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someones gotta ask what have you done? ring & pinion arnt really regularly serviced items....

i also suspect not log manifolds are very restrictive, if i were you i would go for an extractor type exhaust manifold to the turbo & plenum style inlet manifold with air to water intercooler

oh yes so tell me why in your opinion the z24 is a pos, other than stating the obvious - its a small engine for a 4wd answer me this: have you ever owned a d21 with a z24

anyone on here using freedrive navigation software?

i was going to say the same thing

well im only familiar with my 88, which had no electric anything, so that plug doesnt look like anything i know of in the back of the car (im assuming its the back of the car). is there electric options your car has but dont work? btw its not uncommon for there to be unused plugs around the car - it usually stems from different levels of trim from the factory - xe, se, ti etc. as for that lose wire, those red plugs dont look factory - seeing as the wires are all different wire colors/stripes its possible someone has had a 'faulty' standard plug which they have cut off and re terminated (using those red connectors). seeing that really corroded plug in the same photo leads me to think so anyway. i would try and follow where the cable runs to and from and take it from there. edit: - the thought passed my mind, that group of wires possibily could be trailer plug wiring - does you car have a trailer plug & does it work properly as for the key fighting you in the lock its possible that there is a solenoid in the door (i guessing you have keyless entry) that just doesnt want to be moved manually, which is normal. the lock popping back is probably just everythings a bit corroded, old, loose etc. & when manually turned with the key its not enough movement for the solenoid to change 'state', hence popping back

no worries, glad you have learnt something - i will never undersdand why people go straight to the dealer to get ripped off, ooops i mean get there car fixed

i would like to know how a caliper 'blows' - maybe the rubber boot. you can pop the piston out and put a new boot in if your handy. when you say 4wd mechanism i assume your reffering to the locking hub. if so, yes you need to take it off. besides its easier to take the disk off the flange on the bench with a big heavy hammer

i dont know r50 pathys but that sounds like a load of rubbish - a cable must have a lug on each end to be terminated. if your not handy go to an auto sparky and get them to reterminate the cable end that has the cracked terminal. really it should cost minimum labour charge for the auto sparky & a few bucks for a new lug.

highly unlikely that those relays have gone bad have you checked for fuses in the engine bay? every nissan ive owned has a bunch in the cab and a bunch in the engine bay

bawhahahahahahahahaha ohh its not good to laugh loudly in a quite office....

theres at least two of us on here that have done it using the australian spec of the engine if the yank version is anything like the aus version forget the vg, the gm motor absolutely flogs it. as for getting it done in one weekend, that a little ambitious to say the least you may have motor mounts and an adapter, but its going to be far from bolt in. what trans are you using & what mount are you going to use to hold it. there will be masses of stuff you havent planned on i.e how are you planning to wire it up? what fuel pump setup are you planning on?, you will need to fit a surge tank, how are you doing your air intake? etc etc etc a big heads up now is what radiator are you planning on using? i tell you now these bigger motors get hot in our little engine bay. i was regularly seeing 95-98 degrees celcius coolant temp - although never ever had a problem & it would go all day like that. if i were to change it now i would go a completely custom completely aluminium 1 or 2 row cross flow job. to give some perspective i took six months of most of my spare time to complete my conversion. vsicks is the other on here to do the swap & he was in a similar situation. to get it done right you cant rush it all that being said - GO FOR IT you wont look back

in answer to your question no you can not use your current computer to run a different motor. you will need the one the new motor comes with or an after market one - then it will need to be mapped on a dyno even if by chance it had all the right sensors & configuration the fuel mapping would be up the creek the previous coment concerns me. you need to realise that there really isnt much at all thats 'bolt in' when it comes to swapping in a completely different motor. even if some companies advertise fabricated mounts & such.

where abouts are you, i have some headers i could sell if your in oz, im in adelaide

looks great when ever me & the lads fabricate something, if it can fit in the oven - we bake it. makes the finish so much harder even made an 'oven' out of hebel blocks & 2 stand alone bar heaters for an axle housing we modified & painted once...

standard 100 series, which there are thousands & thousands & thousands of here in oz. even the new 200 series. - which looks like a cross between an oz klugger and oz pajero....

you ever actually been 4wding with one. landbarges with ifs are big, fat , heavy, useless pieces of s$@# that belong in the supermarket carpark, much more so than a brand new pathy. theres a lot of talk about 'looks' in this post. looks dont mean s$@# when it comes to 4wd ability or the driver knowing what to do for that matter. bottom line is monocoque (sp??) chassis & especially independent suspension are so much weaker than ladder chassis & solid axles and generally only last so long when used off road.

ha, hit the nail on the head steveo gotta remember mate the patrol never made it to their shores, so they think that the pathfinder or that frontier thing are nissans best 4wd offering.

all that work & money & he has used coil packs from a dunnydoor & there just bolted to the firewall with a piece of rusty angle.......

well the crap stuff on zd30's: 1. variable nozzle turbo 2. variable nozzle turbo actuator 3. exhaust gas recirculation system other things to consider are the first few series of blocks had poor oil circulation - so a later block is the only one to consider, addition of a catch can to the crank case breather, the maf sensor becoming a regulary serviced item - by serviced i mean replaced, addition of a cav filter - the pumps are very sensative to junk in the fuel.

sorry to multi post but i thought i would add some pics for reference hmm pic not up loading to site...... cant up date my photo page, ftp program not letting me log in, dont know why.....

it depends to the state of two things. 1. idler arm 2. tie rod ends if they have been there the life of the car they will probably have a little bit of play in them already. the 33's will make it worse. check them out - put the front end of the car up on chassis stands, grab one wheel and move it back and forth & have a friend have a good look at all the joints. worn parts become real obvious quickly as there will be movement where there shouldn't be. just a note, i learnt this the expensive way - even on 31's. if the idler arm is worn & your not going the calmini steering setup option don't waste $$ on any other aftermarket idler arm. i did this and after the first 4wd trip it was more worn than the original.... i was seriously not happy. a better option is to 'fix' the standard one. its not hard, you can get two new plastic bushes & two new seals from Nissan. the only other thing is getting the shaft hard-chromed. there should be a shop in each state, just look it up in the phone book. what they will do is a slight grind of the shaft then dip it in chrome & build it back up thicker than it was then machine it back down to the right size. this worked a treat & when coupled with a centre link that does not allow rotational movement, all your steering components will take a beating. might just add that if your going to this effort a brace for the idler arm will be worth its weight in gold. theres pics and info around on this forum about those

take it your talking about your rear arms chassis on stands, axle on stands then unbolt & remove. there going to be tight as well, probably need a good breaker bar

3 + 3 for 33's if your gonna run 33's your stock steering will be toast in no time at all.

i think you would be on a winner with a zd30, minus the crap, in a d21. would like to see the end results if you ever get around to doing it