sw

theres a few schematics kickn around on the net, that is basiaclly the same as the rest. However, as it show, its for a york. yorks have a sump, therefore they dont need to be oiled for round sanden style compressors you need to add an oiler to the air inlet. i have a fitting from my engine air intake that goes to my oiler then to my compressor inlet. this is my oiler: the blue & grey thing next to the washer bottle.

& that would be why? its only going to stop if its got no oil in it. an inline oiler is an easy answer to that i use generic light machine oil in my sd7

seems like i just played the nub the post was about a free wheeling 'hub' i just thought he typed n instead of h

genuine nissan manual hubs are by far the strongest & best option. to the question above, title should read 'hub', not 'nub'

not so my d21 is australian release & its definitely a pathfinder

terrano - pathfinder. same car, different names. the difference lies with trim levels & engines. Generally terrano's have the td27 & a few more 'luxury' bits what part of the world are you in? what specs you after?

hahahahahaha, this sure is an old one

here here!!! she speaks the truth

sweet

dont forget Jim's original jumping clip cant be bothered finding the link right now

2 door

patrol4x4

bawhahahahahahahahaha wish i had seen this earlier. i was laughing just from reading the title, then i saw the pics of the stupid wheels & the gay tail lights :)

hmmm i wouldnt always assume gas would be a no go-er next time give it a try and see if its any different at all, it may highlite a problem.

no such thing as a direct replacement - other than the original z24 ive put a holden 3.8L v6 in my d21, goes great. but everything is custom fit.

first of all the vg isnt that much better than a z. if your were ever going to do a swap you would do it with something worthwhile. now to your problem, youve mentioned a hill and dramas when running on petrol, did it stall? but yet it would do it on gas? that to me signals carby that needs some attention, - the float may not be doing what its supposed to do.

nothing like doing a job properly

no worries, it was a long time ago i was playing with that stuff just a suggestion on the spacers, do not use the ones that are basically like the shape of a 'y' and slip in. - once those threads for the arm bolts become a little soft they wont hold tension and the spacers will slip out. - you will be in all sorts of dramas then..... at a minimum use washers or i ended up making a metal plate with two holes in it then used washers for further adjustment.

if no one else confirms you could always put the front up on a chassis stand and pop one bolt out & take it to a nut and bolt place.

iirc M14 x 1.25 someone may pick me up on it, but going from memory thats what it was having been down a similar path i would prehaps recommend a recoil kit at the same time. those treads in the frame arnt the best once you start playing around with the front arms and spacers etc. 2 of the 4 on mine eventually stripped, similar story with a friends car aswell. recoil kits at that size arnt cheap but if you wanna do things properly its the way to go.

ding, ding, ding we have a winner why would i give a to$$ what money you spend - i live on a different continent.......

if your doing a half a$$ job, why are you even bothering to do anything at all?

you take a short cut here & it will cost you more money later either do it properly or pay someone to do it. split boots are not a solution

getting off topic now but anyway the naps version was the twin spark version - correct?

well prehaps fair enough on the its note the best for modifying due to position of valves whatever i just thought its a bit rough calling it a pos just because its not the best basis for high hp mods for a little engine it does ok lugging around a heavy vehicle