer the same failures? for the exact same two reasons - which they dont have. i too have the idea of a zd30 in my d21 pathy, i reckon it would go like stink & have torque to boot. my thoughts have been a zd30, trans & t-case from a navara. then modify it the way a want it. i know that the patrol zd30 has better figures on paper but the way i would modify it, it would neglect those differences.

something along the the lines of this this one actually looks good tho

looks like an R33 to me disgustingly ugly tho. rice has no place on a skyline

doing a timing belt is fair task, i know lots of people that would give it a miss.

as i said previously, it will work. we just had to change over the bellhousing, throw out bearing forking mounting plate, throw out bearing fork & throw out bearing. which wasnt a problem for us cause we had all that stuff on the box that was coming out of the car. if your starting with just a petrol box it may not be so easy. as i said before, if your going to the effort of putting a manual trans in, throw some new bearings at it before it goes in. it will save heart ache down the track

well your t-case wont bolt on the gearbox. 720's have divorced t-cases, so the back of the gearbox would have a drive shaft style output. dont know if it will go on the motor, never really even seen a 720 in real life.

since when do autos use a spigot bush? if you have a maunal transmission & your not running a spigot bush your asking for trouble

theres something about cheap ebay front bar & winch that just isnt right

have a quick read here: here it only 2 pages & explains a few things the comments i would be paying attention to are by 'old mav', 'tracteur tom' & 'its a ford not a nissan' the last comment by old mav sums it up well

they are going to have completely different fuel maps that could mean a number of things, with regard to fuel consumption and power. i dont know enough about fuel mapping to say either way

if you actually bothered to look at a camber bolt, you would very quickly know that they are not available at the hardware shop

amusing

well as said before it goes like a cut snake & only since owning a diesel 4wd have i been a little dissapointed with the low down grunt. fuel economy was woe-ful (around 20L per 100km give or take 1 or 2L). however i do have 4.88 gear ratios and 31" tyres - so the motor was always reving a bit higher than i would have liked. commo motors like to drink when up in the revs. some nice 35" tyres would probably lower the rpm nicely........ but theres no point doing that until a sas has happened. this has been talked about in another thread. fitting a straight 6 to the pathy engine bay is no easy feat. - radiator would most likely need to go in the back. rb30 block and rb25 head would be very cool!!! again lots of work...... well i dont think much of yota what so ever, so anything yota in a nissan is just not on!! that being said an v8 petrol is going to produce a lot of heat. the pathy engine bay is small & even keeping the commo v6 cool proved to be quite a task, for both of us 3.8L d21's actually. so i would think keeping the big yukky yota 8 cool wouldnt be much fun. i still think the td27 is worth the time of day. i know its never going to be crazy in the power stakes but i still think good honest performance can be had with the right mods.

i dont know diesel people in melbourne, but i do know MTQ is australia wide & i know here in adelaide they are a very reputable place to deal with. we also have another mob by the name of hy-tech, who are very good, but i think they are an adelaide only company. bolt pattern on the motor end should be no different for manual & auto. dont know about the 2wd boxs but i do know a few things about the 4wd boxs. due to circumstances we fitted a z24(petrol) gearbox to a td27. we had to use the td27 belhousing, clutch fork mounting point/plate, clutch fork & throw out bearing but it did work. i think td27 slave cylnder & pin aswell, tho it was a long time ago & i couldnt be 100% one thing i will make mention of if your going to put a manual box in, do yourself a big favour - put new bearings & syncros in it. seen a few boxs with failed bearings after quite a few km's

forgot to mention have you ever checked you valve clearance as with any motor incorrect clearance will give crap consumption & crap power

one conversion i think would be a-goer, would be a zd30 from a patrol (its a different setup to the zd30 navaras), i have learnt a lot about why they have a tendency to self destruct, thanks to patrol4x4.com, so a few key mods and i think the zd30 would hammer in a d21. its direct inject and twin cam, with the right mods i reckon it would make the 3.8L look a bit drab.

see your other post rob. ahhhhhh you have an auto.... autos sap power, sorry no easy answer there. theres at least 2 of us here with 3.8 v6's, my conversion auto and the other manual. as stated in the other post, when it comes to a 4wd, torque wins hands down on flat out speed. sr20's are a great motor, no arguments there, but at what rpm is it generating max torque. not nice and low like you need off road in the tough stuff.

wow this is an old post to be some what helpful here goes: better exhaust makes a big difference. on my td42 (same family as the td27) i changed my exhaust to a straight through 3" pipe and hand made 3" dump pipe from the turbo. very very noticeable difference. yes, noisy on hard acceleration but that great turbo whistle always makes up for it. i find the 3" system on the troll is only a small amount louder than the standard system when cruising at 60kn/hr, which is most of the time here in oz. as stated above its really only loud when given a boot full i would say a straight through exhaust around 2.5" possibly 2.75" (i dont recall the actual size of the stock exhaust on the td27), WITH a proper dump pipe would make a lot of difference to both 'go' and km's. if your looking for more 'go', things you can do: 1. firstly just check what condition your air filter is in. having used a few different ones on my td42, i have found a fresh nissan air filter to always be better 'go' off the mark & more km's to the tank. i regularly go bush so theres no way a k&n will ever get near my car. 2. have ignition timing checked by a diesel specialist, our family of motor are know for having the injection timing redarded from factory, usually it can be advanced some what. 3. fit a holley red fuel pump near the tank. helps with power, km's and lower egt's 4. add an intercooler. air to air can be done on the cheap if your handy with a spanner. better yet air to water setups work very, very well. 5. have injectors rebuilt & burst pressures set a little higher - i have not done this YET, but everyone talks of it making a big difference to grunt & km's. 6. fit a manual boost controller. HOWEVER more boost means nothing without more fuel. so fitting a manual boost controller would mean raising the boost then taking it to a diesel specialist and have them adjust the fuel on the rollers. upping the boost is a great mod to do & wont necessarily mean an increase in your average fuel consumption - depends on how often you use all that extra power. now as for the commodore v6. been there done that, well still own it :D . wouldnt get rid of it for the world either :D however since owning the diesel troll & seeing the amount of torque from idle, the amount of torque that the 3.8L produces is some what disappointing. yes it goes like a cut snake, but the ability to produce grunt verus flat out speed is very different. at the end of the day having the ability to use grunt rather then just hitting an 4wd obstacle fast is going to mean less breakage. i think the cash you would end up spending on a 3.8L conversion would be better spent on the td27 hope all this is of some help

just keep in mind that our all mighty government has fixed it so gas will be the same price as unleaded in a few years.

theres a few straight gas rb30 & turbo gq patrol combo's on outers. the owners seem to be fairly happy with their results straight gas rb30 & turbo could be an option - lots of go & cheap to fill up compared to unleaded & diesel

never seen the falcon motor in a pathy, seen a few commodore v6 conversions tho you stated your looking for good on fuel, hence suggesting the falcon motor & gas. they run well on gas, much better than the commodore v6 on gas & being a straight motor produce more torque. i tend to think the falcon auto trans drives smoother than the commodore auto trans aswell. youve stated you dont care about 4wd, so i would use the falcon trans and just have a drive-shaft made to suit

bawhahahahahahaha banging in a straight 6, well it will fit but the radiator is going to be in the rear falcon straight 6 on gas would be better i reckon good luck

*sigh* hay noob no need to double post, youve put it in the for sale section. it doesnt need to be here. btw i think we should start a npora challenge. we should see if any one can over state all the factory gear more than whats been done in the above post. my favourite bit is: traction control, hill descent, hill start, 4 wheel limit slip. which is just a big load of hot air off road. my second favourite bit is the standard wheels are special OFF ROAD wheels